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mister-noggin t1_ivfi7hq wrote

It won't make a meaningful difference. The flow restrictor in the showerhead is going to do much more than a longer hose ever will.

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Sodomeister t1_ivfm1pz wrote

I have a well and had abysmal pressure in my shower head despite the system sitting at 60psi. Removed the restrictor and it was a game changer. I felt a bit bad but the excess water goes into the leach bed anyways so..

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mister-noggin t1_ivfmkuc wrote

I've removed them before too. It was a huge improvement, but it also drained the water heater very quickly. I probably should have changed the showerhead instead, but it was a rental and I didn't have much money at the time.

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Sodomeister t1_ivfnhe2 wrote

We have a 50 gallon and there are only two of us so I think we will be okay. I'd go tankless but the water heater was just replaced prior to us buying the house so it doesn't seem like a good investment atm.

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[deleted] t1_ivfs1us wrote

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babecafe t1_ivgcqf5 wrote

Tankless electric use resistance heaters which costs $$$$ to use, and need high current wire and breakers which costs $$$$ to install. Tankless gas, if you've got a sufficient gas line (can go up to 199kBTU) only need a little electricity.

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[deleted] t1_ivgz6ag wrote

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babecafe t1_ivhhv6s wrote

Ok, so your using the electric tankless to provide supplemental heat when the tank runs cold, then. Here in California, electricity runs 35+ cents/kWh, so the relative cost is more dramatic. My local city is now outlawing gas appliances for new construction and 50%+ remodels, and they can have my natural gas tankless water heater when they can literally pry it out of my cold dead hands. I just finished my 90% remodel + 9% addition, so I'm well positioned that way.

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babecafe t1_ivhirn8 wrote

Recirculation just keeps the HW pipes (and contents) warm, which should be insulated with foam. You can use a timer to decide when it runs. Gas heat in a tankless is pretty much instantaneous, but there is a "cold water sandwich" issue when there not enough mixing in the pipes.

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