Leaking window, mold in drywall behind peeled paint

Submitted by Christineblankie t3_ydm8a2 in DIY

At the corner of our window, behind our curtains, we discovered the paint was peeling, and behind it was this:

https://imgur.com/a/1nYPkCf

Now we’re scrambling because winter will be here any second and they won’t replace windows if it’s below -15 Celsius. So there is a decent chance it could be February or March before they can replace this window (min 6 weeks delivery time so by then it will be cold here in Alberta)

Does anyone have any advice on what our possible options are? Do we dare try to cut out the drywall there to see what the internal damage is? I’m concerned about dealing with the vapour barrier etc. Once winter hits, we shouldn’t have leaks as it will be too cold for rain. Could we apply a sealant over the mouldy drywall and deal with it when the window gets replaced? I’m just not sure how far we can go to deal with the mold, until we can replace the window and frame.

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nederson t1_itt5h1l wrote

You need to remove the mold and ideally stop the leak from the outside. Sealing from the inside is not an option

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Christineblankie OP t1_itt7nev wrote

I think the leak is from busted tracks, there is definitely a gap at the outer window (it’s an old style double slider) that we could try sealing? We just wouldn’t be able to open the windows..

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JL4575 t1_itt9jpp wrote

Check the exterior of the window carefully, on the sill, edges of the sill, and where the window meets the siding and caulk with silicone caulk. If done right, that should be a passable fix to get you through the winter. Post pictures back here if need be.

For the drywall, you should remove it and patch it with a new piece. I can’t speak to any concerns about the moisture barrier though.

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Christineblankie OP t1_itt9n42 wrote

Thanks! I will definitely check tomorrow

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uniquepassword t1_itu9xr4 wrote

Only thing I can add to caulking, be careful on the outside of the window frame when you close it (not the window part that opens and closes, the frame itself), there are usually little weep holes that allow water to drain out of the window casing and back outside. If someone installed them wrong and caulked over the holes or they're clogged the water can backup and seep back inside

https://brennancorp.com/blog/are-weep-holes-a-problem-on-replacement-windows/#:~:text=Weep%20holes%20are%20small%20openings,drain%20water%20from%20your%20windows. .

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warrant2k t1_itv1lq4 wrote

Better to have a window that temporarily doesn't open than mold in your house.

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fangelo2 t1_ittj3z3 wrote

There are drain holes in the bottom outside of some sliding windows to drain water from the bottom track. Make sure they aren’t clogged with debris.

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benjacob30 t1_ittbwt7 wrote

How do you know it’s a leak and not just condensation? If condensation then no sense replacing the windows.

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Ruinf20 t1_itu90kq wrote

I did not see anyone say anything about it but be very careful on your clean up of the Bio Growth. Seal the area with plastic paint tape and possibly a zip wall before demo. wear a resperator or mask and dispose of it all in sealed bags. It could be harmless, it could be life threatening. Always be careful with Biological growth those spores fly everywhere.

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Background-Ad-343 t1_ittu0xv wrote

Caulk around the entire exterior of the window frame, fill in any gaps between the window and siding.If you have casement/awning windows run a bead around where the window seats into the frame. Sliders same thing, run a bead around the outside of the window and track. In the case of the mold,you will have to expose more around the window because you don't know where it is leaking from and how much mold there actually is. It could be halfway up either side of the window or even started from the top for that matter.Vapor barrier and all affected insulation needs to be removed.After removing all the affected material, you then need to saturate the framing with a solution of bleach and water about 60/40,then let sit for 8 to 10 hours depending on how much mold there was.

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Badbascom t1_ittyf46 wrote

Chances are a large portion of the wall will to be removed so I would suggest just seal what you can and wait until it gets warmer.

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shanksisevil t1_itudcu1 wrote

Know if it's black mold? If so, get someone else to remove. That stuff is deadly!

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kernel_mustard t1_ituxd2n wrote

Should live in a cheap rental in the UK for a few months. You'll be used to it pretty quick 😂

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GrandMaster001 t1_itufru7 wrote

Is it a double pane window that fogs up? If so the water could be coming through the glass which means you just have to replace the glass unit, not the whole window from it leaking somewhere. Most time a window is "leaking" it's a seal failed window drawing moisture into your home.

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StillWill18 t1_itv0qle wrote

You have to remove the wall (at least until you find the end of the mold). Remediate the mold. And fix the leak. PITA to do. Probably want a contractor to ensure the leak is properly repaired.

Had a similar issue while renovating, when I first moved into my house. The contractor took care of it for no extra charge.

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sfdragonboy t1_itx3s21 wrote

Sorry to hear this. Do you think you can identify the source of the leak and simply patch from the outside for now until Spring? Why can't you semi tarp the suspect point of entry? Yes, not going to look great but I suspect you don't care at this point. Good luck!!!

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Admirable_Homework25 t1_iu5jo3q wrote

Mold killing primer if you cant afford to demolish the walls that potentially have mold

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Kinggambit90 t1_itt6iof wrote

Why 6 weeks for a window? Check the size of the window, and check home depot and lowes website for stock. If not call a much of window stores for an order, shouldn't take longer than 3 weeks. But first things first break the drywall and find the leak source.

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Christineblankie OP t1_itt7d16 wrote

It’s a double slider and it looks like the tracks are broken, we did get water in the tracks at least twice in driving rain.

Yeah, even before Covid, when we replaced the upstairs windows, it took 3 months for them to come in! We’ve contacted two window companies so far, one says February at the earliest (made locally), the other says maybe mid December (coming from out of province) but it might be too cold to install by then, otherwise maybe February or March. We can’t get anything close to that size at Home Depot, Lowes, Home Hardware etc, I tried!

That one is 68 x 42 inches (ruler shown in photo is cm) and faster quoted was $1646 plus repair, slower quoted was higher

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Kinggambit90 t1_itty41i wrote

Here in NY we have a thriving Chinese community that makes windows local. See if you can't figure out if you have something like that where you're located. They sell all material and install everything from doors to gates to counter tops. The labor may be immigrants but they're local, made to spec and good quality. Good luck

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johnnycyberpunk t1_ituv023 wrote

We had to wait 10 weeks for windows this summer.
Nothing crazy, just white vinyl double-hung.
It was almost 12 weeks for our siding to come in too.
Again, nothing crazy or custom, just a dark grey dutch lap.

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Kinggambit90 t1_itvbw07 wrote

I just replaced a bunch of windows at my dad's and my house. A regular double hung took like 2 weeks to make to spec and only cost like 435$ cash. I guess we were super lucky. Even a custom bay window took 3.5 weeks. I guess it helps when manufacturing and materials are local instead of being imported.

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tucci007 t1_itu2wqt wrote

| Once winter hits, we shouldn’t have leaks as it will be too cold for rain.

holy fuck did I have a good laugh

*"we shouldn't have leaks" ROFLMAO the heat inside your house will melt the ice and snow at the point of the leak because heat will escape out the same place water leaks in, and the melt water will leak into the house, but yeah wishful thinking will fix that for ya, don't worry about it LOL Albertans

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Avarice21 t1_itu6za8 wrote

Why won't they replace windows in the cold. What?

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