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dr_xenon t1_iu3p9ms wrote

How long is the rod and how much force are you putting on it?

If it’s not too long, you could use a drill hooked up to a foot switch. Chuck the rod into the drill, spin it and remove as needed.

If it’s longer and you’re putting more force on it you could add a stand to the end that has a half bushing like a follower on a lathe.

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Brotaoski t1_iu3pene wrote

Replying to dr_xenon (#279,751)

my 1/2 rod is 1ft and my 3/8 rod is 2ft I dont need a lot of force just enough for me to coil the cable tightly as it spins using the foot pedal to determine the speed.

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dr_xenon t1_iu3sism wrote

Replying to Brotaoski (#279,774)

There are some variable speed foot switches on Amazon. You’d need to try them with your drill to make sure they’re compatible. Or get a variable speed drill and set the trigger to desired speed and blip the foot pedal to go slow at first then pick up speed.

At that length you may need support on the end. Since it’s not high force or long run time you could probably get away with a block of wood with a half-round notch.

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Hot-Mongoose7052 t1_iu43zg2 wrote

Sewing machines already have variable foot pedals. Jury rig one off the shaft inside it.

Or buy a pedal off Amazon and use it on a drill, lathe, etc.

Or, use your car. Seriously. Jack up the drive wheel, Mount a flange to the hub and have someone lightly tap the gas.

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Immathrowie t1_iu44br5 wrote

I remember a while back coming across a guy that converted a bench vise to use a foot pedal.
Don't remember off hand whether it was a DIY or a YouTube video.
It was a simple clean build if you can locate it.
Might get you started.

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BJMcBaconTits t1_iu45bcg wrote

If you're building a whole jig for this, you could fix a pillow block to the motor end of the jig and then have a sliding or adjustable pillow block mounted on a piece of dovetailed wood or aluminum. All you'd need is a couple of toggle clamps to latch it in place. That way you could slide the rod into the fixed pillow block, slide the adjustable one over the end of the rod, and clamp it in place. Once you were done winding, just unclamp the block and remove it from the rod, allowing the whole rod or just the wire to be removed. For the smaller rod, use an 1/8" adapter sleeve to pair it up with the bearing ID on the motor end, and build a second adjustable block with a smaller bearing ID so you can easily remove the wire from the rod after you're done without pushing it over a sleeve and potentially messing up your coil. Point to note: make sure the center points of the bearings are at the same height from the mounting surface, or it'll get weird real fast when you start winding.

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squigster037 t1_iu4ecu2 wrote

Sounds like you want to make a tool that exists: a Di-Acro?

RE sewing machine motor:
Old sewing machines had external 1amp (1/16hp) motors that drove the machine via belt.
You can buy the whole assembly: Motor + foot pedal
https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Motor-Bestsew-RM100N/dp/B07NDHZFY3

Then you just need to make a belt-driven jig for the rest of it. Or multiple jigs.

signed: a sewing machine tinkerer.

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jsnytblk t1_iu4ghcj wrote

are you making chain maille rings and tempering them?

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crzymazy t1_iu4kp68 wrote

This would be perfect. Just adapt the rod. You can make ramp and speed profiles for this, just no variable speed on foot pedal directly.

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7ate9or9ate7 t1_iu6u9jm wrote

Watch some Red Green shows. Maybe he did one of these

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