Will my pantry shelves be sufficiently strong with my choice of lumber?

Submitted by alperozt t3_z9qi0r in DIY

We have a pantry that is 5'7" deep, 4'9" wide. I would like to build shelves along the side wall and the front wall (because of where the door is etc) to store usual pantry things (grains, pasta, some canned goods, maybe some kitchen tools). I've watched quite a few how-to videos on YouTube and actually built some shoe closet shelves to practice / learn from.

So, here's my question: Wife doesn't want a center support for visual taste (so, my shoe closet shelves -- cleat around the perimeter with a plywood on top won't fly). If I were to build a frame using lumber and make a box around it, what size lumber should I use? I am thinking about using 2x2 to build the frame, use 2.5" screws to mount this frame on the studs. Then use 3/4" plywood on top, 1/4" plywood a the bottom with some decorative molding in the front. Would this be strong enough for a pantry? Should I build the frame from 1x3 instead of 2x2? ...or is 1x2 enough? I don't want the shelves to be super thick (takes away from useful space).

I appreciate any help.

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brock_lee t1_iyhz4fa wrote

That should be more than sufficient. "Boxes" are often even stronger than you think they're going to be because all the pieces together as a system. I might even suggest MDF rather than plywood, if you are considering painting or using contact paper on top. It's cheaper, and takes paint REALLY well. Might even hide a 1x2 rib down the middle for added anti-sag support.

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skaz915 t1_iyhz7tm wrote

How deep are you figuring the shelves to be?

It really depends on how you're loading the shelves but I don't really see a 2x2 being strong enough esp. If you were to store canned goods and heavier items on them. For storing nothing but cereal and some boxes of pasta, you'd probably be ok.

I would go 2x3. Once the shelve is skinned, it won't appear any different than if you framed with 1x3 but it'll be much for rigid.

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alperozt OP t1_iyhzv3o wrote

Replying to skaz915 (#839,887)

I saw some videos where people build these frames in 2x3 and sat on them (basically weight of a person is not an issue -- seemingly). That's why I was thinking about 2x2.

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brock_lee t1_iyi1f1t wrote

Replying to alperozt (#839,937)

Well, yeah, you can stain MDF, but it usually doesn't work well since there's no grain. Most people will do a faux grain on the MDF, but a nice plywood with a cabinet grade veneer is probably easier, if not exactly cheaper.

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alperozt OP t1_iyi1xc7 wrote

Replying to Riceball2019 (#839,949)

Sagulator only calculates the sag of the wood shelf, not the frame, correct? I am a mechanical engineer (a computational modeler) and I tried to do the sag calculations myself with the frame but wood properties vary a lot and depending on what I chose, I got different results. Hence, maybe someone here has practical experience which supersedes my calculations.

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Chapman79 t1_iyi3d3o wrote

What you’ve described is almost exactly what I did in my bus with wood glue and pocket screws. I used dimensional 2x2 as it’s stronger than the framing stuff. It has held up over more than 6,000 miles now. The 3/4 ply on top is overkill in my opinion. Use a good quality ACX and you’ll be fine with .5”. I used .5” on top and bottom of the 2x2 frame. There’s been no sag and I’d guess it’s holding 60-70 lbs plus the forces of driving.

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