Submitted by the_other_sam t3_yrk32h in DIY
I think I know the answer to this but I'll ask.... I need to install a dryer box in my laundry room. The dryer vent pipe comes up through the floor in the wrong place so I want to run some vent pipe inside the wall. The wall is 6 inches deep so I am thinking of drilling through two 2x6 studs to the dryer box. Total length of pipe inside the will be about 18 inches.
The alternative is drilling another hole through the floor.
I have a similar dilemma in my townhome. Been trying to figure out a solution for 10+ years and cannot think of one. That said, I will NEVER consider drilling in anything loadbearing. The term alone should tell anyone, especially laypersons such as I, NOT to fuck with them in any way whatsoever.
> Been trying to figure out a solution for 10+ years and cannot think of one.
Build a soffit?
Take out the drywall of the whole span from a stud that isn’t in your way at the beginning of your run to a stud after your run. Reframe the area with a “beam”. Use the first stud that isn’t in your way as a king, put a jack stud next to it, cut material out of the two studs you want to go “through” to the height of your jack stud plus the width of the beam (5 1/2, 7 1/4, feel free to overdo it), place another jack next to the far king stud. Double or triple (depending on wall thickness) up a 2x6 or 2x8 for your beam that will rest on your jack studs.
Basically like you were putting in a window or door. Just a normal header.
Ta-da!
As an English teacher, I can totally read and understand what you are describing and how/why it solves the problem.
As an English teacher, I'm also smart enough to know when to call someone like you to come and do the job for me! ;)
Would a ‘header’ work? Just, you know, one down low?
Yes. That would work.
Holes can be up to 60% in a non-load bearing wall or 40% in a load bearing. If you double up the studs you can push it to 60% for 2 consecutive studs only. Holes should be dead center.
Maybe you can transition to rectangular or oval shaped duct to get through the studs? But hiding dryer venting is typically a bad idea in general (it needs to be cleaned). I might consult a pro to get their opinion on this one.
>But hiding dryer venting is typically a bad idea in general
I can't say that I've EVER seen a permanent dryer vent run outside the wall. Have you? lol
The house I own now has a dryer vent run through the exterior wall, the remaining 2 ft runs along the baseboard, not within the interior wall. The prior home I owned was the same way.
My parents house has this.
Then it was built before clothes dryers existed, and it was cheaply retrofitted. .
agree with u/glochnar...keep the run as straight as possible to avoid creating a potential fire hazard
I'll second the keep it straight suggestion. My dryer vent goes into the wall, up 8 feet, and then 20 feet to the outside. It really sucks when I have to clean it out.
Seriously?
The studs are load-bearing elements of your home. Drilling a small hole for a cable is ok, but if you drill a 4" hole for a vent pipe, you're weakening the studs significantly.
Don't.
Only on a laod bearing wall. Sometimes they are just there to hold the sheet rock, electrical, etc.
6" studs pretty much guarantees it's load bearing....
Pretty much, but not absolutely. Sometimes a wall will be framed in 6” studs so that there is room for the utilities inside it, such as a 4” dryer vent pipe.
While I agree this is possible, it's dangerous to put this idea in OP's head, because he clearly cannot figure out which is which.
I don’t think it’s dangerous at all. Based on all I’m reading here, I think OP is fairly well informed and is merely confirming his own suspicions, and I’m not the only person commenting in any case, so I’m sure he’s well aware that he can’t just go hacking holes in a 2x6 wall. Another commenter suggested backframing the wall to accommodate the duct, and OP seemed up to the task, so he appears to have at least some basic general knowledge about construction and/or carpentry.
Correct, and thank you.
Sometimes, but really not often. It will likely depend on the age of the house.
In modern home construction when they need extra room they just move the 2x4's out from the foundation a bit or box out the entire utility run in a utility chase.
2x6 partition walls (non-load bearing) aren’t really all that uncommon, especially when acoustical performance is desired. 15 years in construction and I’ve seen a lot of non-structural 2x6 walls.
Me too, I’ve definitely seen more 2x6 partition walls than I have seen houses with specially built utility chases.
I wonder if there is a disconnect because I automatically assumed that the OP's laundry room was in a basement which would include a foundation.
I'm in Canada - everyone has basements here.
It’s typically even less likely to be load bearing in a basement to be honest. Most finished basements are furred out from the foundation with partition walls going up to the bottom of the floor joists
I have 3 loadbearing (2x6) walls in my basement - one of which is against the foundation and holds half of my house up, while the foundation supports a cantilevered beam for a bump out.
Every single other wall in my entire house (except these load bearing walls in the basement) are 2x4's.
I'm just saying that most of the time, when you come across a 2x6 wall - it's load bearing. Since OP can't tell either way, it's better to be safe than sorry.
There’s no foundation behind OP’s wall, he’s either on a 2nd floor or above a crawl space. Laundry rooms are a prime candidate for 2x6 partitions because the walls hold a lot of services. But obviously we don’t know the exact layout of OP’s house, the wall in question could be holding up the roof, or maybe there’s a third floor master ensuite jacuzzi tub right above there.
You don’t know what you’re talking about. ANY builder with more than 2 brain cells frames the rear wall of a laundry room with 2x6s explicitly for the purpose of running the dryer vent through it….
But he needs to cut the hole in the bottom plate, not the studs themselves.
I wonder if there is a disconnect because I automatically assumed that the OP's laundry room was in a basement which would include a foundation.
I'm in Canada - everyone has basements here.
Well OP said the hole for the vent goes through the floor, not the ceiling.
I think you know the answer indeed. A 4" hole in a 2x6 makes it only have the ability to support as much weight as a 2x2. Not ideal. Any chance you could just leave the dryer (and possibly the washer) a pinch farther from the wall like normal people do in a situation like this?
> Any chance you could just leave the dryer (and possibly the washer) a pinch farther from the wall like normal people do in a situation like this?
I wish. Thanks for your reply.
How about building a platform to raise the dryer 6" or so?
Very creative thinking, but I'm stuck with a laundry room that is simply too small. The back of the dryer must be up against the wall or laundry room door wont close. Next size down in dryer is a shoe box. Dryer can not vent out the side because it sits between washer and sink.
Thanks again.
I’m not sure you understand its8up’s suggestion. Build a 6” high platform so you can run the vent pipe under the platform. It can come up through the floor of the platform, exactly where you need it.
It’s the same as the alternative you mention of drilling a new hole in the floor (without drilling another hole in the floor)
> It can come up through the floor of the platform, exactly where you need it.
Nope - platform or not, the dryer still vents out the back.
You can change the direction of the vent on a dryer if it helps. You should be able to see the circles on the side of the machine you can punch out to do so. I'm not sure about venting down though, don't see how that connection could be made when putting the dryer in place.
You could also do a stacked setup if that gives you more vent options, the dryer is always on top.
I haven't read all of the comments on here but I think I know how you can get the platform suggestion to work, assuming I understand the issue.
I am assuming the main issue is that just putting in a vent in any configuration from the machine will result in it hitting the wall. Having the vent go through studs is a bad idea but there shouldn't be any issues running the vent parallel to the studs. So the vent can go into the wall, down to under the platform, come out of the wall, then go where it needs to go.
I'll see if there are any pics or diagrams give posted but if you haven't, those will be helpful.
On my dryer which is stuck close to the wall vents into a narrow rectangular prism that turns into a cylinder once it passes the width of the dryer and then vents via a flexible aluminum hose to the outside.
Could the pipe come below the dryer, then into the wall between 2 studs, then out of the wall into the dryer?
What kind of dryer? Many brands can be modified so the vent exits the side of the dryer.
Thank you, I checked but this one has no side vent, plus it sits against a washer on one side and a sink on another.
You could go sliding barn door if possible. Or what about if you recessed the duct in between the studs behind then the dryer, then once you were above the dryer come out of the wall and run above/along the studs.
Or a bifold door. I put those on laundry room and closets in place.
*in my place
How about I build a barn and move the damn dryer out there. Might be less work...
You asked for advice, and people are trying to help. I don’t understand the standoffishness towards others suggestions
I think that OP wanted to hear: great idea, do that, cut into the studs, it's fine. They don't want outside the box thinking (different door, build a platform, pull the dryer forward), just affirmation that altering the loadbearing wall is great idea.
lol what is your expectation?
Yeah, do that.
Idk how far you're going, but if you really want the dryer vent through the wall, you could put a header above the entire area. You might need a structural engineer to do it safely, but essentially you'd be carrying the load all of of the cut studs. Also, it's possible the wall isn't load bearing, but there's no way we can determine that remotely.
Take the door off, hang a nice looking drape instead. Alternatively, install a bi-fold door that opens outward. Lots of options here.
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What about a pocket door on your laundry room?
Can you change the door? That is easier than changing the studs. Have it swing out instead of in, barn barn/pocket door, or a bifold door all take up less swing space that a traditional door that opens into the room.
Have you considered a ventless dryer?
Why not swap the position of the washer and dryer? Hang the door so that it opens out?
No is the answer you are looking for
Trying to think outside the box here.... How about a little reframing like putting in a window? Transfer the load to adjoining studs and create an opening to get where you're going.
That is actually a great idea and I had to do it with one stud to fit the dryer box in.
Get a heat pump drier, no requirement to vent then. You just need a way to remove the moisture it extracts. Ours just goes down the same waste pipe as the washing machine output. They are not as quick at drying but are very energy efficient and cost little to run.
Yes or a combo washer dryer like most European homes have. Could reduce to just one machine then and have much more room.
And damp clothes
You're overloading it then. I have a Bosch and it's perfectly fine if you actually follow the directions. Sucks if you have a family of 5 but great for smaller frequent loads
Agreed. My British relatives don’t complain of wet clothes and many RVers use combo machines happily. Don’t overload it.
ex-appliance tech here who has seen many DIY vents by homeowners and contractors almost start housefires due to improper venting.
Like for example, what material are you running through the walls? What state do you live in? In Massachusetts, it's against the law to run non-metal and non-rigid transition ducts through walls. How many 90-degree elbows do you have? How long is the actual venting? What is the airflow coming out of the vent? https://www.mass.gov/doc/780-cmr-7thed-65pdf/download
Your state or area may have specific laws you need to follow.
I've gotten in so many fights with homeowners trying to burn their houses down to save a couple of hundred bucks.
I saw in a comment that you're trying to prevent a 90-degree angle and you already have a long dryer vent. If your dryer vent is already longer than 20 feet and has 2 90-degree bends then you 100% need a professional as your airflow may not be strong enough and your vent will become unsafe very fast.
So I'm not really sure what the exact problem here is but it sounds like you are doing something unsafe which is why I'm going to finally say:
Just hire a professional.
https://www.energystar.gov/products/heat_pump_dryer
This is the solution
Wow never heard of these. Great info, investigating this. Thanks much.
15 years in hvac sheet metal here. If you are opening up the wall to drill through two studs, you should also be able to drill a fresh hole in the floor where you actually want your duct. This is by far the better option, but of course you would also need access to below where the duct stubs through. It’s not a great idea to add extra bends, length, or transitions to dryer vent, as you are typically relying on the dryer’s internal blower to void all that air and they are not designed to overcome excess static pressure. If you do run the vent in the wall, avoid transitioning to square as that will not be nice for airflow and that square part will fill up with lint faster and be harder to clean properly. Also, connect the duct pipe with foil tape, no screws, as the screws act as little hooks to catch lint, which will also cause faster clogging and difficulty in cleaning.
New hole in floor saves me one 90 bend. My pipe runs a long way so that is significant. Very good advice, well taken. Thanks.
bonus if the floor is in an unfinished basement and can let the hosing hang from the floor joists.
One 90 is not insignificant, but probably not the end of the world. If your run is especially long, consider adding a small booster fan somewhere. Some other commenter’s solution of backframing to accommodate the duct would work too, but sounds like it might be more work…
Either way, good luck to you sir!
There are also dryers that advertise as "good for long vents" that have fans more suited to longer complex runs. I have a GE model and they are superior.
Have you considered a vent less dryer?
They're more expensive than a "traditional" dryer and they take longer to dry laundry but they use heat pump technology, use less energy to run, and do not need to be vented outside.
Check your dryer manual. Some dryers have the option to vent out the back or the side. You may need to purchase some parts for the dryer but it will be less than remodeling.
Is it possible to just switch the dryer and washer so the dryer and vent line up? You might need to get longer hoses and drain for the washer and move the dryer door hinge side, but again cheaper than remodeling…
If you are set on remodeling it would be sounder, structurally, to move the washer hookups, 3 much smaller holes in the studs than 4 inch holes in a 6 inch studs.
Can't you install a header and double up on the outside studs as if you were putting in a window on that section of wall? If its only an 18 inch span thats fuckall, whatever your stud spacing is16-24" max 48", get a 12 ft 2x8 a big bottle of weldbond, a bag of 5" framing nails and do a triple laminated beam, measure the shit out of everything so you can see if theres sag in your top plate, telepost it in the middle lift it back to where it was, cut your end studs and bang em in place. Do you want to make more engineers and lawyers rich by allowing them to tell you what you cant do without begging for their godly approval? Fuck em all.
Home depot also carries a slim connection kit. Not ideal but might work for your situation
Can you frame out an opening? It would be similar to installing a doorway or window in a load bearing wall.
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The capacity of a column is, in general, compared to the load on the column. The stress is equal to the load (P) divided by the cross-sectional area of the column (A) - P/A. For a 2x6 in compression, the cross-sectional area is the actual depth x width of the 2x6 (I think it's 1.5"x5.5", but it might be 1.5"x5.25" - been a while since I looked at a x6 member).
All materials have an allowable stress (S) in different modes of failure - bending, axial, etc. Timber has more failure modes than most materials because it behaves differently depending on how it's loaded (for example, compression perpendicular to the grain vs. compression parallel to the grain - the direction of the grain as compared to the direction of applied load plays a pretty big part in timber).
In the simplest terms, you want the allowable stress (S) to equal or exceed the applied stress, so S ≥ P/A.
If you drill a 4" hole in your 2x6, your width goes from 5.5" to 1.5", reducing the area significantly. And, if you reduce A, you increase P/A, pushing the load on the column closer to (or possibly exceeding) the capacity. That would be bad - don't do that.
There is more stuff that goes into timber design and column design, but this is the ELI5 version.
I think that a new hole through the floor or bottom plate of the wall is the solution. A 4" hole in a 2x6 bottom plate is no biggie, just needs nail plates. A 4" hole in a 2x6 stud ranges from sort-of-harmless to an imminent structural danger depending on why that wall uses 2x6 studs instead of 2x4. If they're thick for load bearing, you'd risk a collapse of some sort. If they're thick to contain plumbing and pipes, it's sketchy and inadvisable but viable in a pinch. Be very cautious with your assumptions here.
Ideally, your large pipes go straight up or down within walls. And in floors or ceilings, they should go between joists unless they can cross over in the attic or under in the basement.
If you want to put large hole through a structural member like a stud then you should be strengthening it around the hole. Personally, I'd do that even it wasn't a load bearing wall though obviously if it is, then it becomes a lot more critical.
The easiest way to deal with it would be to fit a stiffener plate like this to the stud before drilling the hole - Obviously you'll have to find a local equivalent and will also have to remove the drywall to get access but it's probably the best bet.
Personally, I'd be looking at running the pipe down through the wall and out through the floor inside the wall then doing the extra run underneath the wall. The bottom plate of the wall is less structurally important than the studs so it's a better solution if you have access underneath and assuming there isn't a floor joist directly under where you want to run the pipe
they make oval/thin dryer vent pipe, couldnt you just run it "tall" ways to avoid cutting a hole in half the stud?
If you have to cut the studs, bearing wall/ non bearing wall, YouTube framing a window opening. Some may say that a non bearing wall may not need this type of repair although I believe it is
Just a thought: condenser dryer?
Sister all joists you have to cut through. Make them triplets.
Get a condensing dryer. Problem solved
They make ventless dryers, just saying
I don't know what your setup looks like but it is always an option to run the pipe up to the top of the studs and then outside the wall. When you put the drywall up, cover the protrusion and put up shelves to disguise the odd looking space in your laundry room.
I would not recommend cutting 4in holes into a 5 1/2 wide pice of wood.
Or get a condenser tumble dryer, it doesn't need venting and any heat generated stays in your home.
Great for the summer months!
Can you move further down with a 90 degree bend and avoid cutting through support beams?
Left field comment. Get a condenser dryer. We built a house a few years back and the cost of adding a vent was going to be $500-$1000 ( thicker walls, cabinetry strengthened, external vent etc ).
We were planning on getting new appliances anyway so the price diff to a condenser dryer was less than that to put a vent in. Saves on electricity too.
Edit: I live in Australia so the cost of doing anything is 5x for building stuff.
No photos make it impossible for anyone who knows about this stuff to comment intelligently.
Dryer pipes are flexible so there is no need to drill through a stud at all.
My understanding is that the 6" studs are to provide the proper space for the required insulation. I've worked on plenty of load-bearing walls built from 2x4s before they updated the insulation requirements in the building codes.
Could you fit one of these in sideways to avoid the studs? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Smart-Choice-0-18-in-Dryer-Periscope-Vent-Kit-5304484130/206740122
They make various lengths that might work here if you can fit it in
Thank you, I did buy one of those and I still cant make it fit. Even took off a half inch of the pipe connectors with some tin snips trying to squeeze out every last inch of space but no luck.
Nope isn't never a good idea to cut through studs.
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Thank you - the problem is that the pipe behind the dryer has to be inside the wall (in a dryer box). To do that I have to re-orient the downpipe.
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For an exterior or load bearing wall, I believe you can do 60% of the width if you double up the stud so you could do a 3.3" diameter hole with the edge of the hole no more than 5/8" for each side. Otherwise it's 40%. This is what I remember from the International Building Code when I studied for the contractor's exam.
If it was me, I'd do it in my house if it was only a stud or two.
> If it was me, I'd do it in my house if it was only a stud or two.
Agree. It's an internal wall. I don't think the house is going to tip over. Or I could just cut them off and support with cross beams as /u/6L6aglow suggests.
You don't know what you're doing, and judging from the comments, you also do not understand the basics of dryer hardware.
This is not a DIYable problem for you, hire a professional, because you do not have the reading comprehension or technical ability to do this safely without putting your house at structural or major fire risk.
Since everyone else is saying no, I'm gonna say...fuck around and find out?
MpVpRb t1_ivu2md1 wrote
Drilling large holes in load bearing studs is a really bad idea.