Lawn Mower Issue - No Nuts Holding The Wheels On - How To Fix?

Submitted by PrettyMuchAMess t3_z7frm8 in DIY

So, the maternal unit today decided to buy a new lawn mower ( a Morrison 140cc 18" Storm Stroke 500 - NZ$489) , mainly because the old one was a completely piece of shit that now can't be turned off without pulling the spark plug and has always been temperamental as hell to start. But lo and behold, as I dragged it back to the garage to put it away a rear wheel popped off. And on taking off the cap on the front wheel I found out that yes, the wheels were held in with bloody washing lockers.

I thus assume, provided I get everything right, I can just cut a metric thread into the fixed axles and lock a nut on with thread locker? Because I will absolutely lose wheels again given we have a rather wild lawn. Never mind the first mow after I've hand sickle cut the top off...

At least the motor looks better than the old one, although the fuel tank has a plastic top O_O And I suspect the exhaust cage will need some number 8 wire style "fixes" in the future. Seriously, I do not get cheaping out on small stuff like this, because most it's just going to piss off customers who'll look for better brands to buy stuff off.

Or go 2nd hand, which is now my plan. Because for less that NZ$500 I can get something much more solid that will take the same sort of beating the first one did over 20+ years of abuse.

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m0estash t1_iy75gsz wrote

Well There’s always deez nuts!!!

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Windyandbreezy t1_iy80ww9 wrote

It's just participating in no nut november

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phangrrl t1_iy6bry7 wrote

there should be little pressure fitted caps that you tap onto the axle to hold the wheel on

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PrettyMuchAMess OP t1_iy6k8oj wrote

There's not, there's only locking washers. Basically a metal ring with with slots cut out radially and pressed on that are set towards the outside, that hold in place 2 plastic sleeves that act as a bearing. Those are also pressed in pretty hard and I had to hammer the outer one it to get it to seat properly.

This is all covered by a plastic cap that is easy to pry out and appears to have little mechanical strength.

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themadevil t1_iy6lf52 wrote

If I'm understanding correctly, those are called speed nuts, and shouldn't be used for anything taking forces as high as an exterior wheel would have. It does depends on if the wheel has anything else holding it on, though.

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themadevil t1_iy6cn39 wrote

I agree with the caps. They tap on and hold pretty well, though you'll need to make sure they're tight enough to hold the wheel without letting it wobble.

If you do want to make your own threads, you need to make sure the axle material is strong enough to handle it, otherwise you'll lose the wheel and need to replace the axle (if/when the threads break).

You could also look into how the axles are held on, and if you can replace them with a threaded rod, though this is much less likely possible unless you have decent welding or riveting skill.

Edit: autocorrect sucks

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PrettyMuchAMess OP t1_iy6lo5m wrote

>You could also look into how the axles are held on, and if you can replace them with a threaded rod, though this is much less likely possible unless you have decent welding or riveting skill.

Hmmmn, I'll look into how the axles are attached, given how cheap everything else is it's probably just held in place with bolts. Though vis the thread's breaking - shouldn't that not be an issue? Weight bearing axles are usually steel and the one on this mower appears chromed. Plus, while I'm not the gentlest, if it gets stuck I know it's easier to stop and check what's happened than to to just brute force it.

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themadevil t1_iy6omou wrote

If they're using speed nuts to hold wheels on, I'm loathe to assume they're using the correct axle materials.

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themadevil t1_iy6p6fe wrote

Edit: On second thought, it should be enough to add threads as long as the axle is thick enough per spec, I'd just suggest doing a manual pull check once it's done to make sure you're not going to be three-wheeling it home.

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PrettyMuchAMess OP t1_iy78j1b wrote

It's over 1cm in diameter, too blobby (hand cutting a lawn with a sickle is "fun") though to haul it out of the garage to check. Think it's about 1.2-1.4cm roughly. Hence why I thought it could take a thread and nut.

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PrettyMuchAMess OP t1_iy78xiz wrote

> I'd just suggest doing a manual pull check once it's done to make sure you're not going to be three-wheeling it home.

Hah, I can easily carry the stupid thing it that happens. After all it's at home and only for home use.

Worst comes to worst I'll no. 8 wire it and jerry-rig a solid solution. Already had to do that with a flat pack bed that fell apart due to too short screws and no anchors for the bolts.

Or I can just transplant the new motor into the old lawn mower, since it's wheels have stayed on. Unlike it's metal exhaust cage, which is still held in place by annoyingly thick wire from old climbing plant fence support wire.

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themadevil t1_iy7sd7r wrote

Sounds like threading is an easy first option, and you have other options if that doesn't work for some reason. Let me know how it works, and good luck.

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PrettyMuchAMess OP t1_iy78a6c wrote

Not speed nuts, more like these: https://www.anzor.co.nz/washers/internal-tooth-lock-washers Only with thinner metal on the teeth and the teeth are wider too.

[edit] - bless google image search, even with inaccurate search terms it can be rather useful :3 As it appears these are very much the same as the ones on the axles: https://www.ubuy.co.id/en/product/R9C66IW-oiiki-200pcs-m2-m2-5-m3-m4-m5-internal-tooth-starlock-washers-quick-speed-locking-washers-push-on-sp

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Lee2026 t1_iy6fqaq wrote

Whoever assembled the mower didn’t hit the caps hard enough. They take some force to get on but they will hold pretty damn well once they’re properly secured

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Diligent_Nature t1_iy6queb wrote

I'd drill a hole in the axle and add a cotter pin rather than thread it.

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PrettyMuchAMess OP t1_iy790qp wrote

I'd need a vice and a press drill for that, I have neither :P They're on my list of things to buy though, as I need the vice for woodwork and bike repair/maintenance (freewheel locking rings have a lovely habit of locking up really tightly...) + accurately drilling out holes in plastic/aluminium for 3D printed nerf blasters. But I need to finish the PC build, so no hardware for the moment ;-;

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elohesra t1_iy87e3m wrote

Drill a hole through the axle at the appropriate place and use cotter pins to hold the wheels on. Much easier than trying to thread the axle.

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Fluffy-Flow-6818 t1_iy7jtrx wrote

You've been abusing you're maternal unit for 20 yrs and she still buys you a lawnmower. Well done young man

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