Submitted by Sargaxon t3_zrslo3 in BuyItForLife

Hey everybody,

I love to cycle, but don't know that much about bicycles (also not that familiar with the terminologies, so apologies in advance). I'm 189cm tall, looking for a bike for city and longer road trips on road, but gravel roads are not excluded. I assume I should get a Road/Cross bike?

If I understand well, front shock absorbers are also a must, and disk breaks would be a nice to have too. Seat front shock absorbers are a no-no, as it bumps up and down and changes the length to the bike pedals.

A straight handlebar would be preferred over the drop/highly curved ones.

My maximum budget is 1000eur, but ideally I'm looking for something around the 600eur mark.

Does anyone have a specific bike to recommend?

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Comments

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HairyBull t1_j14gsoz wrote

At that price range, you’re probably going to be looking at something like an entry level Trek.

For bikes, there’s really 2 things you want to be looking at, the frame and the set of components. You probably want to have the strongest and lightest frame you can afford and then the components (shifter, derailed, etc) would be the basic set. Over time as you get a better idea of how you ride you can choose to upgrade to more expensive components or not, depending on your preferences.

Disc brakes are OK, but expensive for what they are. They keep your braking power more towards the center of the wheel so when you go through streams or large puddles you keep the braking surface clean - which may not be important to you if you stick to mostly roads.

If you don’t have a lot of experience riding a bike for daily commutes or weekend fun, I’d recommend looking for a decent used bike that has most of the features you want and then after 6 months of use you’ll have a good idea of which components are important to you and which aren’t. Bikes haven’t really changed all that much in the last 50 years and sometimes you can get really good deals on a used bike.

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InternetsIsBoring t1_j14ieyy wrote

Quality Drive train components are key. Shimano deore or better (mtb) Shimano Grx 600 or better (gravel) Shimano 105 or better (road). Sram exists and makes good ones too, but I never learned their tiers.

1x (has one gear in the front). Less weight and one less part that could break.

Breaks. Disc brakes are on almost all quality and high end bikes (top teir road bikes might still have rim brakes). There are two type of disc brakes. Mechanical (wire pully) and hydraulic (mineral oil). Mineral oil may need service annually (mine have been okay for 4 years though.
Mechanical may need slight adjusting as the cable can stretch over time.

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destinationbedamned t1_j14kj4m wrote

I agree, it's pretty hard to find a really great bike for under $1000 so find a used bike that's in good shape to save money. The bikes that I see people ride for decades typically have the fewest amount of moving parts, so they tend to be fully rigid frames. That being said, of you wanted things like suspension, as long as the frame is good you can swap out parts as they wear down and keep a bike running for many years. I recently did a full overhaul on a used mountain bike where I swapped out most of the drivetrain, got new suspension forks, and had all the bearings serviced and I was able to do it for under $1000, and should keep that bike on the trails for many more years to come. As long as you avoid buying high performance parts you should be able to do everything on a budget.

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-SeaBrisket- t1_j14vpvt wrote

BIFL is probably not the best place for advice on a bicycle when there are a lot of bicycle specific subs out there that can help you out. A quality bike should be BIFL anyway, with proper maintenance and occasional replacement of worn or damaged parts.

From what you say it sounds like you have a lot of research to do because some of what you present seems to conflict with your intended usage. You don't need any shock absorbers if you're rarely leaving the road. A road bike is generally built for speed and is great for getting around but it sounds like you want to travel and if that means carrying a heavy load most modern road bikes will be unstable under weight. A straight bar might be preferable to a dropbar but that depends on usage and comfort. On a long ride dropbars offer better variety of hand positions that you can switch to for comfort. Straight bars let you sit more upright for better visibility in traffic but there's less repositioning you can do if you start to ache from being in one position.

You might check in with r/bicycletouring or r/bikepacking for advice on a bike you can travel with but that's versatile enough for your other needs. Personally I ride a heavy, steel framed touring bike (a type of road bike) that's slow as fuck around the city but serves me well on bike camping trips. You might prioritize speed a little more than I do.

You'll never regret the money you spend on a bike as long as you use it and love it. You do not need to spend a ton. Many high end expensive components are actually less rugged because they are very lightweight and built for speed.

The used market can be a great way to get on a starter bike but be wary. There are a lot of scammers and thieves who will talk a good game to someone who doesn't know entirely what they're looking for. A used bike from a reputable shop can be a safer option.

I suggest getting on a lot of bikes for test rides before making a decision. Fit and comfort are very important. I rode every touring bike in my size available to test ride within an hour of me before pulling the trigger and I'm glad I did.

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PanGalacticGarglBlst t1_j151uad wrote

I'm no expert on bikes so take my advice with a grain of salt.

I bought a single speed commuter bike with the idea that less components would mean less maintenance and a longer life. It's worked out well so far.

The single gear is low enough that only the steepest hills are an issue, sometimes you need to stand up and put some work in but it's manageable.

If you plan to bike in a reasonably flat area or are biking for fitness, consider a single speed bike. Other than adjusting brakes there's little to worry about.

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Plus1ForkOfEating t1_j158f65 wrote

I love biking, but I'm not a techhead/gear junkie. If you wanted to know specs about my bike, best I can tell you is that it's red.

That said: If you're not sure what exactly you want, buy something used. Check the euro version of Craigslist--at least in the US, there are always tons of bicycles there. Might not look pretty, but usually with an hour or two of cleaning and lubricating, they're rideable.

If you know vaguely what you want, you should go to a local bike shop. The poorly-er lit, the better. Talk to the shop guy--he's in it for fun and not for money and will get you what you need. As far as BIFL goes, the frame and handlebars should be permanent. Everything else-wheels, chain, brakes, cables--all of those are consumable parts that you'll learn to replace and repair.

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madeindex t1_j15djzh wrote

That's a bit of a tight budget for something like this. You're better off buying used. Your money will go a lot further. The problem there is that you need to know what you're looking for. As others have said, your assumptions are a little off right now. There's a bit too much to go into really. But get a touring style/hybrid bike. Talk to some local shops, particularly those that sell used bikes. There isn't a particular brand(s) to buy because you're so limited with budget. That and if you take care of the bike, even if it's dirt cheap it should still last a very long time.

Happy to help you a bit more with what recommendations for type of bike if you'd like but I would have some more questions for you.

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Sargaxon OP t1_j15zkwp wrote

Thank you for the advice, much appreciated!

So what would you recommend I should be looking out for? What is must have, what is nice to have, and what should I avoid?

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Handball_fan t1_j163p0q wrote

I would look for a second hand gravel bike for your needs.

I wouldn’t discount old cyclocross bikes even the real old ones , I ride a thirty year old Alan cyclocross every day only cost me €100.00

What I’d be looking for.

GRAVEL: Scott , Specialised , Cannondale , Trek , Kona

vintage cyclocros: Alan , Wilier , Bianci , Peugeot , Motobecane , Eddy Merckx , Colnago

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hidz526 t1_j1717f2 wrote

Really great points. Upgrading components later is a great strategy. My husband is a cycler, & worked in a shop for a while. The only thing I would add, is you should get fitted (or sized for lack of a better term) for a bike. Even if you buy used, you can look for something n the size range. This is much more important than I first realized. Go to a professional cycle shop if at all possible & ask about this.

Getting a frame sized for your body & learning where the seat should be, (moved forward or back as well) will mean the difference between a comfortable, enjoyable ride & discomfort in shoulders, arms, low back, &even your hands.

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javaavril t1_j171diw wrote

Seconding this. I have a single speed that I use for commuting in NYC. I've had it over ten years, I think it was $500. With regular maintenance it's been great. It's my only bike and I easily overtake "better" bikes on the bridges. I've biked century rides on it.

A city tip for a different aspect of longevity, as I only park my bike on the street. No brand name parts, or file them off/cover with band stickers, take off all logos on the frame, spray paint it in the worst way possible, hit the finish with a chain to cultivate a decent patina.

Actively make it look like trash and no one will steal it.

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Draw98 t1_j17svv9 wrote

I live in south east Asia, I bought a Kespor Blade roughly a year ago and they're great. Im not sure about the availability in your country, but it cost me around 500usd. Quite good value as the components are mid to high end. Also, I suggest buying a 2x11 drivetrain (22 speed total, 2 front & 11 cassette on the rear) as the gear shifts are smoother and theres much more gears to select. The front fork (the air shocks) are decent, but theres always better. Generally, air forks are better+lighter than coil ones.

​

Welcome to the biking world :D

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huhherjnrehio t1_j197oib wrote

Maybe you should not go above Tiagra/105 level for road components since this is the point where reliability might get sacrificed for performance and weight reduction. The same probably applies for mtb.

You do not need shock absorbers unless you have health issues or plan to regularly ride on bumpy roads. They cost weight and money. Also carbon fork and seatpost can reduce vibration, but I have no idea about their BIFL properties.

Edited typo

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