General Feedback/Getting Started Questions and Answers [Weekly Thread]

Submitted by AutoModerator t3_y5hj63 in DIY

General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between.

Rules

  • Absolutely NO sexual or inappropriate posts, SFW posts ONLY.
  • As a reminder, sexual or inappropriate comments will almost always result in an immediate ban from /r/DIY.
  • All non-Imgur links will be considered on a post-by-post basis.
  • This is a judgement-free zone. We all had to start somewhere. Be civil.

A new thread gets created every Sunday.

##/r/DIY has a Discord channel! Come hang out or use our "help requests" channel. Click here to join!

Click here to view previous Weekly Threads

3

Comments

You must log in or register to comment.

Osz1984 t1_isphwn1 wrote

My wife got this cheap beat up china cabinet I sanded down the finish on and painted with Behr 7120 Acrylic Cabinet and Trim paint. Do I need to put a clear coat to protect it from chipping/scratches? If so what kind should I use? I tried a spray can of polyurethane that was oil based and made a yellow tint where it was sprayed. I'm assuming I should use a water based but I want to make sure.

2

--Ty-- t1_isvivqt wrote

There's no inherent need to clearcoat if you've used a cabinet and trim paint, but you can do it if you want extra protection. Water-based coatings will not have the amber tint you experience from the oil-based coatings.

3

Osz1984 t1_isy39f4 wrote

Thank you for the reply. I'll be putting the clear coat on Friday. I want to use it because the finish of just the paint seems like it may be difficult to clean later.

1

--Ty-- t1_isyfsfc wrote

Fair enough. Remember to give your cabinets a full SEVEN DAYS for the paint to cure before you start using it, or you risk scratching / chipping the paint.

1

Osz1984 t1_isypjfv wrote

Good to know. It would be ready now but after putting the oil based clear coat I had to paint over that to get rid of the yellow tint. Now the top layer isn't as smooth as it was before. So I need to do one coat paint, then wait and seal. ugh!

1

--Ty-- t1_isyvoi0 wrote

In the future, it would be better to just sand off the oil paint, rather than cover it. Water paint and oil paint don't layer well, unless the oil paint is given time to fully fully cure first.

1

Osz1984 t1_isyztzi wrote

It was a real think later of the spray I put on and did wait about 10 days to paint over it.

1

Careless-Mycologist9 t1_ispj5yd wrote

Hey there! Anyone have any advice on how to get started building a three tiered outdoor potting table? I’m trying to surprise my partner with an outdoor potting for their plants and want to make it three tiers with some cool features like hooks for tools, organizers for their pot sizes, things like that. How do I even begin? 😅 Thank you!

2

Astramancer_ t1_ispmme5 wrote

A good base to start with is a "2x4 workbench" -- a very (very very excessively very) strong workbench that can be made using just 2x4s, a circular saw, and a drill. They're very simple to make with zero experience and minimal tools. They're also incredibly heavy so you pretty much want to build them in place.

Just google "2x4 workbench" and you'll find plenty of different examples and sets of instructions.

Should be pretty easy to modify to be the kind of three-tiered potting table you want.

You'll also need to seal whatever you make to protect it from the weather, if it's going to be outside.

3

Careless-Mycologist9 t1_isppwhx wrote

Love this advice! Thank you! Any suggestions on a good type of wood to build it out of?

1

Astramancer_ t1_ispr0t1 wrote

Cedar is probably your most accessible option for woods resistant to rot, but it doesn't really matter as long as you pay attention to it and slap on a fresh coat of poly (or whatever you end up using) every once in a while. pine construction dimensional lumber is probably going to be the cheapest option.

Big thing is probably the feet, you don't want them resting directly on the ground or even cement if you live in a wet area. It'll make it a lot harder for water to seep into the wood and rot it. It's not really wet that damages wood but prolonged wet. Getting rained on occasionally won't do much for a long time, but sitting on dirt wicking up water day in and day out will rot the leg in a year.

2

Careless-Mycologist9 t1_isum68s wrote

What would you suggest for a gravel yard? We have a gravel yard and no grass plus we live in Texas so it’s hot and dry.

1

faldineaccount t1_isklop2 wrote

Apologize if this is a dumb question.

I’m trying to replace a wall switch to a smart switch. If I turn the breaker off that turns off the bulb will it cut off electricity in the switch as well? Common sense, I think it should, just making sure I don’t shock myself since I don’t have any voltage tester

1

glitterybugs t1_islkvx6 wrote

I have had so many painters and general contractors out and none of them have been reliable. I’m to the point where I am thinking I’ll have to do my home improvement projects myself. Trouble is, I have very little knowledge. Really a noob. Where should I start to learn about home improvement? The project itself is a bad wallpaper job that needs to be removed and painted but at this point I just need to know where does someone even get started learning how to do these things themselves?

1

--Ty-- t1_ismcf6p wrote

>Where should I start to learn about home improvement?

This question gets asked a lot here, and unfortunately, it's far too broad of a question to answer with anything useful, other than "Start by learning anywhere you can, be that books, TV shows, Youtube, or real people. Whichever modes of learning you prefer and have access to."

It's much easier for us to make recommendations of content-creators for specifics trades or skills you might be interested in, or for a specific project you want to tackle.

I can't point you in the direction of good wallpaper removal videos, but in terms of painting the walls once you're ready, This Old House has lots of great beginner-friendly painting videos on Youtube.

5

Razkal719 t1_islz2mo wrote

In a previous millennium I'd say your local library, but today just go to YouTube. Search for removing wallpaper. If it's a big room I recommend renting a steamer for small jobs the spray works ok. Then search for vids on painting, but not Bob Ross vids.

3

nakedUndrClothes t1_ismuo3g wrote

I need help getting started on this kitchen redo. I can do carpentery, and painting but will need to hire electricians, plumbers and potentially stone masons. For this kitchen, I would like to accomplish the following while using most of the existing things:

  1. Workspace on both sides of the stove.
  2. Ability to open the fridge more than 90 degrees
  3. An island.

I’m having hard time coming up with the simplest layout that will help me get the three things. I considered closing the hallway door to the kitchen and moving the peninsula there. But then the fridge will have to be moved too far. I’m considering moving the stove further towards the top wall, and swapping it with one set of cabinets. I’m just confused and am having analysis paralysis. Pictures here: https://files.fm/u/hh7vx7z9m

1

scirocco_flowers t1_isoymzc wrote

Any suggestions on what to do with this AC drain area that’s been growing moss all summer? AC drain onto concrete on the shady side of the house

1

--Ty-- t1_isviyyl wrote

Add tubing at the correct pitch to carry / divert the water downhill.

1

scirocco_flowers t1_isw0lm2 wrote

What is the correct pitch? The outlet is only a few inches off the ground and it’s flat cement all around. I was thinking I could run pipe to the nearest downspout maybe? It’s about ten feet away and I assume there’s a bit of a grade from there to drain somewhere though it doesn’t look like it.

1

--Ty-- t1_isw2d2u wrote

1/8 of an inch per foot is a standard minimum grade for patios and stonework, and also happens to be the minimum grade for AC condensate lines (use 3/4" tubing at a minimum)

If you're able to achieve that kind of a drop across however far you need to go, then great.

2

scirocco_flowers t1_isw39jy wrote

Awesome, thanks for the info!

1

--Ty-- t1_isw3qy7 wrote

Don't be afraid to go steeper if you are able to. 1/4" per foot is what's recommended for stonework and patios and the drainage line, 1/8th is just the minimum.

2

yokoyamajeff t1_ispqww2 wrote

We are trying to make a Halloween costume for my daughter and I need to cut out the bottom of a large plastic candy bowl for it. Bowl isn't that thick and/or durable...it was like $5 at Walmart. Do you have any recommendations on tools to accomplish this? Also a way to possibly sand down the edges?

Thank you for your help

1

--Ty-- t1_isvipcr wrote

If the bowl is cheap enough, a sharp kitchen knife will do the trick. Otherwise, a utility knife, jigsaw, hacksaw blade, etc.

1

thunder185 t1_ispre92 wrote

Where can I get metal posts made of light material (similiar to what they make fire pits out of - what do they make fire pits out of?)?

Thanks!

1

SaltyPitman t1_isqeocz wrote

Looking for ways to lock this door from the outside. Probably not going to be able to remove the doggy door. Any advice would be appreciated!

https://imgur.com/a/DOZVp2B

1

SwingNinja t1_isvfg2y wrote

You need to install sliding patio door lock. Need some work to install. You can also try sliding door ratchet lock. People usually use this to lock display cases at stores. But I don't think it'll fit.

1

ST3AM3D_HAMS t1_ist2gq0 wrote

Hi everyone.

I have 2 faucets outside but I can't find a shut off (the basement is all drywalled).

  1. How do I locate the water line so I can add shut off before the winter?

  2. Should I install a valve closer to the faucet or the location of the valve doesn't really matter ?

Thanks

1

Razkal719 t1_isvnhz0 wrote

Are they faucets or just sillcocks or spigots? Are they made to connect to a hose or is there actually a faucet and sink with separate hot and cold and a drain?

A standard sillcock, spigot or hosebib is generally a "freeze proof" which means it extends into the house usually 12 to 20 inches and closes the water flow there. This prevents frozen pipes and valves. Be sure to disconnect any hoses so the spigot can drain, newer modes will have an air break. You can also get a removable styrofoam cover to insulate them from the outside cold.

2

ST3AM3D_HAMS t1_it0e5ub wrote

I had to google those. I either have a hose Bibb or a spigot (I can't really tell the difference between the 2).

I guess I can't really tell if I have a frost free hose Bibb unless I open up the drywall and see if it extends into the house.

1

Razkal719 t1_it0nmd0 wrote

Can you post a picture? This is what a frost proof sill cock looks like.

Note that the handle is in a straight line with the shaft of the unit. There is a straight rod from the handle to the valve at the back. If your handle is at an angle then it's likely not a frost proof.

1

--Ty-- t1_isvihlz wrote

You sure there's no access panel hidden somewhere that reveals the valve? The basement finishers would have to be phenomenally stupid to cover something like that without providing an access panel.

1

ST3AM3D_HAMS t1_it0cgl6 wrote

I'm sure. There no access panels in the drywall, nor any valves in the furnace room where the main waterline splits off

1

--Ty-- t1_it0gjsn wrote

Damn. Well, in terms of figuring out which line leads to the spigot, and only the spigot, I have no idea how that would be possible without removing drywall to get a look.

r/Plumbing may know of some more advanced techniques to sound the line.

1

lilac_blaire t1_istk9fp wrote

I’m not sure if this is the right place for this, but I don’t know where else to look or what to attempt to research (if someone could even give me some search terms that would be cool, or a different sub to ask this).

We keep our French door open a couple of inches for the cats to go in and out to the patio all day. In the wintertime, this obviously makes the room cold and drives up our electric bill.

Is there anything I can use to cover the gap between the doors (and at the top) and leave a cat-sized hole at the bottom?

This is what it looks like

Considerations:

-We rent, so we can’t make any permanent alterations

-I’ve tried covering the whole of the doors with a curtain, but it’s the only natural light in the living area

-it would have to be somewhat removable so we can close the doors

Happy to provide more photos or additional info. Thank you!

1

--Ty-- t1_isvidec wrote

If you can't make any alterations to the doors, then there's not much you can do.

A board of wood that somehow fills that space between the door and its frame, with a little cat-flap at the bottom would cut out 95% of the air flow, but I can't see how the board would be kept in place without screws or some other kind of permanent affixation.

1

lilac_blaire t1_iswhwt6 wrote

Thank you! I figured it might be a long shot, but worth asking.

1

Difficult_Arm_5609 t1_istnyps wrote

What is the best way to cut into a wood kitchen wall panel to enlarge an appliance cut out? We need to replace a non-functioning under the counter oven. Store will be doing the actual oven un/install, but we need to prep the spot so that they can essentially pull the old one out and slip the new one in.

I need an additional 1/2" height for the new cutout. The piece that needs to be cut is a plank of solid wood, probably 3/4" thick.

I'm hoping there is a method that doesn't involve totally uninstalling the old oven ourselves. It looks like there is a bit of a space between the top of the old oven and the bottom of the plank. Could I perhaps insert a tool to begin cutting from there? If I use a Japanese hand saw, what would be the best way to get the cut started?

And FWIW We don't have any heavy duty power tools, but don't mind investing in something we could use more than once, as folks who have occasional home repairs.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

1

SwingNinja t1_isvetm0 wrote

Maybe try oscillating tool, assuming you have space there to work with one. If there's any Harbor Freight near you, you can get one around 20-30 USD.

2

Razkal719 t1_isvl6kp wrote

As SwingNinja said an oscillating tool is good, but if the wood is oak it may struggle to make the cut. It'll cut through pine easily enough, but for hard wood a circular saw will cut straighter. Although you'll want to stop short of the end of the cabinet and finish the cut with a hand saw or skill/saber saw. If your in a tight location because of the counter, you may want a compact circular saw like a Rockwell Versacut.

2

Difficult_Arm_5609 t1_isxyuju wrote

Thank you both so much! An oscillating tool and a circular saw both seem affordable, and this project now seems very doable this weekend. Thank you thank you!

1

patton66 t1_istvqdf wrote

Hey all, looking for some advice on patching up these 2 small holes in our garage next to the door. We just moved up to New England, its about to get cold, and we want to get everything set up before the season comes. I've also posted this into r/homeimprovement and just looking for some help as I am a real novice with these things

I've looked a few other resources that mentioned basic foam insulation, simply covering it with a piece of wood, and just looking for some more advice before I actually take any action.

https://imgur.com/a/IejdDVD

I am not a very good photographer, but then, these are not very exciting pictures.

Both of them are about 4" long by .5" wide, certainly not anything too extreme, but as a first time homeowner I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. Any advice on what to do, or more importantly what Not to do would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

1

[deleted] t1_isugzs9 wrote

[removed]

1

Guygan t1_isv0trl wrote

Removed.

Amazon links aren’t allowed.

Re-post with a picture of what you’re asking about.

1

ptatlazarus t1_isvn380 wrote

First time DIYer. I want to change my cabinet doors in the kitchen to newer ones. The cabinets I have are framed cabinets with center Stiles in all the larger sized cabinets. I was wondering if it's possible to remove the center Stiles and then just get full overlay doors to cover that gap which would be left by the stile removal. I'm seeing so many YouTube tutorials that teach how to remove stile and then attach it to the door which imo looks ugly. Plus I've been thinking of changing the cabinet doors for a while just wondering if it's possible to do it or will it mess up the cabinets permanently.

I'm going with this video to measure for the door widths and heights but just want to make sure I can remove the stile before I start with the doors.

how to measure cabinet doors

1

--Ty-- t1_it4u15b wrote

No, you cannot remove the rails and stiles to achieve flat panel doors. This is fundamental to how panel-style construction works. You will need new flat doors.

1

bikesiowa t1_isvptv4 wrote

How close can I mount a drop tile ceiling to the beams above it? We have basement ceiling that already has low clearance and want to do something like drop tile on it.

1

miniika t1_isycs33 wrote

Neighbors were cutting their weeds stirring up dust this morning. No problem, except I can smell the dust in my house. The AC hasn't been on at all today and all doors and windows have been closed the entire time.

My house (brick) has always been very dusty, no matter how much I clean it and I've had a lot of allergy problems. I assumed it was due to my HVAC system, but apparently not. There aren't any obvious holes or cracks in the roof or walls or around doors or windows.

How is dust getting in? Can I stop it?

1

--Ty-- t1_it4tmf1 wrote

The average home exchanges the entire volume of its air with the outdoors once every 30 minutes to once every 3 hours, depending on how its built.

In ultra high-end sealed homes, that rate may be as little as once every 20-30 hours.

It's just a matter of air leakage. No home is airtight.

1

lelechan t1_isyfoyv wrote

How hard is it to install a replacement kitchen faucet for a person with little to no DIY experience?

Context: My in-laws are out of town and I am house-sitting. Their kitchen faucet leaks at the faucet head and they have purchased a replacement, but have not called in a plumber to install it and my FIL is typically a "call a professional instead of doing it myself" kind of person. If I can, I'd love to install it this week while they're gone as a surprise to them.

I haven't opened up the box yet, but the outside of the packaging says that the only necessary tools/outside items are water supply hoses and an adjustable wrench. I assume I can use the existing water supply lines since they aren't leaking. (Although I might see about picking up some plumber's tape at Walmart just in case.)

If it helps, the faucet they purchased is a Pfister Glenfield model F-036-4GFY, #338937.

1

Astramancer_ t1_iszrzkj wrote

Provided that the hole count in the sink itself match up, super easy.

You don't need thread tape. The way that kind of supply line works is there's a little rubber washer sitting inside the connector and when you tighten it down it squashes down on the pipe and forms a seal. The threads don't have to be sealed since they have nothing to do with holding in water.

It's all pretty simple and straight forward.

3

lelechan t1_it01kgs wrote

The hole count does match up, so I just might be able to make this work! Thanks!

1

James-Bowery t1_it1neeo wrote

Bought a lock for a cabinet but it doesn’t quite fit in the door. If I clear just a little bit of material from the wooden door, it’ll fit.

What tool do I need to do this?

Photos on Imgur

1

--Ty-- t1_it4s95p wrote

It looks like the hole is too narrow. That's easy to fix with a Forstner bit and a guide block made of scrap wood.

It also looks like the guide pins are in a different location than the original. That is harder. You can easily drill new holes, but at that point you'll be seriously waking the door. Fill the old holes with epoxy.

1

Nevyn522 t1_it1qzyw wrote

Today I discovered the concept of "over travel" or "over extension" drawer sliders, and it may resolve a design problem lingering for months.

However, this far I've found a maximum of 1.5" of overextension, and I need more like 5"-6" (I mean, 10" would be even easier for me...).

Is there either some manufacturer of drawer slides I should specifically look at? Something similar that would have further extension to consider?

Thanks!

1

capt_avocado t1_it1xgpo wrote

Hello everyone. Can someone recommend me a glue for plastic on plastic use? Specifically I want to glue a plastic handle on a light ball which is made out of polyethelene but I can’t find any glue that work on it.

Cheers!!

1

--Ty-- t1_it4ryr8 wrote

Polyurethane glue or E6000

Sand and prep the surfaces if at all possible.

1

NotEnoughIT t1_it2hzc1 wrote

I am hoping this solution is over engineered.

I want to put my full rack in my loft on the 2nd floor. I will have it as close to the exterior wall as I can.

The joists run length ways perpendicular from the wall. I am going to build a platform using two 4x8x3/4 sheets of plywood. I will use 20 slats, 2x2, running perpendicular to the joists (parallel to the wall) to spread the weight. They will be 4” apart with two joining the middle.

The weight will be upwards of 500lbs including me near the center of the platform.

Code says that the floor needs to support at least 40lbs per square foot. I know I’m not getting full distribution, but it’s gonna be 64sqft to distribute the weight over.

I gotta imagine this will be good enough? I do not slam weights.

Any thoughts?

Here's a few pictures of the proposed design: https://imgur.com/a/VWHNiGN

1

--Ty-- t1_it4rwv8 wrote

Can three people stand in your room shoulder-to-shoulder? Cause that's about 540 lbs right there. Four people would be 720 lbs.

You should be fine, but in the future, use 2x4s. 2x2s have almost no rigidity (and therefore very little weight distribution)

1

NotEnoughIT t1_it505ex wrote

I can still use 2x4s. Should I put them flat or vertical? Vertical I’d assume? Then I just may throw some in horizontally to prevent slippage. I went with 2x2s to make sure it couldn’t shift.

1

--Ty-- t1_it51ic2 wrote

Vertically for load distribution. Vertically but going the other direction (as blocking) for stability and torsional strength.

1

NotEnoughIT t1_it5bspc wrote

Thanks. I’ll add some blocking. Makes perfect sense.

1

Superb-Novel-9921 t1_it2v8qm wrote

Not sure if this is the place to post this. How would I install a 2x2 within this window frame? I’m hoping to install a floating shelf and more with it. The outer sides are brick so I don’t know if I can use like a pocket hole jig if that’s the best way. I’m honestly clueless so all help is appreciated

1

--Ty-- t1_it4rjzm wrote

Do not attach anything to the windows. You can place a board across the gap with supports on either side of the side jambs

1

NoDoz_ t1_it2vvxf wrote

I want to stabilize this drawer without losing any of the interior space or going beyond the original width. My thought would be to build “up” but not sure how to approach that. Thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks

1

--Ty-- t1_it4rdxp wrote

All you need is a diagonal metal bracket going from the drawer front to the sides near the back. You'll have to fashion it yourself out of some metal, though.

1

stonecats t1_it4m1bc wrote

just venting my frustration. every method to strip decades of latex paint (not sure what else is mixed in under there) off my old 1" thick plaster walls has failed, so i'm just going to skim coat everything - fuk it. just bummed such a common problem has no reliable solution (trust me, i've tried them all... pastes, sprays, deglazer, peel paper, googone, krudcutter, citrus. heat gun, steam, scrapers). someone told me i should blame it on OSHA because your grandfather's toxic paint removers were a lot more effective than all the "safe and natural" stuff they sell now...

1

GeekJorge t1_it4vl4c wrote

I’m setting up a new coax cable for internet since there isn’t an outlet for one in the current house I’m at. I understand how to put the wire in the wall the only problem is where would I instal it in this electrical panel if anyone can give me advice on where I would make the connection it would be very helpful thank you.

1

Astramancer_ t1_it4zild wrote

You probably wouldn't install it anywhere in that electrical panel. It's usually a good idea to keep low voltage away from high voltage - if for nothing else, than to minimize RF interference that will degrade your signal.

Get a separate outdoor junction box and mount it to the wall. Then you can pass the cable through the wall there.

2

GeekJorge t1_it55lfv wrote

So what I understand is that the coax cable will not connect to anything in this electrical panel.

So that means I don’t have a current signal to internet anywhere in the house then dang.

1

Worglorglestein t1_it6klko wrote

We have a decent amount of moisture in the basement, and aside from dehumidifiers, I was debating about other potential ways to filter/cleanse the air:

  • First, I was thinking about adding a UV light somewhere on the furnace. Problem is, I'm not sure where the best place to put it would be! I've been reading some sources that suggest pointing it at the evaporator coil, but since I'm actually more concerned with filtering heated air, I'm not sure. Any suggestions? What about pointing it directly at the intake filter?

  • I'm also debating adding a layer of activated carbon to the intake filter. Think this would help with mold/cats/etc.? By adding an additional layer to the filter, should I be worried about reducing the amount of air output by the furnace?

Thanks!

1

Astramancer_ t1_it88sjr wrote

UV takes too long to really do anything to the air (like 5+ minutes depending on the volume of the space), unless you have some absurdly overpowered lighting going on. I'm guessing that you're finding suggestions to point at the evaporator coil to keep junk from growing on the coil (which gets wet thanks to condensation) and thus contaminating the air, rather than trying to kill any bacteria in the air.

>I'm also debating adding a layer of activated carbon to the intake filter.

You'd be better served buying a higher quality filter, perhaps one that already has activated carbon built in. Putting the carbon on yourself probably won't help as much as you'd hope as the carbon will clog up the pores it settles on and then the air that gets through will go through other pores, avoiding the carbon. Sure, it might help some, but a higher quality filter will help more.

1

Onepopcornman t1_it860mb wrote

I'm a complete noob.

I just inherited some wood (probably ikea) bar carts that the prior owner has gotten pretty gross

For someone who knows nothing about nothing, and doesn't know is way around any DIY anything.

Does it seems reasonable for me to just sand that top of that cart down to get rid of the stains? I guess I need to then finish them in some capacity?

Thanks!!

1

AKdgaf t1_itafjzj wrote

That's what I would do. I'm not sure how thick the wood is, but I would start with a 80 grit sandpaper across the whole top. Depending on how deep those stains are, you might need to take off a decent amount to remove anything visible and you wouldn't want to have a low spot. You could do this by hand with some sandpaper sheets and a sanding block (or a 2x4 chunk), but a random orbital sander would be my tool of choice. I've seen them as low as 35$ at a big box store.

Once I got all the stain sanded away I would give it a wipe down with some bleach mixed with water (max one cup bleach to one gallon water). Then I'd move to 120 grit sandpaper then 220, which would be plenty smooth for me on a bar cart, but you could go higher. I would finish the top with a nice food safe wax or oil, like tung oil or beeswax, they're easy to apply, and maintain. If you plan on placing hot things on the cart I'd avoid the wax though.

1

anally_ExpressUrself t1_it8azmt wrote

I'm running LED wiring for -stair lights. I have a cable with 2 18-gauge wires, and I am planning to have the cable run the length of the stairs, with T connections for each tread.

What kind of crimp / attachment strategy should I use to attach the wires? I was hoping for something cleaner than tons of wire nuts.

1

AKdgaf t1_itaduym wrote

I think you would be well served with some solderless t tap connectors. I've used them for similar low voltage wiring and theyre a breeze to use vs wire nuts.

1

canadave_nyc t1_it8ylu3 wrote

I have a 65-square-foot bathroom and I'm replacing the current bathroom fan. I'm looking at getting a Panasonic model that has a switch between 80 CFM and 110 CFM. I know the rule of thumb is "1 CFM per square foot", so 80 CFM would technically be "more than enough", but is there any harm in setting it to 110 CFM (other than slightly increased energy costs and maybe a little extra noise)? It wouldn't have to run as long that way, right? And would be faster to clear out, say, the bathroom mirror after a hot shower?

1

Atty_for_hire t1_it95m1e wrote

Has anyone had to deal with pests under a deck? I found two dead squirrels under a ground level deck. I have no idea what killed them or why they choose my deck to die under. The smell was atrocious and as long as I have some board up, I’d like to try and solve the problem. Any thoughts? And what should I do, barring removal of the ground level deck?

1

Exia_91 t1_ita58n9 wrote

Porch Light Mystery

Just bought a new house two months ago. Porch light originally worked no problem. After changing the bulb, the fixture began to flicker. Then, after a week or so, the fixture died.

I recently rewired the switch panel inside. It used to have some old school dial timer that I’ve never seen before. That dial did have a power light above it, which also died.

Multimeter says I have a perfect 120V to the switch. When I test the wires outside, the best I get is like 80V when I test with one lead on the hot and one lead on the ground.

I did noticed that the box and old fixture had a ton of loose material inside and clearly had some moisture. Cleaned it all out, cut off corroded part of wiring, wired up a new fixture, no joy.

Nuts are on tight, no problems at the switch.

What am I doing wrong?

1

AKdgaf t1_itags62 wrote

My guess would be corrosion further along the lines leading away from the fixture that wasn't visible. Corrosion will 100% cause voltage drop in a line. If it were me, I would get some new cable, use the old cable to pull the new cable through and wire that up. Worst case scenario it still doesn't work but you know you've got nice non corroded wiring and eliminated another variable.

2

Drkpwn t1_itaiuyw wrote

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to build a 5 ft tall wired fence with 4x4 post on top of my existing wooden retaining wall, which is 4ft high, 6inch wooden base.

What type of post anchor should I use to anchor my 5ft 4x4 on top of the 6inch base (I will put the new 4x4 on top of the supporting 6x6 of the wall)

Any ideas?

Thanks!

1

Renrut23 t1_itcgdlv wrote

I have a plywood top work bench, looking for something I can do to the top of it to make it more durable. Something that will last but also be a smooth surface to work on

1

imakebread t1_itdhu14 wrote

I am looking to hook a small motor up to a manual crank knitting machine. Any suggestions or advice on how to best drive it with a small motor?

Could i just purchase a gear that fits directly to the drive on the motor and drive the crank linearly? Then add a power supply (18v drill batteries), shutoff switch, and possibly a potentiometer to control speed?

I would like to 3D print an enclosure for everything as well once i decide how to go about this. I have already 3d printed a part with a 3/8" driver that goes around the hand crank and allows a portable drill to turn it.

All ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance!

1

kayybavv t1_itdshgm wrote

Hi whats the best way to hang something from the ceiling in a rental apartment? I obviously do not want to cause a lot of damage but would also like to hang stuff...

​

I do not have power tools, so was thinking of screwing in a hook screw by hand-has anyone done this before?

1

wellingtongee t1_itekbno wrote

Help. I can’t get a broken screw out from my ranch slider. Pics attached. https://imgur.com/a/SBuSBHj/ . I’ve tried a screw extractor but it didn’t work. This is seeming like a professional job…

1

RichardIraVos t1_itetmbv wrote

Wanting put in some tile in my bathroom Supposed to have 5/8" plywood with 1/2" tile backer over that.

Question is do floor boards count as that layer of plywood? Just the boards that run along the joists. My father is telling me yes, its fine, I really want to believe that, but I don't think thats right. Anyone know if that would be fine or not? Only for 20 sqft of tile

1

vardonir t1_itft44e wrote

any recs on how to mount 3 monitors? i dont want a monitor arm on my table because it wobbles too much. i'd rather not drill too many holes into the wall because the place is a rental

i was thinking mounting metal pegboards and then attaching the arms on the pegboards, but it might be too heavy. each monitor is about 2-3kg, i'd say, standard 21" stuff.

1

luthoralleycat t1_itg5o99 wrote

I am an outdoor adventure guide by profession. My guiding season is from Spring until Fall, as I am a paddling guide and instructor mostly. I need to figure out how to keep myself sane in the off season, while also making a bit of cash so I am not completely reliant on my partner during these months. I was wondering if anybody could tell me what they find is the easiest DIY type work to get into, and to turn into a "side hustle".

Quick notes about me: I am fairly manual, so do a lot of my own work on my car (brake maintenance, oil changes, etc), grew up doing some wood working with my dad, but also know a lot about quilting, cross stitch, embroidering, etc. via my grandma. I have always been intrigued by leather crafting, but have never done anything related to it.

Any advice / ideas about what type of DIY work I can start working on and honing to keep myself sane and make a bit of money? Something that doesn't cost a fortune to get into?

1

LaggyZombie t1_itgfp9s wrote

Hi all,

I'm making an outdoor structure using pine wood. It's a small load bearing unit that will be used on a balcony. As I'm in the UK, it's going to be exposed to the elements a bit and so it needs to be waterproofed. I intend to leave it out on the balcony all year round so don't want to have to do may touch ups.

Basically all I need to know is what can I use to get a dark brown colour on the pine, but with a waterproof coating. I don't want any rot in a load bearing structure... any recommendations for a product or group of products available in the UK? I've looked into varnishes, enamels, stains etc but seemingly found conflicting information

1