Removing small 2x4 entry way wall in a cinder block house

Submitted by Lostscout84 t3_11ung6j in DIY

House is made of cinder blocks. There a small wall built in the entry way between the main house and an attached room to the main house, so the entry way width is roughly 10-12”. I want to remove the added framing and return the entry back to its original size.

Currently, there is 2x4 framing added to the entry wall. I believe the purpose was to narrow the entry way to add a door for more efficient heating. Underneath the 2x4 wall, there is old laminate. I assume this means framing wasn’t always there and at one point it was considered “safe” to not have this framing.

As far as I can tell, the current 2x4s aren’t bearing any weight currently and acts as framing for sheetrock. It wiggles free and the only sit on half of the door header. Additionally, the way the 2nd floor and roof line is structured, there is no additional 2nd floor cinder block or roof structure weight sitting on the corner of the entry way where the 2x4s are

Based on the old laminate flooring and fact that the 2x4 don’t seem to be baring any weight, I think this should be ok.

My concern is that the way the entry way is built. It doesn’t appear the metal header built into the cinder block wall spans the entire length. Instead, they added 2x8 framing as support for this section.

If I remove this, I will add a single 2x10 to the old entry way for adding support to the current header and for framing sheetrock.

Would this be safe to do?

Edit: There is 2x10 at both sides of the entry way which is holding up the additional 2x10 wood header spanning the entire length.

Edit #2: Based on comments below, I've decided that it's not worth the money and time to save ~5 inches of an entryway. While I agree with some that it's most likely save to remove it's a gamble id rather not make without a professionals opinion.

Thanks everyone!

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Comments

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BZ2USvets81 t1_jcoxssk wrote

Based on your description and the photos I think you would be fine removing the framing box and adding another wide stud (you mentioned 2x10). You could probably find a structural engineer who works with architects you could pay for an hour to come look and give you professional advice. IMO it would be worth the cost for the peace of mind. I've done a lot of work like that but I would not modify structural work on a living space without an engineer's input.

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Lostscout84 OP t1_jcozql5 wrote

Good advice. I might take call around and see what the going rate is for a structural engineer.

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Thud2 t1_jcpv2b6 wrote

This is the correct thing to do

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zedsmith t1_jcowzju wrote

If your lintel (metal header) doesn’t span from block to block, then your wooden post is structural, and cannot be removed without installing a longer lintel.

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Lostscout84 OP t1_jcoz914 wrote

Does it matter that there is a 2x8 at each side of the entry way which is bracing the additional 2x8 wood header spanning the entire length?

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zedsmith t1_jcozn9l wrote

If I had to guess, I’d say that the 2x8s are just there to make door installation easier for the carpenter, but without being there, I can’t guarantee that.

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Old_timey_brain t1_jcp35us wrote

Right, the lintel is off center to the door. If the opening were enlarged to the right, you'd probably get away with it.

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GhostofDan t1_jcq3r0p wrote

That is some janky construction going on there.
Do not remove anything until you get a professional in there to check it out. That blockwork seems to be supported by the "framing," but it isn't constructed appropriately, as far as I can tell from the pics.

Hire a contractor to check it out, it'll be worth the very little you will pay, and could save you a ton in repairs later.

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kwyl t1_jcowr5o wrote

Well I don't see what you mean about the metal header. I just see the wooden header and it appears to span the width of the original opening. As long as you don't plan to add a door back in the space I think it'll be okay.

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HanzG t1_jcpsov4 wrote

Looking at your last picture I see those studs were put in after the flooring, which means this house was sealed up before this short wall was installed. Also looking at the first pic if this was structural you'd see 2x8's laminated. This is drywall framing to bring down the size of the door to normal indoor specs. Something held the wall up while the flooring was being installed...

If if were mine I would put temporary jack support in the doorway (threaded type) and apply light pressure. Knock that wall out. Gently lower the support and observe the above brickwork. It should not move at all. Then I'd reframe the door with fresh 2x8's to give myself a nice nailing surface for the trim when I'm done and adding more strength to the doorway.

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skaote t1_jcqd626 wrote

I support the idea of an experienced eye seeing it in person. We bear no risk for not understanding the stress. If it's your investment and safety, I think professional assessment is money well spent.

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dadoftriplets t1_jcqhsob wrote

In picture 2, there are joists resting on top of the doorway/lintel above the doorway. If you can get a camera up there with a ladder, you may find a steel lintel hidden behind the blockwork to support whatever is on top of the joists (be it the roof or another floor of the property) If there is a steel lintel hidden and it is supported on both sides by blockwork and not just the timber studwork on the left, then you should be ok to remove the studwork to open the doorway further without needing to get someone in to fit a replacement lintel across the doorway to support the weight from above.

Regardless of whether there is a steel lintel hidden behind the blockwork, I would suggest (like others already have) you get professional eyes on the problem to give you complete peace of mind before doing anything structural to your property.

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