Submitted by FatFart777 t3_zrx1nb in DIY
toalv t1_j15ch6j wrote
You run the underfloor heating off an independent temperature sensor installed in thinset under the tile, not a temperature sensor attached to the wall that might even be in another room entirely.
This takes a bit of work to figure out what temperature setting in the floor corresponds to a comfortable room temperature (usually a few degrees higher than the room) but the floor will be pleasantly warm at all times and not have the big temperature swings you noticed. You also need a controller per room or zone.
The way your friends have it leads to weird on/off switching behaviour of the floor heating as you noticed. It should be controlled based on the floor temperature, not the room.
frzn_dad t1_j16qcrf wrote
On/off is cheaper because it just uses a basic on/off thermostat and zone valves.
When you want to have a floor setpoint you need additional analog sensors, modulating valves, an interface to set the temps, and controllers with appropriate i/o to monitor/control it all.
For most not rich people slippers are the right answer.
[deleted] t1_j1786mh wrote
[removed]
AffectionateJump7896 t1_j18jnz1 wrote
For electric underfloor heating it does indeed tend to be a sensor in the floor, as the electric underfloor heating is about heating the floor for that nice feel on the feet. For wet underfloor heating I've more commonly see an air temperature thermostat - after all it's probably the main source of heating and the objective is to get the air temperature right. Some do have both air and floor sensors.
The answer here, OP, is to insulate the floor. What you're describing is classic retrofitted UFH, with inadequate insulation. The room gets nice and warm, the heating turns off, and the floor cools down fast. When the floor is insulated, the floor loses its heat to the air, so only if the air is too cool will the floor be too cool, and in that case, the floor will switch back on.
FatFart777 OP t1_j16j69e wrote
thank you!
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