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dominus_aranearum t1_ixtug4t wrote

It's only water proof from the top. If water ever gets around the edge, it will potentially run underneath the flooring material and the 'yellow tongue' will soak up water like a sponge and swell.

Personally, I won't use a particle board based sheathing on the floor. While the swelling I've repaired has been limited to kitchens and bathrooms, it's not a risk I'm willing to take as a GC. I'm also not a fan of running a bunch of nails/screws through an old hardwood floor as someone may want to restore it at some point.

All the addition of a plywood or backer board will do is help to flatten out areas. If you have unlevel floors and want them level, you'll need to either do a proper fix or use some leveling materials. Whatever flooring you have chosen, the manufacturer will have very specific requirements for the floor prep prior to installation regarding how flat the floor needs to be.

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t_t_vu OP t1_ixtv9t4 wrote

Thank you so much for the information, I wished I could have restored the floor but it is too bad with glue on and half hardwood and anothe half weak, rotten pinewood

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dominus_aranearum t1_ixtw7qz wrote

If it's already that damaged, it would be better to pull it first. Old flooring should never be covered if you don't know the condition of the sub floor. Especially if some of it is water damaged. Additionally, by adding a layer prior to your new finished floors, it can affect door jambs, thresholds with other floors, etc.

I've done remodels where I've pulled 4 layers of flooring and aside from the nightmare, it's always because the prior installers (or owners) didn't want to do the job properly the first time.

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t_t_vu OP t1_ixtwpzw wrote

That is a very valid point but it will be very costly if we do removing the floor.

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