General Feedback/Getting Started Questions and Answers [Weekly Thread]

Submitted by AutoModerator t3_ybig2m in DIY

General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between.

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7

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cdulane1 t1_itnm6z8 wrote

Can anyone give me advice on how to keep a wheel free-spinning on a drive shaft.

I have machined a matched pair of wheels that will be functioning like a beveler and am using a bench grinder as the drive shaft. I have put a mounting plate on the bench grinder to hold guides for the beveler to feed bamboo into.

The problem I'm having is I am unaware how to "sandwich" the beveling wheels so that when starting the grinder, it doesn't automatically cause the wheels to tighten down on the wooden mounting plate and bind up. Because of the relatively short drive shaft of the grinder, the wooden mounting plate, and aluminum bevel wheels I do not have that much drive shaft to spare. Would fitting an axial bearing be a potential fix to allow the spinning beveler wheels to articulate freely when bound tightly to the mounting plate.

Any advice is greatly appreciated and welcomed.

​

Thanks,

2

civex t1_itrn172 wrote

Video of problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM7wKrtQRcs

Lockset in knob sometimes jams. Lock is a Schlage Primus. We have a deadbolt and knob lockset that are identical with same key operating both. The deadbolt never jams; the video shows the key in the knob refusing to turn. We've had a locksmith out twice, and he can't find any problem with the lockset and blames operator error, although the jam never happens while he's there.

In the video, my wife shows the jammed lock, then when I try it it opens fine - this has never happened before. It's always been jammed for both of us when it has jammed.

Any clues? Does the video show what we're doing wrong?

When the locksmith was out the first time, he replaced and re-aligned the strike plate, and the door closes much better. However, we're still getting jammed on occasions.

2

Astramancer_ t1_itubdfj wrote

I have no idea if it will actually help your situation or not, but I had a similar problem where sometimes I'd have to jiggle the key around to get it to turn sometimes.

I lubricated the lock and it's been fine ever since. There was some buildup or something inside the lock that was jamming it up sometimes.

You want some sort of dry lubricant and you absolutely 100% DO NOT USE WD-40. You can probably find a "lock lubricant" at a local hardware store.

Might help, might not. Worth a shot.

2

civex t1_itwa7vp wrote

I have tried WD40, so I'll get a lock lubricant, instead. Thanks.

1

AKdgaf t1_ithh28s wrote

I've got a tv mounted in my living room, and the router/modem/service connection is on the other side of the house on the same 2nd level. The WiFi is usually adequate but there's just enough signal drop between the multiple interior walls and microwave that we'll get stutters or buffering as the video drops in quality, and then another stutter as it jumps back to a higher res. Ideally I wouldve liked to have run Ethernet into my attic and drop in behind the TV, but the living room ceiling is vaulted. My first thought is to run some plenum rated cable along the HVAC to the living room and enter the wall behind some baseboard, but fishing cable along the HVAC sounds like a terrible time. My next thought is to just run some exterior conduit which would be an easier solution but also the ugliest. Last option is a mesh network/Moca/power line adapter which would probably be easiest and work well, but lacks the diy satisfaction we all love. Plus I'm just an Ethernet fan boy. Any input or advice is welcome.

1

--Ty-- t1_itjm0pq wrote

>Last option is a mesh network/Moca/power line adapter which would probably be easiest and work well, but lacks the diy satisfaction we all love

????

I don't mean to sound rude but this isn't a valid rationale.

The last option is a perfect option that solves all your problems, is easy to do, and benefits other non-wired devices as well -- Gee, lets not do it in the name of "diy satisfaction"?

It solves the problem. That's the entire point of DIY.

1

AKdgaf t1_itjt48c wrote

I hear you. A lot of my projects are DIY because I enjoy the act, I like woodworking, I like planning projects, I like learning about new things. I don't think DIY needs to solely be about solving the problem, it can also be solving the problem the way you want. Sure I could just buy a mesh network but at that point I could also just pay someone to install Ethernet drops for me.

1

jdeezy t1_itoluto wrote

I get occasional dropped internet using a power line adapter. Going to be running cable as soon as I can motivate myself to get into the crawlspace

1

gone_to_plaid t1_ithjstt wrote

I have this porch light which I have not yet had to change (we bought the house in 2019). It is super dim and I'm looking into putting brighter bulbs in it or replacing it entirely. I'm stuck at the beginning, how to I take the plate off to change out the bulbs? I do not see any screws and I don't want to just pull it off if that's not the correct way to do it. Any help would be appreciated.

1

Astramancer_ t1_iti14cw wrote

It's probably spring clips of some variety.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Lighting-Accessories-Stainless-Bathroom/dp/B0B6VWYS9R/

Basically the spring arms get put through a little slot and they want to spread out thanks to the spring. As you push the face of the light against the ceiling the springs do spread out and hold it snug. As you pull it down those little loops on the end will catch on the slot but you should have enough clearance that you can reach in and squeeze the arms together and fit everything through the slot to remove the light plate entirely and gain access to the bulb.

Try rocking it back and forth to feel if there's a pivot point. If there is it's probably where those spring clips are, there's probably only 2. If it is spring clips you should be able to just pull down with a couple of pounds of force and that'll be that.

It could also be some sort of twist lock, but probably not with a square fixture.

1

gone_to_plaid t1_itifxco wrote

Thanks! It was exactly as you described it. I was able to put in a reasonably bright lightbulb and clean many years of dirt off the inside of the glass.

1

Yourname942 t1_ithu70a wrote

I am making a platform(3/4th plywood) with 5" casters (wheels) but I want to add more stability/reduce bowing by adding a frame on the underside. However, I'm not sure which layout/design I should utilize.

Does anyone know of a good layout? Here are two options so far:

Thank you!

1

--Ty-- t1_itjls03 wrote

Google "Torsion Box" and build one out of 2x8" lumber. You'll get the height and stability you need.

1

Yourname942 t1_itky1rh wrote

Yeah that could work. So that takes care of the middle (between the plywood boards),

but I'm still not about the bottom of it. will attaching the casters directly to the bottom plywood be enough? (current setup)

1

--Ty-- t1_itl5s3y wrote

Given that your platform is so small, you'll only need one cross-menber in the center in the space of a +

1

Yourname942 t1_itlhgdm wrote

but the wheels are 2" from each corner + 1 in the middle

1

--Ty-- t1_itli15e wrote

You can add a little piece of blocking where the wheels go if you want, but a nut and bolt through just the 3/4" plywood is exceptionally strong.

1

Yourname942 t1_itmfzt8 wrote

I'm going to make the middle section (torsion box) then see if I need to add reinforcement at the bottom

1

creatus_offspring t1_itid2q5 wrote

I'm making a costume where I need to attach black musical symbols to a cape. How can I do this? What kind of glue? Should I just stitch them in? I'm thinking felt for the symbols but idk. I never do anything crafty so any advice would be appreciated :)

1

jdeezy t1_itom3lj wrote

Fabric glue, or stitches. Those are the two options. Use glue if it's a short term or a lot of area to stitch. I know people use the glue to attach patches, so choose one of those that work with felt

1

KisukesBankai t1_itiuv6y wrote

Electrical outlets on every exterior wall are leaking air, mostly through the grounding plugs. Smart me thought to caulk up inside the box where the wires come through. Now I'm reading that's a bad idea. Sealing around the box, no problem, inside the box.. problem?

  1. How important is it to remove all the caulk I just dumped in there?
  2. What are good options for sealing the outlets? I've heard of the child proof plastic plugs, but that's such a bandaid.
1

--Ty-- t1_itjlm9y wrote

You should remove the caulking.

Seal around the junction boxes with low-expansion (Window and door) expanding foam.

2

KisukesBankai t1_itjtgwq wrote

Thanks! but what about the leaking air through the socket itself (coming from the hole for the wires in the back of the box)

1

AKdgaf t1_itjy81c wrote

We use fire caulk in an industrial setting often, it seals drafts and is required to maintain a ratings on some firewalls, there is also fire rated expanding foam available. Depending on the type of gangboxes you have installed even the unused knockouts (perforated or thinned spots for cables to enter the box) could be allowing air transfer and you'd want to cover those if that's the case. You don't want to fill the box itself, it'll make future work impossible and while caulk itself is typically not conductive, the moisture before it cures is. Duck brand among others also make sealing kits for the front of outlets that you can pick up at most hardware stores or online.

2

KisukesBankai t1_itmcmxl wrote

Ah those kits still just seal around the socket, where my issue is air coming through the socket itself. Looks like I'll have to stick with baby proof style socket plugs.

1

AKdgaf t1_itmj30e wrote

While you typically would seal the outside, If you only have access to the inside of the outlet and can pull the socket out of the box you should still be able to seal most of it with fire putty.yiu can see how it's typically used in these pics: https://imgur.com/a/qKRGx0n

2

KisukesBankai t1_itmk42p wrote

That's super helpful, thanks. Yeah if it was just one I would consider going in the wall to get around outside the box but it's a bunch of outlets on various wall sections. So the fire putty is safe inside the box? Won't cause overheating or doesn't need air circulation?

1

AKdgaf t1_itmy8i4 wrote

Gotcha, if all your outlets are letting in cold air, problem is more likely to be the insulation in the walls at the sill plates, that can be a much bigger and expensive fix. Sealing the outlets will help but is still a bandaid on the larger problem of cold air entering your walls somewhere. Personally I would still seal my outlets. In my own home where I know the outlets are terminated correctly and that my gfcis and breakers work and everything was installed correctly, I would have very little worry about using the putty on the inside of the outlet box. I'd still be sure to take up as little space as possible inside the box. I would focus on sealing where the wires enter the box which should eliminate the majority of the draft.

2

KisukesBankai t1_itn8w4f wrote

Thank you. That may have to be the case as the light switches don't have an easy bandaid like the baby proof plugs. I'll look into the putty.

1

[deleted] t1_itjorhq wrote

[deleted]

1

AKdgaf t1_itjza7g wrote

Just about every home center should carry 10" wood planks. It really depends on what kind of wood you're looking for and what you'll be using it for. Right now the closest home Depot to me has a couple of different grades of 2x10 in douglas fir and they would happily cut it to 46" for you, but like 2x4s 2x10s are actually smaller than their advertised, I think a 10" board is really 9.5" the grade of wood at big box stores is generally not well suited for anything but construction. If you're looking for something exactly the dimensions you need or a different type of wood I would Google around for a lumber supplier near you, they typically have all kinds of wood and can cut it to your specific dimensions. In my experience, if you want something nicer than construction lumber you should find a lumber supply company.

1

ItsIllak t1_itkgv2q wrote

Hi, I have a space that's unused in a wardrobe room above a rail and I've decided a simple shelf would be great for storage. It's about the right size to fit six (two rows of three) of the standard "33cm cube" inserts you find in places like Ikea. Overall measurements are 102cm x 87cm and a height of 49cm.

But, I'm unsure of the best way to construct it to avoid any future warping from the load. Ideally I'd like as little material as possible so nothing is getting in the way or looking bad. I'd like to assume that anything up to as heavy as books could get stored in these cubes.

My initial, unskilled, design idea is to simply fix batons to the three sides and sit a shelf made from tongue and groove cladding on top of that (screwed down). That should mean that some of the load in the front middle (which would be otherwise unsupported) would go back to the rear baton as well as the two sides. Is that enough for 14.5mm thick panels?

A second option is to add cube separators, at least at the front. I can fit 2x1cm thick planks, screw from under the front and again, fix them to the roof using batons?

Alternatively are there any better "standard way" of building a shelf of this size?

1

WinterHill t1_itkrz0s wrote

What is the name of the type of window construction they use in big storefronts and sun rooms? Each pane is separated by aliminum molding and holds a huge glass pane.

Example: https://i.imgur.com/sikxU78.jpg

I have a screen porch that has floor to ceiling screens, and I want to turn it into a 4 season sun room with floor to ceiling windows.

1

HARR15N1PE5 t1_itkw3zz wrote

Hi, i have painted a wall with a very heavy (stain coating) oil-based paint. And im curious as to the proper way to remove it.

It has come out like acne.

I left it for a couple of days to dry and have just tried sanding it, with an orbital sander.

Trouble is that the paint is gumming up on the sand paper and immediately rendering it useless.

Is there an easy way to remove oil-based paint? Im guessing to use spirits?

1

Guygan t1_itkyh6r wrote

What is the wall made of?

2

HARR15N1PE5 t1_itkzoan wrote

Its a plastered stud wall.

I used stain coat because someone painted acrylic in the wrong colour

1

Guygan t1_itkzuj5 wrote

I don’t understand what’s on your wall. Stain on a plaster wall? Makes no sense.

1

HARR15N1PE5 t1_itlhdo7 wrote

It isn’t wood stain. It’s a particularly thick oil based paint used to cover up stained walls. Typically used to hid damp patches and blemishes

1

Guygan t1_itlrji8 wrote

You literally just called it a “stain coat”.

1

danauns t1_itlbkkt wrote

You've made a massive mistake, if you've applied wood stain on a painted drywall wall.

There is unlikely to be any sort of meaningful fix, short of ripping it out and putting up new drywall.

1

HARR15N1PE5 t1_itlh7vm wrote

Its not wood stain. It’s oil based paint to cover up stains in the wall

1

Delvog t1_itluakz wrote

If it's bubbling under the new paint where the stain was that you're trying to cover, then it sounds like that "stain" is a water leak still having more water added, not just an old stain. If so, you need to NOT just try to cover it with paint; you need get behind the drywall and deal with whatever the water is coming from.

1

throwaway_nfinity t1_itl34br wrote

I made an L shaped counter top and I'm going to use a round over bit on the edges. Is there anything special I need to keep in mind when doing the corners and inside corners while using the bit?

1

htownsoundclown t1_itl695z wrote

Hi all, how could I mount this item to a wall leaving 1-2 inches of space? I'm going to put LED strips on the back for some ambience lighting, so it will need some breathing room.

https://i.imgur.com/lR7AF0d.jpg

1

Astramancer_ t1_itl7c5s wrote

Standoffs. There's lots of different kinds.

Probably the easiest is to slice a small chunk of 2x4 off the end of a board and stick it between that thing and the wall when you're mounting it.

But it's all the same in the end, a rigid piece of something that goes between the wall the thing and the mounting screw goes through it.

1

htownsoundclown t1_itl8o14 wrote

I’ll look into that, thank you!

1

danauns t1_itlbaon wrote

Have you ever hung a tv mount? These come with all kinds of hardware so that no matter the wall material you've got a hardware to hang it.

Those hardware packs also come with all kinds of standoffs. Usually black plastic disks that would be ideal for this use case.

1

htownsoundclown t1_itlsf8m wrote

I used to hoard all of that hardware but I think I turned over a new leaf and started throwing it away. I’ll have to dig around and see if I have anything.

1

COW_MEOW t1_itlbdmg wrote

House was built in 1994, ive been here for 6 years. Doing a small bathroom remodel. I put a double sink in where there was a single sink in place- Noticed I started getting a gargling from the sink drain, which was not present before; happens when I run both the sinks and the bath. Doing research, it looks like it can be caused by a clogged vent; however, I do not see a vent for my sink.

​

  1. Is the gargling potentially caused because by the double sink? Odd that this popped up now and not before.

  2. What does adding a vent look like? Looks like it is a major task

1

Astramancer_ t1_itnhlad wrote

>Is the gargling potentially caused because by the double sink

Yes. Perhaps installing it knocked some crap loose inside the vent stack and clogged it.

>What does adding a vent look like? Looks like it is a major task

It's either relatively easy or very much not a DIY thing if you have to ask the question.

First things first, when you took out the sink in the first place was there something that looked like this? https://imgur.com/NYtQ9NS A weird vertical column topped by something with a little clearance under the counter as possible.

That's an "air admittance valve" -- you need to check with your local government because they're not to code everywhere. It's probably to code, especially if there was one there before, but it might not. Best to check. Basically, it's a one-way valve that lets air in but not out. It lets you drain properly without letting sewage gasses into the room.

If there wasn't something like that then you 100% do have a vent already. Somewhere on your roof you have one or more of these: https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3r2S.jpg That's the vent. Your drain pipes inside the wall will have a T-junction, one side going straight up to vent through the roof and the other side going down to the sewer/septic. If you have to install one yourself... that's the "very much not DIY territory." You'll have to open up the walls, penetrate your roof and properly seal it to keep water from leaking in, you have to get code inspections done. Sure, it's possible to do it DIY, but it's not really plausible unless you already do that sort of thing for a living.

1

Witty_Restaurant4339 t1_itlvq1p wrote

Asbestos tile in my laundry room with huge chunks missing out of the ground. I’m told by the contractor that did asbestos testing in my house that the tile is safe and has not been disturbed. From what I’ve seen online it’s relatively safe in its current state but I would like ideas for going over it with an epoxy mix to hide the gross looking floor. Any suggestions on what I could do?

1

Razkal719 t1_itndo0d wrote

As long as you don't attack the tile with a grinder it's safe. You can coat the floor with self leveling compound and then put down LVP or ceramic tile or sheet vinyl.

1

amanda_pandemonium t1_itmcrt6 wrote

We started tearing out our backsplash tile (metal tiles) and I was wondering, can we apply thinset over this? We'd like to use the backsplash that comes on a mesh sheet. https://imgur.com/ul3Gkmb.jpg

1

Razkal719 t1_itnd8vn wrote

After you've removed the tile, cut or scrape any hanging bits of paper off. Then paint the paper and any exposed areas of drywall core with PVA primer. Then you can use thinset. Although for backsplashes I prefer to use mastic, you can apply it with an 1/8" V groove trowel and avoid it pushing through the grout lines on the mosaic tiles. Also the OmniGrip brand is very sticky and so holds the individual small tiles better than thinset.

2

amanda_pandemonium t1_itnzw3r wrote

Thank you! I wasn't sure how to prep this but having it professionally redone isn't in the budget this year.

1

SaveThatM0ney t1_itno9oe wrote

Is there any videos or instructions how to do square columns for homes?

1

ElevatedTreeMan t1_itods71 wrote

I'm looking for, preferably, a battery powered, motion-activated LED strip that will go inside a cabinet. The goal is for it to turn on when the door opens and shut off when it closes. Anyone know of any products that fit this? If it's not battery powered, I can probably make it work with a cord. Thanks in advance

1

jdeezy t1_itomjv5 wrote

Battery lighting always seems to be frustrating. I don't use it much, but when I want to use it, I have to replace the battery. Recommend wiring if you can.

2

ElevatedTreeMan t1_itppz47 wrote

Good point. I've seen a few people say this so I'll probably go with this. Thank you!

1

caddis789 t1_itp6j53 wrote

If you search "battery light with motion sensor for cabinet", you get quite a few choices.

1

Blueblackzinc t1_ittwx5u wrote

Why not just complete the circuit like the fridge light?

1

ElevatedTreeMan t1_ituaaz9 wrote

I want it to be more on the discreet side. I thought about doing it like that, but there's a product on Amazon I'm going to try out

1

wnmn68 t1_itojzcp wrote

I have 2 butcher block counter tops that I use daily in my office space. I coated them in water based triple thick poly, but it is soft and has started to wear away on the edges where my wrists sit.

I want to recoat with a natural/matte finish. What is my best option for coating these in something protective/scratch resistant?

1

jdeezy t1_itolltl wrote

Can I bend a self closing hinge? I'm having a problem with the latch catching, and the hinges are out of whack. There's an extra 1/2 inch of gap on one side of the top of the door, and the top hinge looks misaligned. However, there are self closing hinges on the top and bottom hinge.

Is there a way to bend a self closing hinge? Or am I better off replacing with a normal hinge, or trying shims or longer screws in door frame?

1

caddis789 t1_itp6bfi wrote

Figure out what's wrong first. Is the door warped? Is everything square and plumb? Are the hinges placed right? Bending a hinge is rarely the best answer. A couple of pictures might help.

1

jdeezy t1_itqiah2 wrote

Pretty sure I know what's going on. Inserting a shim into the bottom of the door near the hinge pushes the door out and there's a good latch. I don't notice any warping of the frame.

1

SwedenNotSwitzerland t1_itpeje9 wrote

Hi I am going to build my own wending-machine and I have been looking at different DC motors all night long but Im not getting anywhere.

My build need just one motor but it must be fairly strong. How strong exaxtly I dont know I will just have to guess. I will controll the machine with a rasberry Pi. In thinking of using this motor:

https://www.amazon.se/5840-31zy-Kraftfull-vridmoment-hastighet-product/dp/B0BJ7ZKN8J/ref=mp_s_a_1_31?keywords=dc%2Bmotor%2Bworm%2Bgear&qid=1666692772&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjAzIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-31&th=1&psc=1

Would this be a good option? I dont need a motor with an encoder as my vending machine does not have to be very precise. What would be a good driver for this motor? I need the Machine to be turned on 24/7, so It would be good if the driver has a stand by mode where it draws close to zero power when the motor is not activated.

thanks!

1

emote_control t1_itq2nem wrote

My house is 70 years old and the main shutoff valve for the water is leaky, so I'd like to add a new valve. It's regular 1/2" copper, which I'm usually comfortable working with, but the problem is that since the valve is leaky, I don't know if I can keep the pipe dry long enough to solder in a new valve downstream of it. I don't know if I want to use a sharkbite fitting for such an important location, since they seem to be unreliable in the long run. Copper compression fittings seem like the ideal solution here, but require an expensive power tool I don't have and which the hardware stores don't seem to rent out.

Am I missing an option here? Do I need to pay someone to come in and crimp a valve into place?

1

Blueblackzinc t1_ittwoea wrote

How do I fix an anchor when it keeps going out? Here's a pic

It is flushed after I tighten the nut but when I do pull up, it goes out. It's not like the hole is massively bigger than the anchor. I was barely able to push it in. I can't even pull it out without using a tool. I don't think the anchor would pull completely out but doesn't give me much confidence looking at it.

Also, every time the anchor got pulled out, the nut loosen itself.

1

Yourname942 t1_itukoqr wrote

  1. How would you make this chair 15" taller? https://imgur.com/a/u2FA8io
  2. would you put something between the top of the chair base and the bottom of the chair seat?
  3. How would you design the base?
  4. What would the dimensions/materials be?
  5. Would you remove the casters and attach the chair base (star looking object) directly to the base you create?
    1. If so, how would you attach it, as the casters have a stem that looks like this?

Thank you!

1

Threaderedcones t1_itv3ha4 wrote

I’ve been thinking of making a moving picture frame for my partner this Christmas like the ones seen in Harry Potter. There are plenty of resources only about how to make the frame of the picture but nothing about how to run videos on loop, what software to use to do this or what options are available already. Any help or guidance will very much be appreciated!

1

ST3AM3D_HAMS t1_itvjqqx wrote

Need some general guidance on this wainscoting/wall paneling. Is it just plywood/MDF in 3 different widths stacked together? What would be the ideal thickness of each step?

Any tips or things I should think about that I may not have considered?

https://i.imgur.com/u7SVDxV.jpg

1

Josh_Crook t1_itwpy5m wrote

pretty much, but not really different widths, you're just wasting a ton of material if you do it that way. you want the side-view to be more like this

2

DishesSeanConnery t1_itvuh25 wrote

Hey everyone, we're looking to buy a cheap wooden shed for bike storage. It's 1830mm wide x 750mm deep x 1450mm high.

The space is our off street parking spot.

Over the 1830mm length, there's about 140mm drop.(4-5 degree angle) And over the 750mm deep it would be about 40mm droo.

It can't be anything permanent. But we're stuck on a way to level the shed.

The shed has no floor, it's open on the ground inside to allow water to drain out.

Any ideas on how to level this shed on the concrete?

All of the feet/shims etc I find that look somewhat suitable aren't big enough.

I'm in the UK.

1

chopsuwe t1_iuc40v3 wrote

Use some wood to make a ring foundation. The shed bolts to the wood, the wood can be trimmed to level the shed.

1

Josh_Crook t1_itw1gy1 wrote

How do I get birds out of a wall?

Some birds built a nest in a block wall where it had began crumbling over a window. I want to seal it up and repair it, but I don't want to accidentally trap any inside.

Any ideas to flush em out? I can't see the nest

1

Adult_Dill_Harris t1_itw1iuv wrote

Just wondering about the possibilities. Bored and broke, have a few TRS cables lying around and wanting to solder.

Was wondering if I opened up my ancient fostex reference monitors RM 780’s if I could wire in a female 1/4 jack for use with a guitar amplifier. Or could I cut a trs cable and use those ends? Thanks.

1

TgfmAklc t1_itw9xa6 wrote

How do I fix the toilet paper holder on dry wall? It has fallen off and not able to screw back in without dropping. Would this work?

wall Archor

1

halil75 t1_itww28y wrote

I want to get started on a “floating” room divider. https://i.imgur.com/4RifxOq.jpg like this here. But it has to be strong enough to mount a small TV on it. Where do i get started? What mounting system do i use?

1

Guygan t1_itwwo6r wrote

Rather than posting a Pinterest link that not everyone will be able to see, please take a screen shot and link to a simple image on Imgur.com.

1

halil75 t1_itwx518 wrote

Done, thanks for pointing it out

2

wolfie259 t1_itxh08q wrote

I can’t find the studs on my wall. Trying to mount a TV and I feel like fucking stupid!

I have a zircon studfinder which has worked well in the past…. Currently not flagging studs consistently on this wall. Took the sockets out to see where the studs were, tapped to confirm. So far I’ve drilled 8 pilot holes and I don’t think a single one is in the studs.

Is it possible the studs are 36” apart? I think it might be lath and plaster but I’m not sure. Could I mount a relatively heavy tv and bracket using anchors into lath and plaster?

Or should I just give up at this point?

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cfc_sub t1_itz8kwh wrote

36" by any code is not allowed. Are you sure they are stud walls and not dot and dabbed? dot and dab walls will sound hollow as well. I typically shove a screwdriver in the hole and scrape around.

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wolfie259 t1_itz9r2d wrote

It’s a supporting wall with a door and 2 outlets. On the other side is a staircase, so I assumed it had studs. I tried checking for nails in the baseboards but it’s hard to see since the baseboards are a natural finish.

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orionox t1_itz2ozs wrote

want to run some audio cable along a popcorn ceiling, any suggestions on how to do this?

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cfc_sub t1_itz8d4h wrote

What floor is this on? If it's in the downstairs, then running caving around the room is a good way to hide cables in the void. Or, if you have an attic above the floor you're running it on, you could drill into that space and then run it in there.

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K8a4eR t1_itztcsr wrote

Some paint chipped above the door of the cupboard under the stairs, and when I pulled it back there was loads of fine black sand that came out of the hole. Does anyone know what this might be?

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GentlemanSch t1_iu0c2f4 wrote

What is the name of this hardware?

You insert one end into the wood with the other end sliding into a wooden panel

Also, what other hardware should I get to complete the mount? Any tips on "how to's" for creating the holes in the wood myself?

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Astramancer_ t1_iu1uvba wrote

It's called a "cam lock" -- something like this https://www.amazon.com/Eccentric-Furniture-Connecter-11-8mm，12-12-2mm，12/dp/B09WN26Z41/

Biggest tip for making the holes yourself? Make a jig. A piece of L-Shaped wood with the holes pre-drilled and your drill bits pre-marked so you don't drill in too deep (or better yet, depth stops).

It'll probably take a few tries on some scrap wood to get the spacing and depth exactly right, but once you do the jig will let you get it perfect every time.

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IpccpI t1_iu1s4vx wrote

Can anyone advise me here? I sanded my primer down to get a smooth surface for topcoat. Unfortunately even with 320 grit I went through a few places, not like 100% down to bare wood but probably 80%.

So I feel like the white paint will hide after 2 coats, in more concerned about adhesion and long term durability. Several of the edges sanded through as shown in one of the pics. These are cabinet doors and the primer is kilz oil based low odor formula. Frame is poplar and panel is birch.

I killed myself sanding all these down by hand and not mentally prepared for another coat and sanding but if that’s what it takes….

https://imgur.com/a/6T4CtW5

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fatherofraptors t1_iu9glqp wrote

You don't need to sand the primer down smooth, you really just need to sand it a little bit to actually roughen it up so the topcoat adheres better.

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chopsuwe t1_iuc3l3t wrote

That's not problem at all, the primer soaks a little way into the wood.

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RealCanadianDragon t1_iu200hy wrote

Anyone know how to raise a wooden playset?

https://media-www.canadiantire.ca/product/seasonal-gardening/backyard-fun/backyard-amusement/0840045/kidkraft-brightside-play-center-31a6fc00-30e6-47e0-9abb-f0baff1fa3c8.png

Best way I can describe it, the part behind/under the slide in that picture has sunk into the dirt in the yard, so the play structure is obviously uneven.

It's obviously too heavy to try lifting it up and wedging something like bricks/stone blocks underneath to support it. Not even sure the condition of the wood that's in the dirt.

Any way to jack it up or do anything to raise that part of the play structure to be able to even it out again?

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chopsuwe t1_iuc3h09 wrote

Get a big 4x4 post of at least 2 meters long to use as a lever. Stick one end under the swing set and with a block of wood as close as possible to act as a pivot.

100kg of human bouncing on a 2 meter long lever is 2 tonnes of force. That's more than enough to lift a car, it'll be plenty for a swing set.

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RealCanadianDragon t1_iud866e wrote

So I'd probably have to dig underneath the side of the swingset that dug into the ground?

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philsphan26 t1_iu23gl7 wrote

I Want to restain/paint a small fence and gate. I recently did repairs to. My question is:

The pickets/areas that were stained before - should I power wash or sand before restaining? Any recommendations for a stain? Pic is below

https://imgur.com/a/DvP9MnM

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philsphan26 t1_iu29py6 wrote

When is it time to replace windows? I have a window that has condensation between the 2 panes. Can’t I just have this repaired by taking the sash out? A window company near me does this for $80-90 per sash. Or should I just have the whole window replaced ? Thanks

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chopsuwe t1_iuc329t wrote

If it's double glazed you'll need to have the unit replaced.

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Yourname942 t1_iu2aok0 wrote

  1. How would you make this chair 15" taller? https://imgur.com/a/u2FA8io
  2. Would you put something between the top of the chair base and the bottom of the chair seat?
  3. How would you design the base?
  4. What would the dimensions/materials be?
  5. Would you remove the casters and attach the chair base (star looking object) directly to the base you create?
  6. If so, how would you attach it, as the casters have a stem that looks like this?
  7. Is there a chair that already exists where:
    1. you can lean back
    2. it has a headrest
    3. it has foot supports for when you are sitting upright
    4. is 15" taller than a standard office chair? Thank you.

Thank you!

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SwingNinja t1_iu5c4ec wrote

Try "counter height office chair" on amazon. The chair base material needs to be stronger (i.e. more metal). The extra height would sway the chair a lot when you sit on it and crack the plastic base.

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Yourname942 t1_iu6nd4z wrote

That might work! I'll have to look into that. Are you referring to the material from a counter height office chair, or the one I have at the moment (which is a type of plastic)

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caddis789 t1_iu3kcgt wrote

That isn't something you can reasonably DIY, IMO. Raising the center of gravity that much would be hard to compensate for. It would need a lot of weight in the bottom, and need to be much wider to keep you from tipping over. I don't know how much, or how wide. An engineer could probably figure it out, it would take ma a lot of trial and error. I don't know of an existing chair that fits those requirements.

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venomouse t1_iu2hv2t wrote

Issues with painters tape / tape in general

This on on Perspex / acrylic. The tape sticks fine to the acrylic but when trying to stick to itself it curls off / doesn’t stick. (The base tape still holds on the acrylic without issue)

I tried frog tape, pvc tape and generic tape. All had the same issue. Originally I made a square border, then covered the middle in newspaper and taped it within the square. But since that started lifting I ended up taping directly.

Project is done and dusted but interested in why this would occur? It is a little humid in my area at the moment..is it as simple as that?

Example images

https://imgur.com/a/ghtVQsL

Cheers V

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chopsuwe t1_iuc2zes wrote

All the grime and sweat on your greebly little mitts clogs up the sticky tape. Go wash your hands.

Joking aside, that's the reason.

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venomouse t1_iuc8jqw wrote

Dang. Next you’ll tell me I have to wear pants! Cheers. Figured it would be the humidity. Hands were clean.

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y_mo t1_iu2iea7 wrote

Hello! I wanted to do a not so complicated closet for my nursery. IKEA pax system seems to be perpetually sold out and impossible to get. What are your next best go tos?

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BiblicalNuisance t1_iu47g32 wrote

[BRAINSTORMING]

Hello everybody,

I am renting a flat which has a window in my room that gives into a corridor, I think the link bellow should work if you need to see :

https://imgur.com/gallery/bG2r3WK

When people go through the corridor and turn on the light, it lights up my whole room... Very bothersome to sleep.

This window serves litteraly no purpose, it gives no exterior light nor do I ever open it. I am in need of a way to block the light that might be a bit more original than curtains while still being renting-friendly.

I was thinking of sticking some book pages on it but I have no idea how to do this without damaging the glass... Do you have any ideas, tutorials to do that or do you have any other cool ideas?

Thanks !

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caddis789 t1_iu85pid wrote

How about putting a large picture over it? You could fashion a frame that would cut off light pretty effectively.

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whiskeyjane45 t1_iu492uw wrote

We had a tree fall over and I want my husband to cut me a slice out that's as tall as a cinder block (what I currently use) to use as a meditation stool for my garden. It will stay outside. How can I make it weatherproof? I've polyurethaned some outdoor flower boxes and it wears away and the wood rots. How can I make this solid so I can put in some work, but then never have to touch it again and leave it outside

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CuteCatBoy69 t1_iu7qe3w wrote

I would probably coat it in resin. That should completely seal and preserve it.

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cwagdev t1_iu605jd wrote

I’m working on moving some outlets and found about 7 buried junction boxes with live wires behind cabinetry/drywall. Our house is only ~9 years old. Is this something that should be reported to someone?

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Scared-Cheesecake-50 t1_iu6ahy8 wrote

If I wanted to not hurt my hands trying to tighten tension rope between point A to B, what tool can I use?

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Astramancer_ t1_iu97m1b wrote

I'm a big fan of Stick. Wrap the loose end around a big fat stick and hold onto the stick instead of the rope.

Mechanical advantage also works great. Let's you tension a heck of a lot more without putting as much hurt on your hands.

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Thechunkylover53 t1_iu6te9z wrote

Hello, Recently owned first home and winter is coming lol. I have 2 hose connects. One by the sprinkler system and one all alone. The sprinkler system people blew out the sprinkler system and shut off water to that side. On the other side I cannot find a shut off. I checked outside and in. I followed what I believe are the pipes all the way to the wall they go out and I don't see any cutoffs and it actually eventually joins with main pipes. Do some faucets not have cut offs? It's a 2016 home so I figured it would. There is an overflow cap thing on spigot head. Thanks!!

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Astramancer_ t1_iu6uihp wrote

Some might, some might not. Probably depends on local code.

The "overflow cap" might just be a backflow preventer (so you don't accidentally suck gross hosewater into your house's water supply), but it's probably part of a frost-proof hose bib.

If there's a hose attached unhook it. Now run the water for a bit, it only needs long enough to get a full stream. Now turn it off as fast as you can. If the water stops running the moment you close the valve then you need to take further action to winterize it. If the water keeps running for a second after the valve is fully closed then congrats! You have a frost-proof hose bib. The water empties out of the outside bit and you have a significantly reduced risk of freezing.

As long as it doesn't get too cold and for too long, you can get one of those styrofoam insulation covers for your spigot, even if you don't have a frost-proof one. Otherwise ask your neighbors and see what precautions they take.

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LessWeakness t1_iu97ebg wrote

Images

I'm trying to renovate the front yard, and I'd like to recolor the curbing while I'm doing the porch and columns.

The landscaping curbing on the property may 10+ years old. I am pretty sure the concrete was dyed during the install. It looks like it is faded in some areas. Someone may have already painted it in the past because it looks like it matches the color of the front porch. What type of product options do I have for a project like this? What are the pros/cons?

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QXPZ t1_iub78q8 wrote

Bought leg press machine for gym. The metal safety stoppers rotate out of the way using a handle to perform the movement and then rotate back in when you’re done with a set. So the problem is that when I’m done with a set, the metal leg press part with all the weight slams onto on these metal stoppers. It can be hard to bring the weight down slowly with tired legs. What can I put here to absorb some force? I have plenty of rubber horse stall mats but not sure the best way to attach (glue?). I also found a little rubber piece from a clamp that I would like to know the name of, because if I could find a bigger one, it looks like it would slide right onto that metal stopper piece.

https://i.imgur.com/gQiadSX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AeVv3Yl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/E6DEXaa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ajoVIxG.jpg

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caddis789 t1_iucl29b wrote

I'd probably start with spray adhesive. You could also get self adhesive cork. My guess is that anything you do will need to be replaced from time to time from usage.

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Chaoss780 t1_iubh1dz wrote

New house, I figured I need a new filter for my furnace for the change in seasons and went into the utility room to find the size I need. When I opened the filter drawer, the airflow on the filter installed was pointing left. Here is a picture of the furnace. Shouldn't the filter arrow be pointing to the right instead?

Also, and this is likely an equally dumb question, I have no idea where the filter for my AC unit is located. Is it possible the filter for the furnace also filters the air from my AC unit outside?

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Astramancer_ t1_iubm904 wrote

So the filter is in that short brown box between the furnace and the duct that goes all the way to the floor?

It probably should be pointed left. It goes like this: Air Return/Intake -> filter -> furnace with blower -> ductwork to individual rooms. You typically do not have filters on the output, only the intake. The duct that goes all the way down to the ground is almost certainly the return air duct. The arrow on the filter is the direction of air flow.

Easy way to tell is when the furnace is running (or you manually set it to fan-only mode) you open up the tray, take out the filter, and stick your hand in there. You'll be able to feel the air flow. You need the filter both for air quality reasons and to protect the blower from grit in all the wrong places, but running it for a minute or two without the filter won't cause a problem.

It is entirely plausible, nay, likely you have a combo furnace + cooling that uses the same air handler. If that's the case then you'd only have the one filter since it would use the same intake either way. See that black-wrapped pipe about 4/5ths of the way up and the copper pipe about 1/2 way up? Those are probably refrigerant lines for cooling. Easy way to tell is to set your thermostat in such a way that the AC turns on. Now check that furnace to see if the blower is on. If it is then there ya go.

Your AC unit almost certainly does not pull in outside air. The outdoor unit condenses the refrigerant and cools it off with the radiator-like structure and giant fan. That liquid refrigerant gets pumped to the indoor unit where it boils through expansion (thus cooling down) inside another radiator-like structure and the air handler blows air through the very cold radiator, thus cooling your house. Household units, even window units, typically do not bring in outside air.

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Chaoss780 t1_iubxbsi wrote

Thanks! Answered all my questions perfectly.

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Justpickone2 t1_iud5g3b wrote

Hi My water heater broke down. Plumber refused to put in the replacement cause the base was slanting and it wouldn’t stand up to inspection.

base pics

I opened up the two nailed ply boards on top. They had mold spores between them from leaking water. Some wood was lightly moldy, nails were corroded. The middle wood was split by a nail and broke.

Should I clean and replace this myself, I got no prior experience, or leave this to a handyman?

Any suggestions for diy Wall repair and building the frame back?

A side wall has a hole on one now where some black mold can be seen. I am concerned if there could be more mold behind either of the side walls. 😕

I am confident to nail some wood and cut plywood together but is there any thing to watch out for? I can measure and heard from someone that Home Depot can cut the 2*4 as instructed.

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krazynarfer t1_iud76ah wrote

I have an extra large laminate desktop that I'm wondering if I can convert into a dining table. I have never done any DIY projects, but I'm eager to learn, so any advice about my approach is appreciated!

I have this wooden laminate desktop:

https://www.upliftdesk.com/greenguard-laminate-desktops-by-uplift-desk/

Specs:

  • Fused melamine laminate over 45lb density E1 particle board
  • 80"x30"
  • 1" thick
  • 65lbs total

My plan

Concerns

  • The table likely wont have that much on it at once, but I'm wondering if only supporting the corners for such a large table could cause warping over time.
  • Do I need some sort of center support for a table of this dimension or are the 4 hairpin legs enough?

​

Any advice/help is greatly appreciated!

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