Toilet water supply valve..

Submitted by DappleDoxies t3_zwbcwu in DIY

I’m at a loss here on what to do. Recently bought a house and this is how the master bathroom toilet valve is. We have extremely hard water, so I’m assuming it’s due to that. But the toilet tank isn’t filling with water, I think I have to replace this valve but it seems like there’s foam tape to try and stop a leak? How do I replace this? And I’m assuming I need to replace the trim too because it’s rotted from the leak. And I’m not sure how to get the gross scum off the floor. 🤦 what a mess. link to pic Edit to add the house was only built in 1997

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Frosty-Start-4559 t1_j1u9q38 wrote

Shut water off. Cut the tape with a utility knife. Use two wrenches to remove the valve, one to hold the valve, the other to loosen the nut on both ends of the valve. It will be tight. Two wrenches are required to keep from twisting the pipe. After you remove the valve, clean the pipe with a piece of Emory cloth, then inspect. There may be a little copper ring over the pipe, it is part of the compression fitting on the supply end. If damaged, it looks like there is room to cut about 3/4” of the pipe off with a tubing cutter. Install new valve with compression fitting. Tighten well and test by turning water back on, slowly. You can do this!

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clambo14 t1_j1uem6y wrote

>shut the water off to the house

To clarify.

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geek66 t1_j1unz8l wrote

To add, drain the system from a lower location, like a hose bib, or downstairs sink.

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coolhandluke45 t1_j1ut4ew wrote

It's probably the fill valve in the toilet not the shutoff. You won't be wasting your time replacing the shutoff though. But if it's not actively leaking I'd 100% start with the fill valve first.

Source: 14 year journeyman plumber.

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Cindexxx t1_j1xjh94 wrote

Source: Google noob of 3 years.

The shutoff leak and fill valve leak should be obvious. If it's not, wtf lol. It should be.

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subpoenaThis t1_j1usbny wrote

Buy all the parts you might use first. If possible at least two ways of doing it.

You don’t want to discover that you can’t get parts and you can’t put the old one back on so you have no water in your house.

Also quarter turn for the win.

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Slokunshialgo t1_j1zwznl wrote

Had this recently when replacing one of these valves. Despite cleaning it, the pipe had a deformation that stopped the ring from crimping properly, and lead to a slight leak. I didn't have another ring to try again further back, and all the stores were closed.

Guess who now has a compression shutoff soldered onto their toilet supply.

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Blackoutsmackout t1_j1ufmeq wrote

What are the chances of this pipe is corroded beyond what is visible?

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Tu_mama_me_ama_mucho t1_j1ul16k wrote

99%

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Blackoutsmackout t1_j1v2w7y wrote

So reddits best advice offers no solution if things go wrong.

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GoodGoodGoody t1_j1v4nie wrote

So buck up and offer it yourself. (Hint, you feed new copper or Pex to the location after pulling out the old. No biggie.).

Stop being a whiny complainer.

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Blackoutsmackout t1_j1w10w1 wrote

you make it sound pretty easy

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ElGuapo315 t1_j1wqpfh wrote

Just hold the torch on the copper until the flame starts to turn green... Easy lol.

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GoodGoodGoody t1_j1w2w9d wrote

It is and you make you sound not too bright.

Either ask a question here or answer it but don’t whine. There are whole other reddit subs for that nonsense.

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Blackoutsmackout t1_j1wuxdx wrote

OP not gonna update whats behind that repair tape so there is no point to this thread

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Godmadius t1_j1ulbwr wrote

It's not really corrosion so much as mineral buildup from the water, so if the pipe is original to the house the chances are pretty high that its blocked up pretty good. I'm not sure if there is a roto-rooter type action you can do to clear that up, or if you just have to replace all the pipes over time.

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motoduki t1_j1usnva wrote

You can also get a tool for pulling the compression ring off without cutting the pipe, assuming the pipe is still in good condition.

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pattyG80 t1_j1xpv3f wrote

After shutting the water off to the house, run the water in a basement sink or as low as you can get to drain your pipes. Sometimes, there's a valve right next to the main cutoff that allows you to drain the system. Otherwise, when you disconnect the toilet valve, you'll get wet.

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Yummy-Beetle-Juice t1_j1xsdho wrote

Great advice! One thing to add, it appears to be a 3/8" hose connection to the valve.

It also might be a fill valve issue in the tank. If it only fills partially up, have you adjusted the float in the tank?

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PostingSomeToast t1_j1vyw3r wrote

I'm trying to see that as a compression valve.....lol Usually I see a few threads under the nut.

It's got to be tightened absolutely to the top of the threads, so maybe the copper isn't pushed through the brass ferrule? That could be causing the leak.

It almost looks like it has a cpvc cconnector on the bottom of the nut.

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Interesting-Dish8894 t1_j1u5cga wrote

This is going to snowball on you

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BoringBob84 t1_j1uy9pg wrote

So, it is a standard project, then. /silly

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Modifierf6 t1_j1xsibw wrote

Lmao. Yeah 5 years into buying house. Every project started small warped into much larger commitments. We are slow learners..😂😂

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BoringBob84 t1_j1zlb1l wrote

It has taken us a few years just to "fix" our broken closet door:

  • We "had to" upgrade to new and better doors.
  • We "had to" tear out the old shelves, repair the drywall, and paint.
  • We "had to" build and install new shelves.
  • We had to modify the door frames and rails (because they were not square, nor a standard size) to fit in the space.
  • We had to repair the damage to the wall from the mistakes.
  • Then, we could finally install the new doors and haul the old doors and hardware to the landfill.

... standard scope creep! ;)

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Slokunshialgo t1_j1zxkxu wrote

If it makes you feel better, we started renovating our bathroom in February.

Ripping out old half-wall tile, replacing the floor, new tub, shower walls, then floor-to-ceiling wall tile.

Not a lot of scope creep, just a lot of scope. We're finally finishing it this week...

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Modifierf6 t1_j23jqhl wrote

Pulled paneling off in a breezeway/and the garage to find electric lines not counter sunk behind studs. Didn’t have to but felt compelled in case my kids take the house and because I’m likely to “forget” where the lines are behind drywall! Had to upgrade the flooring because it was carpet that coming loose and would be a terrible idea in a gym/shop floor for everyone to trip with power tools and weights on the shoulders. These are things we didn’t think of till after we started. And since this is are first seems like don’t think about that stuff till after we’ve already dug in and done reconstruction. Our next big project is a remodel of an old bathroom in the basement. Wish us luck!😂😂

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Modifierf6 t1_j23jtif wrote

What is scope creep?? I’m lost

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BoringBob84 t1_j24dbho wrote

Sometimes, I hear friends complain that their contractor called and "wants more money" because they found some unexpected surprises in the course of the job.

There could be cases where the contractor is looking for excuses to increase the scope of the job, but I have done enough jobs myself to know that unpleasant surprises are the rule, rather than the exception. When it is safety-related (like the improperly-installed wiring that you discovered), then it is dangerous to ignore it.

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burtcoal t1_j1u4wvr wrote

Peel off the tape to see where the leak is coming from. It may just be a pinhole, maybe it's a crack. If the leak is coming from high enough on the pipe then your simplest bet will be cut the tube and use a sharkbite fitting to replace the valve. They sell shark bites that already have the valve on it. Just remember to shut the water off to the house before you cut that line. If you aren't comfortable doing repairs then get a professional.

For removing the stuff off the floor you can try CLR or even vinegar.

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SixtyTwoNorth t1_j1wuadn wrote

I'm pretty sure OP does NOT want to peel off that tape without being ready to completely replace that pipe.

The stuff on the floor looks like it may be some sort of epoxy/sealer to keep the leaky pipe from running down.

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burtcoal t1_j1wvc3n wrote

I would bet the green is from the oxidation on that valve/pipe being flushed down by the leak

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JAREDSAVAGE t1_j1uglnm wrote

Don’t listen to anyone telling you to cut or fix this with a new fitting. That pipe is very corroded and appears to have been wrapped to stop a pinhole leak. The rest of the pipe that isn’t visible is likely in just as bad shape and needs to be inspected. My money is on it being just as bad as the small portion we see.

It’s going to be more work, but you need to replace all of the pipe that is in this condition. If it’s not already leaking under the floor, it will be in the near future.

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BoringBob84 t1_j1uyplh wrote

I think that, once they remove that tape, they will know more. Maybe someone over-tightened the compression nut and then added the tape to cover the leak.

That is a different problem than a crack or corrosion hole in the pipe itself.

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JAREDSAVAGE t1_j1v32l4 wrote

Definitely difficult to know from a single photo, but given the amount of copper acetate that’s showing, my gut says the pipe isn’t in good shape.

Dealing with similar stuff myself these days, and I’ve found that it’s best to yank and replace clean when encountering this kind of thing. 100-year old buildings are fun.

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BoringBob84 t1_j1v8iu0 wrote

You are probably correct. Our house is "only" 50 years old, so things are only half as messed up. ;).

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Due-Reading6335 t1_j1tu0ce wrote

Try posting this on r/Plumbing as well 👍

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Natural-You4322 t1_j1tvhxb wrote

redo all the piping.

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Mammoth-Pain-358 t1_j1wcfsn wrote

This is the only proper solution. This is in bad condition. I would replace everything. I think you would be best to call a plumber.

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robosmrf t1_j1um02y wrote

Do you have a crawlspace or basement? If this was me I would plan on removing back to below the floor and possibly stubbing up inside the wall.

Floor valves like this get exposed to all kinds of bathroom cleaners and toilet splash and will corrode faster.

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tuenthe463 t1_j1uo9ew wrote

If it's an exterior wall it could be frozen based on your geography. Had to run a space heater in our powderoom overnight in Xmas Eve to thaw it (Eastern PA/high of 7). Woke up to a full tank.

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namsur1234 t1_j1uqur5 wrote

Very good point if it's an issue following the weather. If this turns out to be the solution, OP should keep this on the list of things to address asap.

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Dewey_Decimated t1_j1ukij6 wrote

You can try replacing the flexible supply line first—I’ve had those become obstructed with god knows what I’m the past, making the toilet really slow to fill. But as others have said, don’t try to just replace the valve, you’ll need to replace some lengths of pipe as well. Looks like it may be galvanized, in which case you can screw some new pieces together or replace with copper or sharkbite. As for the floor, don’t worry too much about how to clean it, if it were me I’d just live with it until it’s time to replace. This bathroom likely needs to be redone!

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MaFugginJesus t1_j1v5pdm wrote

Before you even consider touching it...are you sure? It could be the flapper just not catching the seal, and a slow stream of water slipping down the tube. Is the water in the bowl moving slightly? Fill it with a bucket of water and check for a leak...

Second, check your way backward, from the toilet to the main line. There could be another backup shutoff valve somewhere you're not familiar with.

If you don't have the slightest clue how to solder...figure it out before you get started.

That plumbing aisle is loaded with confusion for a greenhand...figure out what that pipe diameter is. Take a pic with a tape measure across it for security to hook up someone assisting you in the store.

Trigger start torch propane kit, solder, flux, pipe cutter, deburring tool, pipe brush, 2 adjustable wrenches, teflon tape, flexible toilet hose, valve, potentially a flapper kit (toilet guts), adjustable spanner wrench (I think it's called?), and I'm not 100% if that's all you need.

If you got a backup valve to work with...it looks like you could potentially pull that valve apart at the knob, and clear any blockages, before you even head out the door.

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US_Dept_Of_Snark t1_j1wafg0 wrote

Based on the fact that the bottom part of this pipe is wrapped up like a mummy --I'm assuming this is their unfortunate solution trying to prevent some existing leaking there.

I've done some DIY, plumbing and copper work, so I'm not afraid of that. However, based on your description in the picture, and knowing that big problems can come from water leaks, if it were me, it would be worth it to me to just call a plumber.

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tinkerb3lll t1_j1u8on7 wrote

At some point you may want to call in a professional, even just for an estimate and see what they say.

You likely going to need to pull up some flooring and replace the pipe which you probably should do, water damage can get expensive fast if not dealt with before it happens.

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Ok-Dot8209 t1_j1ukuru wrote

Had this exact issue recently. Plumber cost $500 to change out valve in metro Atlanta.

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tinkerb3lll t1_j24c46p wrote

They not cheap for sure, but at the end of the day I would pay $500 to clean up this issue as it looks like ticking time bomb, anyone who has had water damage knows it could run in to the 10's of thousands, so you never want to get to that point ever. It's doable yourself, just need some tools and confidence.

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Redawg660 t1_j1v1xg9 wrote

Seeing the tape on the pipe and everything else my inspection would start under the bathroom floor to determine what else may be lurking out of sight for leaks and damaged structure. Then if it looks decent I would start t working the problem upstairs. Then at some point I might call my brother-in-law for his opinion. He will show up, get down on his knees to look more closely, show his incessant plumbers crack and ruin my entire day. Lol.

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squaredistrict2213 t1_j1viwj0 wrote

Do you have access from below? If so, I’d just run a new pipe from the basement to a new valve and supply line. The valve in the toilet tank could also have a lot of build up in it.

Also, get a water softener to prevent this issue from continuing.

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useyoursignal t1_j1vjk64 wrote

Replace the hose that goes from the valve to the tank as well if it looks old - cheap insurance.

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604_heatzcore t1_j1vrjj6 wrote

Process of elimination. Shut the valve off. Loosen the supply line a little bit. If water comes out it's not the valve. That being said I'd change the valve and the line anyway they don't look to be in good shape

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JonJackjon t1_j1w0d6y wrote

Others have described the basic process. The only thing I can add is to purchase a good quality replacement valve. And that valve should be a 1/4 turn ball valve, not the one in your photo.

I would suggest a plumbing store and not a big box store.

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wbsgrepit t1_j1wc3a9 wrote

My advice is get a plumber out there and have them replace every one of those in the house. Those things fail over time and you don’t want to be in a position where you don’t have working ones when you need them. You could save money and do it yourself if you know what you are doing.

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Raul_McCai t1_j1x3a7d wrote

what is under that floor?

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ratalini t1_j1ums1q wrote

You recently bought the house, and hopefully got it inspected beforehand. What does the inspection report say about the plumbing?

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