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Ma1eficent t1_ixn58xm wrote

Reply to comment by NotWorthTheTimeX in LVP flooring buckling by MotherofTerrier

Never had to touch up for that. Run a utility knife on the top of the baseboards and take them off with a gentle pry. The LVP floating floor raises it up a 1/4 in or so, replace and run a bead of caulk it a baseboard color match. Done.

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NotWorthTheTimeX t1_ixn60kb wrote

I’m betting you did one room in your own house like this. If you did more you’d know it’s a can of worms when you remove base. Sometimes is comes out clean, other times it’s like they made the base structural and you just created a ton of extra work for yourself due to the junk original builder’s work.

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Ma1eficent t1_ixn6wcl wrote

Front room, kitchchen, hallway, two bathrooms, 3 bedrooms after carpet replacement, and rec room on this house, and the entire thing on a previous. Plus helped a friend do their entire basement. But do go on making up reasons to feel better about cutting corners.

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NotWorthTheTimeX t1_ixncav8 wrote

If you truly did all that then you would have at least a handful of trouble spots. No wall is perfectly straight. Often there’s deep areas of caulk at pull the paper off the drywall.

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Ma1eficent t1_ixnghlt wrote

If you're pulling drywall paper you didn't cut fully. Of course the walls aren't straight, if you are prying and it's trying to.pull paper you just score it at the top of the baseboard.

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NotWorthTheTimeX t1_ixni09f wrote

I appreciate how much you don’t know. On larger gaps the caulk can run down below where you’ll never know until you start pulling. You should only score caulk and not the paper. Often, walls aren’t even finished all the way to the bottom. There are many good reason to add quarter round.

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