How do I change my shut off valve under my sink?

Submitted by Parley_Pratts_Kin t3_yv5olm in DIY

I snapped the handle on my shut off valve (fortunately after it was already turned to the off position) and need to change it. I have searched google and youtube for instructions and it seems straight forward, but none of the directions match what I have on my inlet to the valve from the floor. It looks like some kind of plastic cap piece goes over the bottom thread on mine and I can’t find anything like that online for directions.

I am hesitant to attempt this without clear instructions lest I get into a situation where I have to leave my water off for the whole house for an extended period.

Pictures of my shut off valve

ETA: I was able to swap out movable parts and just attach a new handle. Worked like a charm and no leaks. Thanks everyone!

4

Comments

You must log in or register to comment.

potholes_n_snow t1_iwcjynh wrote

The easiest way in my opinion would be to locate a new identical valve, and swap the movable parts - unless something is wrong with the body of the valve. The plastic piece you mention is a sleeve used for Pex connections, but is mostly used by plumbers and is quite permanent. You can always cut the plastic tubing below it, but then you have other problems to solve... If that connection doesn't leak, I'd leave it alone, and swap the inside of the valve with new parts.

10

Parley_Pratts_Kin OP t1_iwckfym wrote

Thanks. That might be my best bet, especially since I don’t have a tool to crimp a Pex connection. I’ll see if I can swap the movable parts.

3

TheFishBanjo t1_iwdbl2p wrote

This. Sometimes you can find a manufacturer or model on the valve by using your smartphone camera. Try several angles. Take those pictures with you to the stores.

Pex is relatively new so you have a good chance to find that valve still being sold.

Clean the valve seat (in the valve body) gently when you are reassembling. A small amount of faucet grease on the seal is a good idea but not required.

BTW: to avoid breaking a valve, when you start to turn, if it resists; turn just a little CCW, then back CW to tight, then back CCW a little more... Back and forth can break the corrosion up without breaking the stem. It usually works.

3

can_of_cactus t1_iwcm6hq wrote

https://youtu.be/gQ4Fkm2XTcU

This is how that plastic joint works. It's not reversible and not really something a homeowner will have the tools for.

Replacing the guts of the valve is likely your best bet.

You could also cut the plastic pipe and press on a sharkbite valve. That might be the easiest way to go.

4

Parley_Pratts_Kin OP t1_iwcmdri wrote

Does Sharkbite press directly onto Pex, or would I need to buy anything else?

2

jtgreen76 t1_iwed68z wrote

They make a poly fitting but they are limited in functionality. You could use a poly coupler, transition to pex then use a sharkbite

1

bassboat1 t1_iwcql0y wrote

That's Uponor/WIRSBO PEX-A, and you'll need a replacement sleeve and the expansion tool to install one. Amazon will sell you a hand expander set for a cool Benjamin.

2

International-Fly373 t1_iwep9up wrote

Once you get this repaired, it's good practice to open and close these valves on your sinks and toilets 2 or 3 times a year. Keeps them operating properly so they work when you need them to.

2

HootblackDesiato t1_iwcli5m wrote

If that’s PEX supply line, you can cut the line directly below the plastic cap and crimp on a new PEX fitting. You’ll lose a couple inches of length so you may need a longer line to the fixture.

PEX is easy to deal with. I did an extensive plumbing redo in my master bath, all in PEX, and it’s fairly dummy-proof as long as you use the right tools and a go / no-go gauge.

Good luck!

1

Parley_Pratts_Kin OP t1_iwcm7wz wrote

Thanks. This will be my second option if I can’t just swap out movable parts in the valve. I believe it is a Pex line but is there anyway to know for sure? I’d just have to go buy a few tools if so since I don’t have any for working with Pex. Still cheaper than a plumber though.

1

HootblackDesiato t1_iwcn4j6 wrote

Yeah, I don’t know how you’d know definitively if it’s PEX. The stuff I buy locally ((Home Depot, Texas) is not translucent like what you’re showing but a quick Google search shows that it comes that way. I don’t know of any other kind of plastic used for supply lines (but I’m not a plumber).

Also I saw a reference to PEX-A and PEX-B….. life is never simple!

1

hamildub t1_iwekh9t wrote

Definitely better to replace that valve with a ball valve, along with the other one.

As others have mentioned that is pex, and is very easy to work with.you could install a sharkbite shutoff as long as the flexhose to the faucet will reach the new, slightly lower threads

1

inkseep1 t1_iwcmxuw wrote

You can cut the valve off the PEX line. At various big box stores you can get sharkbite or other push to connect valves that will go right onto PEX so you don't have to use any PEX crimping tools. the push to connect are removable so you can replace it if that one breaks someday. Since it is under the sink and exposed, you will be able to see if there are any problems with the fitting. Some people do not like to enclose push to connect fittings inside walls.

I personally dislike PEX and push to connect. I would really prefer copper lines and good olde solder and threaded connections. But progress happens.

1

fredsam25 t1_iwdd8w5 wrote

If you cut the pex line, you should be able to throw on one of these: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-PAMA050-1-2-PEX-AL-PEX-Compression-x-1-2-Male-Threaded-Adapter

And then add this valve on it: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-SSQ050F-038CS-1-2-FIP-x-3-8-OD-Comp-1-4-Turn-Straight-Stop-Valve-Lead-Free-Chrome

And you're done. Probably assemble the valve and the pex compression with tape/dope before putting it on the supply line.

1