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WealthyMarmot t1_jdr8q7d wrote

You should be able to do a continuity test between the fixture's socket and the wire. The hot will be connected to the socket base and the neutral will be connected to the threads.

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Davyjoetee OP t1_jdrafpd wrote

so connect them up turn it on pit one end on live supply and one on the socket and look for reading of zero?

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WealthyMarmot t1_jdrb3eh wrote

You don't have to connect anything. Do it with a multimeter.

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Davyjoetee OP t1_jdrc60t wrote

Oh yeah. makes sense thanks

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nsa_reddit_monitor t1_jdsebxd wrote

Many multimeters have a setting where they'll beep if you touch the two probes together (or if there's nothing but wire between them, i.e. an electrical short). Use that setting. If yours doesn't have it, use the ohms setting (Ω) instead. Tap the probes together to see what a short looks like.

Make sure the power is disconnected first or you'll brick your multimeter (or best case blow a safety fuse inside it).

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d4m1ty t1_jdrekow wrote

You mean the live wire on the chandelier fixture itself? There is no live on it. You can connect to either of the black wires on the fixture. It will flow into one and then out of the other regardless completing the circuit. If there was a polarity to the fixture, very rare but can happen, one wire will be marked differently than the other, like a red stripe on one a white stripe on the other and this will be noted in the install instructions

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Davyjoetee OP t1_jdrfam3 wrote

yeah on the chandelier. i thought there was a right and wrong way as they go to different parts of the lamp

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Diligent_Nature t1_jdrftih wrote

You were correct. The neutral should go to the threads for safety.

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nsa_reddit_monitor t1_jdsfa3s wrote

If you're not sure if it's wired right, here's a simple test: stick your finger in it. To ensure an accurate result, you'll need to compensate for geography. In the Americas: if your arm jerks around a bit and you feel funny, you did it wrong. In Europe, it's even easier. Just check if you're dead or just dead inside like usual. If you're dead, you need to swap the wires around. For India and Africa, don't bother with the test at all, there's no enforced electrical code anyways.

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NotWorthTheTimeX t1_jdrk83b wrote

Just feel the wire. Neutral wires are indicated so the neutral will have a ribbed feeling to it the hot does not. Specifically, this is the outside of the wire and will be obvious once you learn it.

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rocquepeter t1_jds0m2k wrote

Stick your tongue on the wires, only way to know for sure!!!

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Xeno_man t1_jdrspqn wrote

The neutral wire will be marked if at all. There will be a dashed line printed on it or raised bumb. Look for any differences between the two.

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86tuning t1_jdrv1bp wrote

led lamp or replaceable bulb style? if LED then connect it either way, that's why both wires are black.

if replaceable bulb socket, you'll want the threads to be neutral and the centre pin to be hot.

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Davyjoetee OP t1_jdryp2e wrote

they were screw in but the threads are encased anyway

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off_the_cuff_mandate t1_jdrfggz wrote

Polarity shouldn't really matter in this application from a functionality stand point, it would be preferable to have the neutral on the threads of the socket though so you don't get zapped changing a bulb.

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