General Feedback/Getting Started Questions and Answers [Weekly Thread]

Submitted by AutoModerator t3_z63973 in DIY

General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between.

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8

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AnalLeakSpringer t1_ixz98j5 wrote

Can I store boiled linseed oil in hobby syringes?

I don't do full-on woodworking. I just repair and restore stuff and would like to restore/patch/upgrade a large amount of wooden and metal boxes, tools, etc.

This means I probably won't use large amounts of the stuff and generally when I have a liquid that I only need in small amounts, I transfer it to a hobby syringe to prevent drying out or contamination. I usually do it with inks, some glues, some solvents, etc.

I read that BLO and similar oils can combust in crumpled-up rags so I know not to burn my house down. I wouldn't beusing rags though. I'd be using it on Q-tips, with small brushes, etc.

I also read that these tubs of BLO are great when fresh but get worse over time due to exposure to air when you open them. A syringe would be a better way to store and use small amounts. My syringes go up to 100-150ml. They have luer lock threads and can be screwed shut. They are made of Polypropylene.

So can BLO be stored in syringes or am I missing something? Just wanna make sure before I screw things up.

1

Astramancer_ t1_iy0p1sv wrote

boiled linseed oil can combust in crumpled up rags because the curing process is exothermic - it makes heat. So a crumpled pile of paper or rags might insulate it enough for the heat buildup to reach the ignition point and FWOOSH! It's also an oxidation reaction, so yes, keeping it sealed up tight will negate that issue.

I can't find anything about what specific plastics you can store boiled linseed oil in, just be aware of what solvents and siccatives are used in the specific brand you're getting and make sure that they're safe for polypropylene and you'll probably be fine. I'd recommend storing them on a metal tray and inspect the plastic before use, just in case. Also UV can cause chemical changes in the boiled linseed oil, so you'll want to store them inside something light-proof anyway.

1

--Ty-- t1_iy1nzl8 wrote

Yes, you can store them in this way.

You could also just store them in a StopLoss bag, or buy a can of finish preservative (argon gas) that you spritz into the big can of BLO.

1

codin_godin t1_ixze7os wrote

We just had our basement waterproofed (drain tile) and I’m in the process of refinishing. Looking for help deciding on flooring. I was considering a vinyl sheet or tile, or carpet tiles (ease of install plus very inexpensive), but the issue is that our basement floor was painted by the previous owner. If I’m understanding the adhesive instructions, it will not adhere well to paint. Is this accurate? Is there a simple process for preparing painted concrete for adhesive? Looking to create as little dust as possible.

Another option I was considering is laminate. That seems like the next best option considering price and ease of install.

1

--Ty-- t1_iy1nqce wrote

Never ever use carpet in a basement. Ever.

Use Vinyl Click Flooring (Luxury Vinyl Plank). No adhesive required, and fully waterproof, unlike laminate.

1

Sure-Leg-6769 t1_iy6clkb wrote

No carpet is because of water damage risks?

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6eet6 wrote

Partly that, but moreso because of the guarentee of mold.

Concrete slabs should always be treated as though they are moist, because they are almost always moist. Imperfect sub-slab vapour barriers (or none at all), moisture wicking at the edges of the slab, condensation right out of the air, you name it. Any carpet that's directly over basement concrete should be treated as though it has mold. It basically always does.

1

codin_godin t1_iy8qcsv wrote

I understand the concern. We ripped up a carpet that was there previously because of the water damage (hence drain tile lol), so we are fine not doing carpet. The carpet tiles were mentioned as an option because they are a vinyl product, not like normal carpet. Could be lifted up and replaced if one of the tiles had some damage.

1

BlueTomales t1_iy0om13 wrote

Hey! So i live in an older house, and I wanted to replace my fridge. most of the ones I like don't quite fit in the space (they're a bit too tall) so I want to removed the shelves above the current fridge, but I can't for the life of me figure how how they're attached.

[https://imgur.com/a/pGNCC4S] https://imgur.com/a/pGNCC4S

The back of the shelf is screwed in. There's a couple more screws at the very top as well (you can see one back top right of picture 2). Is it all just glued tongue and groove? Is there any way to take this out without just smashing it all with a hammer?

1

SwingNinja t1_iy0wto3 wrote

Almost certain that they're too cheap to be tongued and grooved. If they're installed like mine were, you just need to remove the screws. The ones on the back could be quite long (2-3 inches), screwed to the studs.

2

BlueTomales t1_iy1dchr wrote

The problem is that there are basically no screws! Like I only need to remove the one centre piece diesn't have a single screw in it. So either its attached behind the trim, or its glued?

1

1998f1504x4 t1_iy0zgyy wrote

fixed link: https://imgur.com/a/pGNCC4S

In my opinion you will have to smash. I'd really like to see a better pic of the pieces the cupboard door hinges are attached to though. Another response said that your cupboards were "too cheap" to be t&g but I disagree - these are decently build cabinets.

2

BlueTomales t1_iy1dsbn wrote

Thanks for the fixed link! Yeah the shelves and walls of the cupboards are all some sort of melamine, but the doors and facing trim is all solid wood. That's what the hinges are attached to - the solid wood trim. There seem to be a couple staples and such attaching some of the trim, but not enough to hold them as firmly as they are.

I think they were maybe-built by a previous occupant - a lot of the stuff in the house is high end, very competent, home handyman stuff.

1

oddbluesky t1_iy17c7q wrote

Maybe this is the right place to post this? We have several dogs and when they were younger, they scratched our doors. I'd like to try to fix this so my current plan was to take the door of it's hinges, fill in the gouges and scratches with wood putty, then sand it down first with an orbital sander and then by hand. And then try to match the stain.

My questions are: does this sound like a good process for fixing the door? Am I missing anything? I'm actually not sure whether this is just a stain or sealant. How can I tell and which is best for an internal residential door? How do you color match such things?
Many thanks in advance.

1

Guygan t1_iy1e8za wrote

Post a picture of the door.

1

stonant t1_iy1el47 wrote

Tile guy comes tomorrow & as part of contract he is installing walls & waterproofing alcove tub. Should I install corner bead now, or just leave it loose for him to do as part of his work tomorrow?

1

asuhayda t1_iy2c3k8 wrote

Hello! I just got a new storm door and looks like I need to add a 1/4" shim for it to fit properly. My issues is this, the storm door requires a 1" wide by 1" deep mounting surface. I thought I could get a piece of screen moulding and cut it to run the length of the door jam, but it's only 3/4" wide, not 1. Would I be able to find any pieces of wood at Home Depot that are 1/4" thick by 1" wide and long enough to run the length of the door jamb (80")? I know they sell wood shims but those are small and not installed along the the whole jam and I worry about cold air leaking in or that it just won't look that good. Anyone have any thoughts?

1

Razkal719 t1_iy2wvkm wrote

I'm assuming the metal frame has an angle profile with holes for screws to go into the door frame at 90 degrees to each other. So some on the face of the frame and some on the inside of the frame. I'd mount the 3/4 screen molding an 1/8 or 1/4 in from the face of the door frame so that the holes in the metal angle line up with the center of the 3/4 molding. Pre-drill your holes or the molding will split. This will leave a small gap in the inside corner but that shouldn't make the metal frame loose or unsupported provided you get good connection from both the face and inside screws. You may want to buy screws for the inside holes that are a 1/4 inch longer so you still get good grip into the wood door frame.

2

asuhayda t1_iy396l0 wrote

Thank you! I just checked it and you're right, the screen moulding will definitely work. And thanks for the tip on buying longer screws!

2

PatD442 t1_iy3euuf wrote

I have a waffle iron from my grandmother. It's OLD. And works (worked?) great. Not looking to replace it with something modern. Pretty simply workings, but what I can't understand is how the "thermostat" works.

The last few times I used the waffle iron, it seemed like the thermostat wasn't controlling the top element and it was staying on at all times. I kept turning it down, and the top was burning, bottom wasn't cooking. And yes, both elements do work.

I'm not understanding how one element could stay on while the other is off based on the thermostat. So I'm trying to understand exactly how this thermostat works. Any thoughts?

https://imgur.com/xLaRCZV

https://imgur.com/fwG0vnY

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6g9kk wrote

It's going to be a bimetallic strip. Two pieces of different metal sandwiched together, with different coefficients of thermal expansion. As the temperature changes, the two metals push and pull on each other, allowing the piece to move. Make this piece into a coil (the coil seen in the bottom-left corner), and it will curl and uncurl itself as temperature changes. We harness this movement to connect or disconnect circuits. You can find some great info on it from Technology Connections on youtube.

Chances are, the bimetallic strip has either broken or gotten stuck somehow.

1

PatD442 t1_iy6kjv3 wrote

Ah, got it. Good info. Now, based on how this is wired, it would appear that BOTH elements are going to be on or off at the same time, though, right? Any thoughts on why, potentially, one would stay on and one would cycle?

1

Noichiboy t1_iy3jmvj wrote

I would like to add padding to a bag and some pouches to carry my photo gear and my laptop but I don't know which material would suit the best.

I thought of EVA foam and neoprene. The thing is, I'm afraid that would fall apart or crumble in small pieces after a while. Ultimately, I would put microfiber on it but still, it would be best to have a padding as durable as possible.

What would you recommend me?

1

Guygan t1_iy4y2yq wrote

Use EVA foam inside a fabric layer.

1

Noichiboy t1_iy8asgz wrote

Alright, I'll use that! I already have some laying around on my desk.
Thanks for the advice.

1

krb501 t1_iy47seu wrote

So, I was trying to put together some cheap particle board furniture from Amazon, and I broke the screw holes by not working in a suitable place to assemble furniture that delicate. Is there a way to repair the screw holes while not spending a fortune or should I learn wood working and build a better desk out of more quality materials?

1

Guygan t1_iy4xztj wrote

Post a pic of the damage and we can help you.

1

krb501 t1_iy5og2s wrote

Okay, I don't think a picture is going to help too much, as the product was finally assembled, and the damage isn't visible now. A friend came over and put the desk together, but there are no screw holes for the last piece. I'm guessing we need a tiny not very powerful drill to create starter holes.

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6fw2e wrote

You can drill out damaged holes to a large size, and then glue a dowel in that corresponds to the hole you drilled. Then saw/cut the dowel flush, and voila, you have new fresh wood to drill into.

1

krb501 t1_iy6hdqn wrote

That sounds like a plan. Thanks!

1

pewpewshazaam t1_iy4fmdm wrote

It seems the sink in my Kitchen has started to have the Linoleum chip away. Is there a good way to fix it? Or a recommended way to fix it?

1

Guygan t1_iy4xx87 wrote

I very much doubt that your sink is made of linoleum.

Post a picture of the sink and the damage.

1

pewpewshazaam t1_iy50kqm wrote

Ah yeah that would point to my inexperience I'm sorry. I'll post a pic when I get home.

2

LordFighting t1_iy4paq7 wrote

OK bit of an odd question but trying to work out the size of something. I'm looking to buy my friend some new pocket sleeves for her photobook you know the thin plastic sleeves you can slide photos in and out of. But I'm not sure on what size I need. It's an A4 size folder I believe and then inside there is 3 photos on a page. 3 rectangular shaped photos fit on one page so the photos themselves would have to be about A6/A7 size. Which do u think is more likely?

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6fn7d wrote

Photos do not follow the same sizing convention as paper. 4x6 photos do not line up with any A-X number. If you search for 4x6 album sleeves, you should find results. You can try searching for A4 4x6 album sleeves not to refer to the photos themselves, but the overall size of the album and sleeve.

1

ahmadsal t1_iy53or4 wrote

I have this standard light switch I want to replace with one that has a pilot light. Switch in garage, lights in backyard.

I only found switches where the light activates in the off position (like a night light), switches with separate pilot lights, and what I'm looking for but as industrial light switches significantly pricier.

Does what I'm looking for exist for home light switch?

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6fics wrote

Will this work?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-1-25W-125V-Combination-Switch-with-Neon-Pilot-Light-White-R52-05226-0WS/202035018

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ahmadsal t1_iy6h59z wrote

Kind of, although I was hoping having the light not separate from the switch. Kind of like the first link below, but that illuminates when off. Second link is what I'm looking for but is significantly more expensive thanks to industrial.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-120-Volt-Toggle-LED-Illuminated-Single-Pole-Switch-Residential-Grade-Grounding-Clear-R00-L1461-00C/315716006

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Industrial-Grade-Heavy-Duty-Single-Pole-Pilot-Light-Toggle-Switch-Clear-1201-PLC/301447036

1

MySecretPoster t1_iy5oczp wrote

I have created a design for my new office, though I am uncertain about the desk overhang in my design where my chair is. The screenshot below is how I designed it in SketchUp. The overhang is 2.3m.

Some of the problems are:

  1. The wall to the right is not a load-bearing wall. The wall with the window is concrete and so are parts of the wall behind the cabinets to the right.
  2. This is a flat and there is no cargo lift. The panels will have to be cut into pieces (my guess ~2-2.5m max height).

My question thus is whether this idea is feasible? If so:

  1. Where to ideally cut the wood and how to affix the pieces?
  2. How to best support the overhang while trying to avoid a pillar in the middle.
  3. How to make the cuts in the wood as invisible as possible? When using real wood or veneer.

Any other tips are also greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Also, where do people get cover panels? Like I have added some to the bottom of those cabinets (which will be Ikea) but the only one I can find are for kitchen units.

https://imgur.com/XpU1pOf

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6fb2t wrote

By overhang I assume you're referring to the span where the chair is. This is a perfect spot for a cleat along the wall. With the cabinet holding the desk at the left, another cabinet holding the other end at the right, and a cleat supporting the entire back end along the wall, you'll have more than enough support for this span.

That said, do absolutely everything in your power to avoid having the panel seam fall right where you sit. That's the worst possible spot for it. You should be able to get an 8' panel section up your stairwell, even if it takes a bit of exercise to do it.

1

Sure-Leg-6769 t1_iy6cblp wrote

How much torque do you "need" on a cordless drill? This would be for general DIY use. My Ryobi bit the dust this weekend and will probably buy another since I have the batteries. The options are ~400-750 in/lb. I want enough power to drill larger holes and mix paint/mortar (which is what I burned out the last one doing).

Additionally, any better options than Ryobi? I already have a 12v Milwaukee and 18v Makita battery and charger and don't really want to add a 4th brand.

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6ewgt wrote

More number more better.

In all seriousness, though, I have not yet found a limit on the amount of torque I need, but my needs may vary from your needs.

That said, I'm a bit perplexed by your question. You ask if there's a better option than Ryobi, and that you already have 12V milwaukee and 18V makita.... you know those are both miles better than Ryobi in terms of build quality, right? Stick with your 18V Makita platform, and pick up a nice drill or drill/driver combo, and it will outlast your ryobi by years.

The more you spend, the more you will absolutely get when it comes to drills and impact drivers.

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Sure-Leg-6769 t1_iy6lz8v wrote

Well I only have a single battery each for the Milwaukee and Makita. The Milwaukee impact has been great but the Makita was bought as a weed wacker/leaf blower kit. Leaf blower broke after dropping it from ~2 ft and the weed wacker is pretty poorly designed so I'm not particularly enamored with Makita.

I've had pretty good luck with Ryobi but I wouldn't mind upgrading a few of the tools (namely the multi tool and circular saw, along with the needed drill).

Ignoring my current battery, Makita would be your pick then?

1

--Ty-- t1_iy6zsy1 wrote

The power tool companies found at Home Depot and the like focus on construction, and that's where they put out their quality products. The more.... "homeowner" type of products, like leaf blowers and weed whackers are meant to be cheap, weak things, that just help the companies cover the market and fill all possible niches. I've seen the blowers and weed whackers offered by most of those power tool companies and they're all cheap things. If you want quality cordless garden tools, then you gotta go with a quality garden power tool company, like Sthil or Husqvarna.

That said, when it comes to construction-focused tools, the Big Three all put out good stuff, which each company being known for one trait more than the others

Milwaukee tends to be the most powerful. They also have fantastic platform integration with their clothing lines and packout cases.

Dewalt tends to be the "default" because of a balance of price and quality. They also offer flexibility with their 60V lineup and 20/60V flex batteries.

Makita tends to be the best-built. They are known for lasting forever, and taking the most abuse without breaking. This goes doubly for old makita. Any of their tools that are still made with the original all-plastic castings with no rubber overmouldings are nigh-indestructible. You can take those things to Pluto and back.

Since your only other 18V battery is makita, I'd say go with them. If you act fast you can get a drill/driver combo kit with a battery for a great price with cyber monday deals.

The more you spend, the more you will get. Each of these companies puts out three different tiers of quality, at three different pricepoints.

2

Sure-Leg-6769 t1_iy8pi5o wrote

Makes sense about the yard maintenance tools. I figured the Makita would be more solid, but after one drop the leaf blower trigger only works about 30% of the time. The weed wacker has good power but the string dispenser doesn't dispense very well and has a tendency to fall off.

I ended up pulling the trigger on a 18v mid-tier Milwaukee brushless drill and a [brushed] oscillating tool.

2

--Ty-- t1_iyb9xfk wrote

Enjoy your new brushless drill!

One thing to keep in mind though: No standard drill is designed to mix concrete and thick mortars. That requires so much torque, it's likely to burn out even the best drills. If you're mixing up very dry or thick mortars, you should get a mixing drill. They're geared for very slow rotation but very high torque. Useless for anything other than mixing, but at least they can handle the application.

1

Razkal719 t1_iy6rh97 wrote

A cordless drill is not going to last long mixing mortar. It's a matter of horsepower and temperature more than torque. Torque measures how much leverage the drill can apply to a screw. Mixing is a continuous high load over a fairly long time and will burn out the winding or brushes. Although most cordless drills are brushless nowadays. If you're going to do a lot of mixing, go to harbor freight and buy a cheap 1/2" corded drill. Because even a 3/8" corded is insufficient for heavy mixing jobs.

1

Sure-Leg-6769 t1_iy8lly3 wrote

I have a harbor freight SDS hammer drill actually, along with a chuck adapter. That thing is pretty powerful but horrendously loud so I don't use it unless I have to.

1

Chromspray t1_iy6ffpd wrote

Looking for a company that sells fibre washers.

Specifically the size "12.5 x 23.5 x 1.0 mm" (Inner, outer, thickness).

Location is europe but willing to buy from anywhere as long as pricing is reasonable.

1

1998f1504x4 t1_iy6lvb5 wrote

If you can't find a supplier, somebody with a laser cutter could whip these up for you pretty quick.

1

Chromspray t1_iy6q9mr wrote

Any examples including pricing? I'm trying to stay around 5-15 USD/100pcs ish in price range.

1

Citanaf t1_iy6n1iq wrote

Can anyone tell me what type of drywall / board this is? https://imgur.com/a/cQ4ecLu

I am wanting to fully refinish my garage as I can tell it's been partly done by different owners over the years. The wall in question could have been up since the 80s, it's hard to know. There are clearly two different types of walls in my garage. One is standard drywall, and the other is this one. It seems much harder and has a texture. The top textured layer is considerably thick, either a heavy paint or compound of some type. I was able to pull some of the texture off to reveal the cardboard backing. Behind the cardboard backing is some drywall type material.

I'm pretty new when it comes to DIY, but I think drywalling in the garage is a fairly safe project.

Thanks!

1

Razkal719 t1_iy6qjcc wrote

Looks like regular drywall with a roller texture surface. Be aware, if your garage is attached to the house you likely need to use 5/8 and or fire resistant drywall on the shared wall. So this may be older style fire resistant drywall.

1

Citanaf t1_iy6xyxb wrote

Ok sounds good. Appreciate the note on using fire resistant drywall, it is connected to my house.

My house does have asbestos in the ceilings. Is it possible that this drywall contains asbestos as well?

1

Razkal719 t1_iy7jb7e wrote

If it was put in between 1940 and 1980 it very well may have. But it's not a concern if you don't disturb it, ie cut or demo it.

1

_mrbreakfastman_ t1_iy6nr1h wrote

Hi, so I wanted to run an ethernet cable through some vacuum pipes, but the pipe has a lot of curves, and isn't a straight shot pipe (has an intersection). Was wondering if anyone knows of any methods or tools to let me run the ethernet cable through the pipe (going from 2 floor to basement.)

1

Astramancer_ t1_iya6g6y wrote

If the vacuum pipes are more or less solid then probably the easiest way would be to get a plastic grocery sack or small wad of cloth. Tie some twine or fishing line to it. Shove it in one end (should be loose but take up most of the cross-section, you do not want it packed in) and go to the other end with a shop vac and suck it through.

Then you can tie the cable to the twine and pull it through. No reason not to keep a length of twine in the pipe for future runs.

2

bonesaw1428 t1_iy6xkic wrote

I'd like to add build in cabinets to my laundry room. I've tried looking at Ikea for options, but I'm not finding anything that will fit what I have planned. Any other options for premade cabinets that I could look at? Preferably on a budget. I have the skills needed to install and frame out premade cabinets, but not to build cabinets from scratch. Thank you!

1

Razkal719 t1_iy7j3wo wrote

Home Depot and Lowes sell premade cabinets in a few basic colors/styles. They also have cabinet units specifically for going above a washer dryer that are 60" long, 24"tall and 12" deep. Just search for Laundry Cabinet.

1

Worglorglestein t1_iy7f2gv wrote

New home, and the cold water pipes going to the washing machine are about 1/8" away from an uninsulated exterior wall. We haven't had any major freezes yet, and I'm trying to figure out the best way of insulating these pipes to avoid any potential problems this winter.

I was wondering if putting a few sheets of insulation on the outside of the house might help. Since we are planning to re-side the place next summer, I was thinking that just adding some insulation now might solve our current pipe issue while also saving a bit of work down the road.

Thoughts? Any other suggestions about ways to keep the pipes insulated?

1

Guygan t1_iy7uqn6 wrote

What is the wall made of, is the wall insulated, and is the space heated?

1

Worglorglestein t1_iycgauk wrote

They're basically just the cement walls that make the foundation. The washer is down in the basement, so yes, the area is heated.

1

--Ty-- t1_iybb6vw wrote

If the hoses are inside the house, and you're saying they're 1/8" away from the interior-facing surface of the wall, then you have absolutely nothing to worry about at all and don't need to do anything.

1

Worglorglestein t1_iycg436 wrote

Well, maybe they aren't quite 1/8" away. I'm not there ATM to measure, but we've already noticed them getting close to freezing this year. Last time, we were able to keep the water running during the night, but we caught it in time.

One way or another, they're getting pretty cold, and so far outside temps haven't dropped below the teens. Once things get into single digits, I have a feeling that there might be some trouble if we don't do something.

1

--Ty-- t1_iydt534 wrote

If the whole space is uninsulated, then the whole space may get cold enough to freeze the pipe. Just insulating right next to the pipe will probably not be enough in that case. Likewise, insulating the pipe itself probably won't help either if the cold conditions stay for long enough. A pipe heating coil/wrap/tape/element might be the way to go. Just a trickle of electricity to keep the pipe above freezing temperatures.

That said, adding insulation to the entire space will help, but that's a whole project.

1

Slats-a-ah t1_iy7mlsy wrote

Every so often this bubbling gets worse. Today it is now about 50cm longer towards the ground but hasn’t moved for many months. However we got a bunch of rain and have high humidity today. It is in the toilet which is internal to the house, no walls shared external.

Is it a water leak in the roof? Poorly finished paint or plaster? Something else? The bubbling feels cool but isn’t wet and I cannot see water on the wall.

Australia. Home is about 10yr old.

https://imgur.com/a/Awt8aVN/

1

Guygan t1_iy8w58m wrote

Scrape the bubbled paint off and see what’s underneath

2

--Ty-- t1_iybb2bj wrote

Yes, it's water leaking in from somewhere.

2

Slats-a-ah t1_iyc6i1a wrote

Thanks for the tips. I cut a bit of paint away, damp down the join. Not saturated thankfully.

Once it stops blowing a gale I’ll stick my head up into the roof and look for anything obvious.

Thanks u/--Ty-- and u/Guygan!

2

hobiwankinobi t1_iy91rv3 wrote

https://imgur.com/a/R3ahBd4 I bought these exterior Christmas lights and the plug in is so loose it slides into and out of any extension cord I have. There is enough space to move the plug slightly left and right while fully embedded in the socket. Anyone have any experience with this?

1

Guygan t1_iy96uqp wrote

Bend the prongs slightly together.

1

hobiwankinobi t1_iy97vw8 wrote

Yes I did do that. Just wondering about this as I've never seen a universal plug this much smaller than every other plug I've ever seen. Safety concerns? Just curious

1

Guygan t1_iy9jkjf wrote

Probably cheaply made product.

Tape it to the extension cord by wrapping it with electrical tape and it should be fine.

2

nomokatsa t1_iyc1ien wrote

I'd just cut off the plug and put on a new one; Plugs are super cheap, the job cannot kill you (you're working on a system without electricity), and it will be more comfortable later on, to just plug the thing in like any other device, without having to tape /untape it every time...

1

hobiwankinobi t1_iycf9i4 wrote

That you get an idea too. After I take them down after Christmas, that sounds like what I'll need to do

2

bachang t1_iyadpzg wrote

Ways to imitate sunlight in super dark studio apartment? I've layered my lighting already, but I want a setup that gets brighter as the day progresses. my lamps are just on/off

The only thing I can think of is IOT (hella expensive) or hacking it out using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi..

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--Ty-- t1_iybawtc wrote

You'll need to use an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, it's the only way to set up lighting like that across a day. You can integrate it with something like Philips Hue bulbs in order to change the colour temperature of the white light and the brightness across the day.

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bachang t1_iybq2uq wrote

Dang that's what I thought. Thank you!

Incidentally am trying the "circadian rhythm" setting in a Phillips Wizz bulb rn. Hopefully that works well enough 🤞

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SkyOsiras t1_iyady6l wrote

Hey all, so I recently put up a pair of wall brackets to hold two shelves up. Drilled holes in the wall, used the anchors that came with screws. Of the 8 only 1 wasn't tightening properly, it got tight but was still spinning.

Am I at risk of it all collapsing down? I've had just the bracket with the wood shelves up for a couple of days and haven't seen any migration from the bracket.

Edit: Just to add it's my first time putting up shelves. I guess if you imagine a vertical bar with 4 screws from top to bottom, then the 2nd from the bottom was the screw still spinning

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--Ty-- t1_iybarri wrote

What type of anchor were you given?

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nomokatsa t1_iyc15d5 wrote

In my experience, either the anchors are fit for the job and the wall, then 1/8 doesn't really matter (especially like in your case, when it's not somewhere by itself, but in a line), or they are completely useless, but then even the 8 wouldn't do it.

The cleanest procedure would be to take the shelf down again, take our the spinning screw, take out (drill out) the anchor, still a new, slightly bigger, hole, or in New, sorry bigger anchor, put in slightly bigger screw.

I seldom bother with cleanest procedure xD

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Pistalrose t1_iyaz955 wrote

Best caulk for baseboards and door/window molding?

Old house with not perfectly straight walls and windows. Need to fill in a bit here and there. I’ve been told both acrylic latex or latex or a latex/silicone blend. All trim is painted white and I’ll touch up after caulking.

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--Ty-- t1_iybaorr wrote

>I’ll touch up after caulking.

Not if it's silicone, you won't.

For applications where you're going to paint the caulking, use Latex Acrylic caulking -- the best tier you can find. Urethane elastomeric caulkings are great too, like Big Stretch and Pro Stretch.

For applications where you need maximum durability and weather resistance, use 100% silicone.

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fin_advice_me t1_iybfpva wrote

Trying to choose the proper PEX-b sizing. Had a leak in my copper tube, cut that off and placed a shutoff valve. Now I'm trying to rebuild downstream.

My copper tubing is 1/2" (OD=5/8"), and it would be feeding to my toilet.

Should I maintain the ID of the connection, or use same size?

I'll take other thoughts and suggestions. Thank you.

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Nola67 t1_iybr58q wrote

Need to relay concrete on 150 ft by 16 ft driveway. How much money would save on my quote if I tore up and hauled away the existing driveway myself? 35%?

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Astramancer_ t1_iycxqg1 wrote

The cost to demolish a driveway is usually somewhere between $2 and $6 per square foot. So you could reasonably expect to save somewhere between $2400 and $14400 off the contractors bill. Possibly more if your location is particularly annoying or if the contract you end up going with has a "I really hate demo work" cost built into their quote.

There's a lot of factors that go into it, hence the hugely widely variable cost.

Really the only way to be sure is to get a quote with and without demo.

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Embarrassed-Loss-118 t1_iycpk3j wrote

Need to make a 3d model of a desk and for some engines with motors, what program is the best?

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Redneck_Ramsay t1_iyegban wrote

Theft-proof a truck bed soft cover?

I picked up a soft tonneau tri-fold cover for an upcoming cross country trip. I plan on moving any valuables to the cab when I stop each night, but was trying to figure out if there was a cheap-ish option to hinder thieves from cutting open the top and getting access to my things. There are some cross-bars to support the cover, and it's attached by clamps to the sides of the bed. It only needs to last ~4 days, I don't need the "tri fold" functionality of the cover during that time, and can dispose of whatever the solution is once I get to my next destination.

Any ideas?

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Astramancer_ t1_iyezmow wrote

It's a matter of time and attention. The longer you can make it take and the more attention gets drawn while doing it the safer it will be.

Upon looking at the product in question, two things come to mind.

First things first, the clamps. A plastic molded thumb turn is great and all, but super easy to undo if you can access it. Fortunately this is super easy to fix: Jam nuts. Get two nuts that match the threaded rod. Run them up to the bottom of the thumb turn. Now get a pair of wrenches and tighten those nuts as hard you can against each other. No risk of damaging the thumb turn and no way to undo the thumb turn and unclamp the cover without using a wrench to un-jam the nuts. Best part is that the nuts are super cheap, this retrofit will easily cost you all of $4 and make it more annoying to deal with the cover even after cutting through it.

But the main problem is that the fabric will not, cannot, stop or even meaningfully delay forced entry. Any yahoo with a pocketknife can just cut a slit and get right in. So my first initial thought was ... chicken wire. Or better yet, welded wire fencing. For $50 you can pick up 50 ft x 40 inch rabbit guard wire fencing from Tractor Supply, which should be plenty for what I have in mind. Go to a big box home improvement store or a farm store and see what's available.

You'll have to figure out some way of securing the fencing to the framework of the cover. I'm thinking a small diameter drill bit and using wire ties. Drill a hole straight through the support bar, wire through the holes, twist around the fencing, and there ya go. Since the fencing is flexible you should still be able to open up the back like you're supposed to.

With the wire fencing on the underside even if someone slashed the cover they could probably still bend the wire to get their hand through (depending on the size of the grid), but they're not pulling anything out of the bed through it. If they had enough time and privacy they could cut slits, bend wire out of the way, and unhook the cover from the bed... unless there was something preventing them from unscrewing the hooks, like a jam nut.

Sure, if someone had time and motivation they could get through the wire fencing pretty easily, but the only thing that can really stop a determined thief is being there and stopping them yourself.

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Redneck_Ramsay t1_iyf3gsg wrote

Genius. My first thought was something like plywood, but wire fencing never even crossed my mind. And again, never would have thought of the jam nuts applied in this way. Thank you!!

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