How should I solve this misalignment on my wainscoting?

Submitted by ctrlaltd1337 t3_ygttu7 in DIY

https://imgur.com/a/enH3xkI

All was going well on my first "big" project, but I measured something incorrectly along the way, and now I'm trying to solve it. My first angle (first pic in the album) makes sense to me, as inside of the top rail would eventually "align" if their paths continued on. But on the second angle, as you can see, the inside of the top rail would never "align."

Some thoughts I've had were to taper the entire board a tiny bit to make it align, but that might be a PITA and not look nice. Second thought was to take off the vertical slat and slide it right, and cut the angled top rail straight down, but then it wouldn't line up with the horizontal top rail. I've looked at it for too long so I'm looking for some ideas from the internet.

I've still got filler, sanding, caulking, etc, to go, I'll be adding some hardboard in each panel, and some cove on top of that to blend everything in nicely as well. I've seen some examples online that have just left it as I have it now or did the weirdly shaped angled panels, but that wasn't my cup of tea.

All ideas welcome, thanks!

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twohedwlf t1_iuagh4o wrote

I'd just trim off the little triangle bit that goes down too far and call it good.

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ctrlaltd1337 OP t1_iuahetn wrote

Yeah that's another idea I had, but I didn't want that "weird shape" in the panel. I could cut off the triangle and move the vertical slat over though...

Both ideas here: https://imgur.com/a/ZBnWlP0

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twohedwlf t1_iuahr7a wrote

Yeah, moving it over would work.

I wouldn't bother, by the time I've gotten as far as you have so far I'm well past the "Fuckit, I just want to be done" stage.

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SpagNMeatball t1_iub3340 wrote

Anytime you have a miter joint, you need to have each part cut at half of the total angle. If you don’t, then you get your situation. You should have carried over the horizontal rail and mitered it properly. If it was me, I would just cut the little triangle off and move on with my life.

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SheepGoesBaaaa t1_iubai65 wrote

It took me forever to figure out what your problem was from the photo. The bit you want to fix is fine and you don't notice it. Any time you get mitres involved something looks off.

The bit that caught my eye is at the top landing. Top and bottom are off. You did be able to translate a piece from the top to the bottom if you trim flat across

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Cpt-Xmas t1_iuafjcq wrote

That already looks filled and finished for the most part so taking it off would be a bit of a chore.

You could dry fit a couple small filler pieces to hide the gap. One straight across, one on an angle back toward the vertical. Pick one you like and fill it I as best you can?

At the end of the project you might not see it that much once it's all finished. You notice more of it now cause you just noticed it. Hard to say from just a picture

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No_Carpet7125 t1_iual1ey wrote

If you are filling with plywood, then putting cove around the edges, and then painting all white then I would leave it. It will look fine.

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ctrlaltd1337 OP t1_iualyos wrote

Yeah, I'm filling each panel with some hardboard and cove trim, then painting everything white after some filler etc. I'm probably just being overly picky, but I guess if I did slide the vertical over it would make everything pretty damn close to "perfect."

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No_Carpet7125 t1_iuamnlp wrote

Thinking about it a bit more, I think if you were to start over the best way would be to let that top diagonal piece run completely to the other side of the vertical piece, mark the angles on both and cut both. Then butt the lower rail against the diagonal rail piece, which is sitting on top of the vertical piece.

Hope that made sense.

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ctrlaltd1337 OP t1_iuan3ma wrote

Yeah that does make sense and I agree it's probably the best way, but I brad nailed and liquid nailed the shit out of every piece hahaha.

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jaf_guy t1_iubpwkq wrote

IMO, It will look good as is, but on the first landing you could..

Scribe the line of the lower edge of the landing top molding across the end of the descending stairway top molding, then trim the end of that molding.

Likewise trim the lower descending molding to be inline vertically with the bottom stair riser.

Move the vertical molding right, after notching (like you did the 2nd landing) for the bottom stair-nose. Damage to the wallboard will be covered by the inserts.

You already have the second part of the staircase worked out in the picture caption.

Top landing bottom molding, I would just use wood putty to fill the gap.

Nice work. Have fun with it.

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robaer t1_iudfboj wrote

Came here to suggest this as well, it's the right way to create cleanest lines

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