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Riptide360 t1_jcb4o8o wrote

Should get featured in the town parade in recognition for all the hardwork Grandpa has done.

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dcheesi t1_jcb7w72 wrote

...that name again is Mr. Plow!

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Eric_the_Barbarian t1_jcbeggf wrote

Yeah, an old HiBoy will do that. One of our farm trucks is a '78 that just keeps going.

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Aster_Yellow t1_jcbwbi4 wrote

That's impressive. Plowing is pretty hard on vehicles.

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intertubeluber t1_jcc6el4 wrote

I bet your nan enjoyed taking a ride in the plow truck.

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jericho t1_jcc6znn wrote

For your driveway or commercially? Because plow trucks have a pretty short lifetime.

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A_Harmless_Fly t1_jcccj34 wrote

I can hardly see any rust, very atypical for a plow truck. Do they not use salt there?

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vim_for_life t1_jcctzrm wrote

Extended cab we're pretty rare in the day. Dunno if I love or hate that it's a plow truck.

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Poddy_Doe t1_jcd82yw wrote

Had the same truck. 79 Ford with a plow on the front. It finally let go about 6 or 7 years ago. Definitely would buy again if I could

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ArmNo210 t1_jcdcgpm wrote

I’m watching a documentary called “deadliest roads” most of the cars were made in the 50’s and they’re chugging along some intense hills.

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agoge_proof t1_jcdec9r wrote

Is that one of the snowfighter editions with the kingpin Dana 60 in the front?

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twoshovels t1_jcdgvad wrote

They don’t make them like they used to!

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KdF-wagen t1_jce2a98 wrote

Extended cap 4wd explorer, i’d give you a few grand for that if it wasn’t so far away, hell id give you a few G’s and a post 2k plow truck with a newer blizzard plow

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ChAoTiCxMiNd t1_jcf2hmv wrote

My Grandpa also has an old '79 Ford he used to plow with. He decided a few years ago to really clean it up to show quality, and damn it's purdy. Apparently they're sought after!

3

Eska2020 t1_jcf5nqc wrote

.... I'm sorry but is that car really still safe? I honestly don't know, but there is a point where we replace things for good reasons..... Like environmental pollution, human safety.......

−1

Walkop t1_jcffnbk wrote

Replying to jericho (#2,238,357)

Wash the underbodies thoroughly after every storm (EVERY storm) and change transmission fluid every single season. Change differential fluid as well. Undercoat with rust prevention each season.

The killer for transmissions is heat, because transmission fluid is killed by heat. Causes the breakdown to accelerate, which changes the hydraulic properties of the fluid. When the hydraulic properties change, you end up with a lot of problems.

Snow plowing creates a stupid amount of heat.

Change your fluids, keep on top of suspension work, and don't do stupid stuff with your truck. I'm a firm believer it'll still last a long time.

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beaushaw t1_jcfg51t wrote

Replying to nope_nic_tesla (#2,239,175)

A local dude bought a brand new Ford Bronco in 1966 and put a plow on it. He kept it in his hanger at the airport and only used to to push snow away from the doors of his hanger.

It is still in their hanger.

It has never seen salt, it has rarely gotten wet, it has something like 2500 miles on it, it was started up and moved around the hanger often enough that everything hasn't dried out and rotted and looks exactly like it did when it came off the dealer's lot in 1966.

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iotd t1_jcfi0i3 wrote

Can’t kill an old ford. Which engine is it?

There are rumours that the 4litre in-line 6 Ford used to put in their f150s were so reliable decommissioning them was a challenge. People would pour sand and sugar into the gas tank and the engine would just keep running. These engines were made by IH and generally used for farm equipment but you could get them in the pick up truck up until 96

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iotd t1_jcfjqle wrote

Replying to Eska2020 (#2,243,220)

Consider the cost and environment damage that would be caused by manufacturing a new one vs just using the same old truck. They probably only but 1000miles on it a year

1

Azkabandi t1_jcfkcg3 wrote

That's not the only thing he's been plowing since 1979 if you catch my drift....

0

winchester_mcsweet t1_jcfonls wrote

If only Ron Swanson had that plow on the front of his truck, it would have taken the damage caused by that baby crib he built.

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1millionamps t1_jcg0cjb wrote

Replying to Walkop (#2,243,788)

How do you wash the underbody in the winter? I could see going to a car wash but that’s expensive. I tried pressure washing and bringing everything inside to dry but it was a ton of work bringing the hose and everything out and super messy in the house.

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Walkop t1_jcg3ze6 wrote

Replying to grubbs120dg (#2,245,210)

Not necessarily. Before manufacturers started calling the fluid "for life" (one of the only OEM recommendations I've seen that's actually plain stupid, the fluids haven't turned magic in the last 20 years), usually there's a standard service and severe service interval for fluid changes. Usually standard is around 60,000mi (100,000km), and severe service is half this.

The misconception that arises is that severe service isn't just for towing. It includes towing, heavy loads, but also driving often in hills and in heavy traffic. Stop and go is severe service. So many commuters should be changing their fluids on a severe service interval, which is likely around 30,000, mi or 50,000 km. That's the interval I would go with if the car stated lifetime changes and didn't actually have a fluid interval.

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Walkop t1_jcg5149 wrote

Replying to 1millionamps (#2,245,154)

I wash my plow truck at a coin op. I usually pay about $8 Canadian for about 9 minutes with a sprayer, I wash off the truck, plow, salter, and then thoroughly go over the underbody. That's usually enough time to use a spray soap and a rinse, but really you only need to rinse.

If you're using it for plowing, that cost, every storm is nothing compared to the amount of money you'll save on the frame and body over time. Water isn't what causes the rust, the salt is what really accelerates it from the road. Whatever is used to melt ice. You need to get that off immediately, before it has time to set in. Especially if you have temperatures going above zero. If it stays really cold, it's not as big of a deal, but as soon as you hit the temperature where salt can work on ice, it's going to be working on your frame. The hotter it gets the worse it gets.

If you're just using it for your house and tooling around town during a storm, it's not as big of a deal, but I would still recommend rinsing it off whenever you can.

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Walkop t1_jcg5al5 wrote

Replying to 1millionamps (#2,245,154)

Thought this was worth a separate reply; you also don't necessarily need to bring the washer inside, as long as you make sure there's no residual water in the pump. So you would disconnect the water supply, and then run the pump until nothing else is coming out. It should be fine to store in the cold as long as you do that. At least, that's what I've done when I keep it in the garage. If you're concerned, I would just look that up quickly to see if it's fine to store in. Really cool temperatures as long as you drain the pump.

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Walkop t1_jchflqf wrote

Replying to grubbs120dg (#2,247,357)

It's cheap insurance. It protects the torque converter and...everything...in the transmission. Definitely recommend it.

There are a lot of different opinions on oil brands , some people say pretty much all synthetic is the same; personally, I've seen some tests with Amsoil's Signature Series ATF that won me over. They claim twice the resistance to heat breakdown vs other leading synthetics, "reserve protection" vs heat. And have ASTM testing to back it up. Basically you can run severe service at regular intervals. Third party testing and my own experience seem to line up, it's very very good fluid.

Regardless of fluid you use, make sure it's the right spec for your vehicle make, and change it at the appropriate interval, and you'll enjoy a VERY long transmission life (unless there are design flaws, like Dodge Grand Caravan for a few years, or the Ford Focus with the disaster of an automatic clutch).

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bambeenz t1_jchixdp wrote

Something something they don't make em like they used to

1