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scrappybasket t1_ja6uyo1 wrote

I’m no plumber but I’d think it would be much easier to disconnect the water heater and tilt it sideways (after draining obviously). They’re not very hard to connect/disconnect and then you don’t need to cut a hole in your ceiling

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ShortUSA t1_ja7odoc wrote

With insufficient clearance it is my understanding that you break the old rod as you remove it and install a new segmented rod like this one... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Lightning-Rod-Original3-4-in-Hex-Plug-Aluminum-Zinc/5001418315?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--plb--ggl--LIA_PLB_209_Water-Heaters--5001418315--local--0-_-0

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FencingNerd t1_jabtjtg wrote

Breaking it isn't easy. There's a 3/16 stainless steel core rod in the middle of mine. I had to hack saw it out while it was partially out.
Not worth the effort.

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scrappybasket t1_ja8d7py wrote

I know you probably meant “rod” instead of “roof” but it’s especially funny given the context of this conversation lol

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ShortUSA t1_ja8e8x5 wrote

Thanks. You're correct, and I fixed my comment!

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Megamax_X t1_ja8hair wrote

That’s a good way to need a plumber. 90% of people should not attempt changing an aerator let alone an anode rod. Those things don’t just come out most of the time. Even if you do have clearance you should disconnect the water and gas lines just from danger of the water heater twisting when your wrenching them out. Everything on a water heater is technically easy but if you go into it thinking it’s going to be without having done it your setting yourself up for failure.

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scrappybasket t1_ja8t4pk wrote

I’m responding to someone who already plans to work on his water heater and wants to cut a hole in his ceiling to do so

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