Contractor installed a paver stone fire pit (about 20” tall, 30” diameter) on my patio but didn’t include any air vents. Naturally, the fire won’t stay lit, and when it does it’s mostly smoke. I’m not sure how to proceed- do I drill a hole(s), try removing a couple of pavers from the bottom, or tear it out and start over? It was thrown in for free as part of a larger backyard remodel (which was otherwise great), so I can’t really demand that he fix it.. The pavers aren’t mortared but definitely have adhesive; I couldn’t remove them by hand and hesitated trying to separate for fear of chipping them. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Comments
Nigel_11 OP t1_je740oc wrote
This may be the easiest option. How would I separate the stones without cracking them? I can then just keep a block out from each side when I reassemble.
_owlstoathens_ t1_je7gkzj wrote
Can you post a pic of the fire pit?
allangee t1_je76j9i wrote
I have the same style fire pit. A quick and easy solution is to get the drum from a washing machine and sit it in the middle. They're smaller than the inside diameter of the pit (usually) and very perforated. Air gets drawn down the sides of the fire pit and into the holes.
You can also borrow a hammer drill and buy a masonry bit. Drill holes through the blocks close to the bottom of the pit.
Nigel_11 OP t1_je7dv9w wrote
I have a hammer drill so I may do the latter. How many holes around the perimeter base would I need? Probably assuming a 1/2” bit.
allangee t1_je7el4o wrote
Circumference would be about 94" -- so a dozen to 15 would be plenty. I would calculate how many I wanted and even spacing for them (one per brick, two per brick, whatever) and then drill maybe half of them, light a fire and see how it burns.
On the other hand, you can't really have too many, so you can do them all at once if you want.
I'd get a small piece of plywood so you can lay the drill on it's side and just push, instead of having to hold it up.
MollyMuncher t1_jecoyys wrote
If you’re going this route, one trick I use: start the hammer drill on drill and scuff the stone at the whole a bit, eventually switch to hammerdrill and keep your finger on the trigger as light as possible. Those two combined will increase your odds of not skipping the bit and marring the new brick
New2Suburb t1_je6rcer wrote
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are you sure you aren’t using green wood? That may explain the smoke/hard to stay lit? See if you can get your hands on wood you know has been dried and see if you have the same problem.
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could you call the installer and ask their advice? If they were kind enough to throw it in after the fact… may be able to offer some advice (especially if you make it clear you aren’t asking them to come back and fix it)
Nigel_11 OP t1_je74c6z wrote
I thought that at first but used some known dry wood with similar results. I can try to call him but unfortunately he’s hard to get a hold of and I probably won’t hear back from him until August..
New2Suburb t1_je7asj8 wrote
I got nothin for ya then :/ hope someone who’s built a fire pit or two jumps in. Good luck!
lakechapinguy t1_je7va4z wrote
Until you give the fire air it will be a smokey pit. (experience) I think the drilling of holes could be a solution. 3/4 diameter may be better. Was the installer stingy with the adhesive. You may be able to force them apart with a shim driven by a hammer. (Maybe) Do you know were the materials came from. You may be able to secure some replacements if needed.
_owlstoathens_ t1_je6waix wrote
When I’ve designed fire pits before, I typically include a 3” tall x 6” wide air vent on the very bottom on two sides, I typically choose the least visible. This allows for proper airflow and drainage if there’s not any built into the pit.
Depending on construction you may be able to remove or cut a single stone out of its just the concrete paver style material. If there’s cmu and firebrick it may get a little tricky.
Also be careful bc sometimes materials can ‘pop’ under heat.