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wd40bomber7 t1_iuac13o wrote

The pulls themselves look good, but is it just me or are they mounted crooked? Maybe its just the camera angle.


BitterYetHopeful t1_iuad7c7 wrote

For sure crooked. Anxiety-inducing.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuah69h wrote

They might be slightly crooked but they look worse in the photo


Keisaku t1_iuaxani wrote

Buy yourself a combination square. Perfect height lineup every time.

Source: carpenter.

Pretty cool though.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuazn43 wrote

Excellent advice. Unfortunately there is a lot of non-square and non-level issues with the cabinets. My 74 year old father helped me build them and he is often more focused on speed and efficiency over accuracy.


EMCoupling t1_iub103y wrote

> My 74 year old father helped me build them and he is often more focused on speed and efficiency over accuracy.

My father is the same way, it drives me nuts. For me, projects almost aren't worth doing if we just cut corners and take shortcuts the whole way through.


amznfire t1_iudi1nf wrote

Omg my FIL is the same way. Built a short section of fence from random length boards, which is fine because every sane person would just cut off the top with a straight edge.

But no, clamping a straight edge takes too much time, so he free handed it. Guess who now lives with a wonky looking wavy fence.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuf2u3m wrote

But you wouldn’t have a funny story to tell, or something to joke around with him about if this hadn’t happened.


Keisaku t1_iub1znu wrote

Ah I get it. Thats cool he helped do all that though. To be fair I dont do shit when I'm home so...


_Face t1_iud5an8 wrote

If it’s not accurate, it’s not efficient. It’s just fast.


el_smurfo t1_iubg2bt wrote

I have plastic drawer knob guides that are so useful.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iudxlc5 wrote

Is it the Kreg cabinet hardware jig? That thing looks really nice! I’ve used their pocket screw jig.


el_smurfo t1_iue0c5h wrote

No, some cheapo thing, but the Kreg would be a better option.


OsmeOxys t1_iuatehi wrote

Neat idea. I like it, though it looks like you forgot to adequately beat on the top one with a hammer lol.

Fastener drawers complete. Next up, one for the wrenches. Just be careful when you get around to the knives, shears, and saws drawer.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuawnhq wrote

i have seen something similar to what I’ve done with open-ended wrenches. I think something was welded onto them. A large saws-all blade would make an impressive drawer pull!


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iues866 wrote

I’ve actually been thinking a bit about this since you wrote this comment…I ruined 6 bolts out of 15 learning how to do all this. So that means I either have to buy a few more bolts or get creative. Maybe I can label the electrical stuff drawer by using large wire nuts as knobs, and my painting supply drawer could have a paint can opener with the offsets tapped into it. I have a nice rolling toolbox for most of my “tools” so this desk is mainly specialized tools and supplies.

My drawers are, automotive stuff, General hardware, gardening, painting / drywall, plumbing, electrical. Feel free to toss out any viable suggestions.

Bonus pics


SoCal_Bob t1_iub74i2 wrote

That's pretty cool! Just a heads-up, the grade 8 bolts are made from hardened alloy steel - which is why you're killing your drills and taps. If you're willing to paint them instead, you could save a lot of headache by going with grade 2 or lower bolts.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iub7w1y wrote

Yeah, I found that out after I purchased everything. I like the yellow zinc color though.


discretion t1_iub8f0z wrote

<looks at first photo> Oh cute, little welded standoffs. Looks tidy.

<looks at second photo> Oh my Lord.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iubdnow wrote

Lol, I’ve never used a tap set before this, but never welded either.


discretion t1_iubgym9 wrote

Well you did a fine job here, I can't weld either and would aspire to this over a glob of JB Weld lol


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuda7a9 wrote

That was kind of my thought. It was a reason to learn how to use a tap set, and on paper sounds more impressive than “I just glued it all together”


Handy_Dude t1_iud6xwk wrote

Drilling into grade 8 bolts? What are you a drill bit salesman?


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iudaxks wrote

The hardest part is getting the hole started. Once the center bit catches, I can do the 3/8” depth in 10-15 seconds. Each bit can cut at least 6 holes, so 3 pulls.


some_kind_of_rob t1_iuac23p wrote

Here I assumed you’d just screwed the bolts into the drawer fronts


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuahhtb wrote

That’s not a bad idea. Drill a large hole and install some tee nuts and then screw some stubby bolts into the tee nut. Probably would have to use some Epoxy on the threads to prevent them from screwing in and out


New2ThisThrowaway t1_iubph4e wrote

Pretty cool.

But, bro. Next tool you should purchase is a drill press vise. $20 at harbor freight before coupons.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuddu1n wrote

I clamped it to the edge of the drill press tray to keep it sturdy. None of the Harbor Freights near me had those in stock when I did this project.


KamovInOnUp t1_iuc1qa5 wrote

I'll never shit on anyone for trying a different technique, but I can't help but feel like this could be accomplished with mere seconds of welding


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iud9rkl wrote

Please share how you would do it! Hex standoffs are either aluminum or brass and I like the shiny gold of the zinc plating on the grade 8 bolts. I probably could have drilled in a larger diameter hole and attached the stand-off with epoxy instead of threading the hole.


sonorguy t1_iudectl wrote

I think you cross threaded those bolts /s

Good stuff!


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuf2clq wrote

I never had a problem with that. Maybe because the grade 8 is so much harder than the stainless in the machine screw. That would be the worst possible way to ruin one though.


sonorguy t1_iuf7a00 wrote

It was a poor play on how the holes are tapped perpendicular to the external threading 🤷‍♂️


SnowFlakeUsername2 t1_iub89gl wrote

Perhaps they would be easier to square and sturdier if the bolt was filed flat were the standoffs meet with it? Like before drilling the holes.


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuf26ml wrote

I basically did that on the threaded end. I used a dremel to grind down the threads so the centering bit has more area to grab.


SnowFlakeUsername2 t1_iuf4umd wrote

For sure. I was more so thinking that the standoffs are flat where it contacts the bolt when screwed in. If both surfaces are flat where they meet than it resists twisting better than a flat surface meeting a rounded one. Maybe it doesn't really matter for a door pull.


xloud t1_iudc9jh wrote

Is it safe to drill into yellow zinc? Don't they use hexavalent chromium to make it stick to the metal?


TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iudgmiw wrote

A little googling shows there are a couple different ways to make this coating. The hexavalent version is currently not allowed by the EU, but I have no idea if it’s still allowed in the US. Sounds like a big problem among people who perform stainless welding and grinding.


Ill-Poet-3298 t1_iud6e9e wrote

Enjoy having the ends catch on your clothes every single time you walk anywhere near them.