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No_Football_6143 t1_itsz06h wrote

Reply to comment by PernPorson in Water Heater Suddenly Only Produces Warm Water by PernPorson

Well the good ones have a life expectancy of about 8-12 years. My last gas water heater lasted right at 9 years before I had to replace.

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PernPorson OP t1_itszoc1 wrote

😔 we were hoping to get a little more time with it.

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Wellcraft19 t1_ittl670 wrote

I’m on year 21 and expect to get an additional ten years. All about preventative maintenance.

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Lanoir97 t1_itu7vtr wrote

What exactly do you do as preventative maintenance? Cleaning the tank and burner?

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Wellcraft19 t1_itx1eq4 wrote

Draining the bottom to empty eventual accumulation of sludge on an annual basis - and replacing the sacrificial anode (that is supposed to corrode, not your tank) as needed. "As needed' depends on your water. Can be anything from every two years to once every ten years.

The sacrificial anode is $15-$20 in most cases and relatively easy to inspect and to replace. In my case even with limited headroom above the tank, managed to pull out the old - not badly corroded one - and insert a new one. No need to empty tank, just drain it a tiny bit to ensure water does not leak out the top when anode is removed.

Still, I think that is a task that 99.99% of users never undertake, as we are taught that hot water tanks are 'install and forget' and only 'should' last 5-10 years.

I do inspect burner if via the opening, try to ensure no dust has accumulated underneath (have pets, dust occurs on basement floor). I try to keep tank clean and dust free on the outside, make sure flue and vent hood are properly connected and in good shape, etc. Same goes for the china cap and B-vent exposed to the outside elements.

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PernPorson OP t1_itt0kiu wrote

Well it appears that mine doesn't have a reset button. It's a Honeywell WT8840B1500. I read some weird stuff on Google saying I have to turn the knob to a few different positions, but that didn't do anything...

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No_Football_6143 t1_itt0u91 wrote

Sounds like an older model. May be time to replace then. It’s definitely not clogged or anything like that. If so you would have pressure problems when turning on the hot water. If you can’t afford a new one, watch a video on how to clean the sediment tank and attempt that, I should caution you that doing this on a gas system is risky if you are not well versed in this area.

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PernPorson OP t1_itt1273 wrote

I'll call a plumber out before I go that route. We're not strapped for cash, but we were saving for some other expenses.

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imnotsoho t1_itt4kfp wrote

Have you tried draining and flushing it? If the burner is running, maybe there is major sediment at the bottom not allowing heat to get to the water.

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PernPorson OP t1_itt5ah5 wrote

I'm not so certain the burner is on anymore and flushing it will be the last thing I try. That's a lot of work and I don't have the time to handle that right now.

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Sfwupvoter t1_itud3c3 wrote

You should easily be able to hear the burner turn on. If it isn’t turning on, that limits your problem areas.

If it is not turning on there is only one other thing I can think of, which is the flame sensor. Basically look at the pilot flame, there should be a metal rod in the flame. That is a sensor designed to heat up trip a signal. If that signal isn’t tripped, the system can’t run.

It is a very common issue. Super cheap part.

You can diy fix by either replacing or taking some sandpaper to it if it looks scorched. Sometimes it builds enough carbon on it to insulate it and not allow the main flame to come on. Either way 5 minutes work, maybe 15 if you really don’t know what you are doing. Does require turning off the pilot.

You should take the opportunity to flush the tank as well. That’s simply just draining the water through the hose bib at the bottom. Sediment builds up an can be an issue. Should be done once a year. Must be done with the flame off though.

Procedure to do that is turn off the incoming and outgoing shutoffs. Turn off the pilot. Open the pressure valve (weird lever thing on the overflow pipe. Make it stick straight out). Then attach a hose to the bib and lead it to a drain in the floor. Open the bib. It will take an hour or so to drain and it will pull the sediment at the bottom with it.

Once done turned on the supply to get s few more gallons in the bottom and drain that. Just to get everything out. Then close the bib and turn on the supply. Fill until a bit of water comes out the overflow and close the over pressure valve. Then give it about an hour to settle and open the shutoff connecting the system to the hot water supply.

The hour to settle is really important. Otherwise you will get bits of calcium and the like in your faucets.

This process should be done once a year in most areas with medium to hard water.

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Zed-Leppelin420 t1_ittfogy wrote

Check the dial at the bottom. I once rubbed against it and turned it way down to like warm instead of hot

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wasachrozine t1_itv6q56 wrote

If you do end up replacing, consider a heat pump water heater if you have space. Will save you money.

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Gobucks21911 t1_ittg0fv wrote

Sometimes they can just replace the control panel and not the whole unit. You could ask about that. Ours said the control panels go out before the water heater does.

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