Submitted by Jolly-Performer t3_zzpyxq in DIY

I’m hanging a jolly jumper for my 15 lbs. kiddo, it’s basically a swing for babies that bounces up and down. It’s meant to hook onto the trim on both sides of a doorway.

But I am hanging it from an entryway that has no trim. So I’d like to add just a few inches of trim to each side to hang the swing from, but I can’t find a good stud to fasten to.

The opening is lined with 1x6 on the top and sides.

Should I fasten the bit of trim to the 1” edge, or should I attach a bracket of some sort by screwing straight up into the 6” face? Which would hold more weight pulling straight down on it?



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Lurkesalot t1_j2d0ltk wrote

Definitely the bracket if you can rig something up. If you add molding around the entry, it's gonna take way more time, and you'll be anchoring to something held on by finishing nails as opposed to screws.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2dba5b wrote

Yeah the whole "hang it from the door trim" design has me nervous but I haven't seen any reports of mishaps. I had been thinking wide L brackets or maybe the right beam bracket, but after some thoughtful comments here I'm going to avoid screwing up (no pun intended and yet, there it is).


Marcus_Marinara t1_j2d0vio wrote

So door frames structurally are pretty different from just having a 1x6 on each side, and if you’re not finding studs above the door I’d be a little concerned. Even if this is designed to utilize trim it’s still reliant on that framing to support the weight.

15 lbs doesn’t seem like much until it’s bouncing like nonstop, and worse case here is you bring some shoddy framing down on your little one.

To answer your question though, no matter what you should screw horizontally. There’s some mechanical advantages and less failure modes.

Probably I’m just being overly anxious, though.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2d9fge wrote

No, you're right. The jumper was designed for trim fastened to a door frame, not my 1x6 ideas. And I'm asking for help because I absolutely don't want to risk anything with kiddo. So, thank you.

My magnet says there are studs up there, but they are offset depending on which face (the one you see and the one in the far room). I was trying to avoid adding trim around the entire opening to span multiple studs, when I just need a couple inches in the middle to hook onto. But I don't think it's gonna work.

Thanks for confirming horizontal - screwing straight up is literally hanging by a thread.


Spacebrother t1_j2dfedz wrote

Kids are a lot stronger than we give them credit for, I would probbaly leave a 100% margin for error and rate the fixture for 30-35lbs instead, just to be safe.

If space is no concern, there are floor based jumpers that have wheels and toys attached, which I found worked better for my kiddo as there were more things to keep him entertained, plus he could sorta move around which made him very happy.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2esfc5 wrote

Yep, and I expect he's not done growing, either! I was looking at the tall / wide metal frame models but kiddo got this one as a christmas gift. I'm grateful and trying to make it work, but the ones you're describing do sound appealing. Thanks for the tip. I've seen pictures of myself in the old school wheeled ones and I looked pretty happy.

I can't believe how strong this baby is... if he doesn't want his leg to bend, you're not bending it. If he doesn't want his bottle, you're not getting it into his mouth. And during diaper changes, he's a BJJ blackbelt.


WISteven t1_j2dd5kh wrote

How do you KNOW that the wood around the opening is a 1x6?


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2dfavk wrote

If you stand in the entryway and look up, it's clearly a single board of wood, so there's the 6. And if you step back and look at the face of the entryway, you can see the faint outline of the 1" where the drywall isn't completely flush with the edge of the board.

The house was built in the 50's and had some work done in the 70's, and I don't always understand why things were built the way they were. I hope I didn't misunderstand your question. But it's kind of irrelevant now, I'm taking some sound advice here and looking for framing members in the wall rather than fastening to that board.


WISteven t1_j2djnaq wrote

That board that you are seeing is likely just a 1x6 that was placed over the rough framing which should be a 2x.

In this case my guess is that you have 2 1/4" of solid material all the way around that opening. Good luck.


1955photo t1_j2d2mlj wrote

There has to be a header board across the top of the opening, or it would collapse.

Get a long screw and drive it in until you feel more resistance. That will tell you how long your screws need to be.

Don't underestimate the force that will be acting on the screws. That child is going to grow fast, and they get wild in those jumpers.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2dcfre wrote

Thank you, I'm not very experienced and I was having a hard time imagining the structure behind the wall. But after googling header board :) I see what you're saying. I might try probing with my 1/16 drill bit first, if it's long enough. If I can find something solid to fasten to, I don't have to use door trim, I can use good 2x2 or maybe something like a french cleat. Thanks for looking out for my kiddo with your advice.


1955photo t1_j2e37ez wrote

You can put the screw eye directly into the header board. That transfers some of the load to the vertical framing.


muckpucker t1_j2dklmx wrote

None of the comments that I've seen here reflect real world construction standards. Stud walls are made from 2x4s that are actually 3 and 5/8 in wide, a layer of 1/2-in drywall on each side results in a finished wall that is 4 and 5/8 thick. The header beam over the doorway should be at least a 2x6 which means they're solid wood from 1/2 in. up from the bottom edge that extends upward 5 and 5/8 in. Some conditions require a 2x6 wall stud with corresponding increases in size for the header. Usually the addition of drywall corner bead creates an out of plane condition whereby the corner bead extends a little bit past the flat face of the drywall. Doorways that have actual door jambs installed do not have corner bead, The trim around the door jamb lands flat on the wall. Because you have corner beads any trim you add will angle out away from the wall a little bit. If it were me I would find a piece of deck board which measures actual 1 in thick and screw that up to the header, making sure my deck board was a little bit wider than the opening which I presume to be 4 and 5/8 in.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2f1jl1 wrote

Yep, you nailed it. I called it a 1x6 for simplicity, but yes, it does measure 4-5/8. I figured it was a 1x5 nominal (if there is such a thing) and wondered why they used such an odd dimension. I get it now. The board is just ripped to fit the frame.

I think you're saying the sides of the entry are framed with 2x4 wall studs, and there's a single 2x6 above the entry, with the 2" edge centered on the 4" faces of the studs.

Omgosh, and that's why on a separate project hanging curtain rods, I was going through drywall, finding open space behind it, but then kept hitting solid wood no matter where I drilled. I wasn't hitting vertical studs, I was hitting the horizontal window header. Which is probably a 1/2 inch back from the drywall... Thank you.


athermalwill t1_j2dn45q wrote

That depends on the strength of the fastener(s). Vertically, coarse thread screws. Horizontally, nails have the most sheer strength.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2f3u4t wrote

Oh, right, because unthreaded is stronger sheer strength than threaded. Believe it or not I worked in the fastener dept. of a hardware store not long ago. I was hoping to learn some home repair while I looked for a better job but I didn't learn much at all.

I did learn to try to steer people to a through bolt with nut/washer instead of a wood screw when hanging overhead. It's amazing the things people tried to hang from the ceiling with an eye screw...


athermalwill t1_j2f7bhm wrote

It’s not just the design. The steel nails are made from is stronger. Unless you’re using a structural screw. Those are very strong.


surfeat t1_j2dx480 wrote

Don't hang your kid. You must learn to love them.😜


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2f7zmc wrote

My first try at posting this was more... nuanced, but I broke every rule of the sub. Brainstorming ideas, how to "get started", best method or approach, whether or not I should do a project...

I rewrote it to ask specific questions and it came out wrong. I promise not to harm the boy until he's a teenager. After that he gets the Homer Simpson treatment.


mermaldad t1_j2d2kjk wrote

It probably doesn't matter that much because the 1x6 should be attached to a 2x4 above it. Note that the 1x6 is only 3/4" thick, so it's a somewhat smaller target than you might think. You will want to use a pretty thick screw eye, especially if you are mounting it horizontally.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2da5xg wrote

Yeah... small target, thin screws, and not much wood supporting them even if I hit dead center of the 3/4" edge. Thanks for weighing in. I guess I need to poke through the drywall and find that 2x4...


ToolMeister t1_j2dlygo wrote

Properly installed, either horizontal or vertical should hold 15 lbs no problem, however horizontal would be stronger.

Don't screw into just the 1x6, if anything you need to drill through the jamb and screw directly into structure inside the wall.

This boils down to...what is easier to patch in a year - a hole in the drywall o a hole in the top jamb?

That opening definitely has some header above it. Either drill a lag bolt through the top jamb into the header or through the face of the wall into the header. Make sure the bolt is at least 1 inch deep into the header.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2f62ys wrote

Thank you, I'm not great at wall repair so that's definitely a consideration. We just repainted the whole house after some professional drywall help so I'm not in a rush to put too many holes in the wall that I can't fix nicely. But I do think I can patch the drywall better than the jamb a year from now.


Bldaz t1_j2dph6f wrote

That opening undoubtedly has 2x framing inside predrill into that sink screws bolts whatever into it vertically or horizontally by min 2” you are done it with hold you up


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2f6ob5 wrote

Yep, thanks to everyone who commented, that's what I'm going to do.


TheFishBanjo t1_j2dygui wrote

If I understand correctly, that swing just needs a lip to hang on, on each side.

If it was my problem, here's something I know would work.

I have two long drill bits (12"). One is 3/16", the other is 3/8". I'd drill from one side all the way through to the other side. I'd put holes about 1" up from the corner and another set about 3" up.

Then, I'd drill matching holes into some wood that we're adding to make the necessary lips. I'd attach the wood using threaded 1/4" rod with good sized washers to spread out the load.

I'd tighten those bolts until the wood was crushed by the washers (assuming pine, it will crush 1/8").

At that point, you'd have metal bolts to carry the shear force and there's no 15 baby that could rip that down.

Paint white.

When the day comes to remove the swing, you just have a few drywall holes to patch and paint.


Jolly-Performer OP t1_j2f9din wrote

Thanks, my original thought was a bolt or two through the wall, but I didn't understand there's a header in there, so I thought it they would only be supported by drywall. I would blame that on sleep deprivation but I'm kind of an idiot fully rested as well.

I don't understand the part about 3/16 & 3/8 holes for 1/4" rod but I'm sure it will make sense after some thought and more learning.


TheFishBanjo t1_j2fv5ka wrote

Those just happen to be the drill bits I have.

If you get a single 1/4" drill bit 12" long, that will work.

I didn't want to drive to the store. Ha!


nixiebunny t1_j2e4r1p wrote

Screws are much stronger in shear than tension. Use a bracket from the sides rather than trusting the life of your kid to a wood screw in tension.


more_than_just_ok t1_j2eizp2 wrote

The rough opening is almost certainy framed in 2x4. If you wall is 4.5" thick, for example. The safest option is to screw a 2.5" or 3" eye screw through the trim and deep into the rough frame underneath. Hang from the screw yourself to test it, then attach the jolly jumper with a carabiner to the loop below the clamp. My parents used a hook, not an eye screw and occaaional i could jump the spring off the hook. My kids had the over the trim clamp version until we moved to a house with no trim. It is the best baby product ever. I hope your kid enjoys it.


elSuavador t1_j2ejxeb wrote

Are you saying it’s a 1x6 because the drywall is slightly feathered out around the opening? If so then check again as that might just be the corner bead. A 1x6 trim around an opening would typically not be flush to the drywall - it would tend to crack even with mud and tape.

Is the wall 6 1/2” thick from drywall to drywall? If so then that’s at 2x6 framed wall which would only be used in an interior for either plumbing or structural reasons. If it’s structural then the header above the opening will be solid lumber and you’re golden. Just screw the brackets into the header - that could also explain why the stud finder is finding offset studs since it would be picking up the nails not the studs.


JonJackjon t1_j2f8k64 wrote

I would get a real heavy Eye bolt maybe a 1/4 " (I like Stainless steel) Screw it right into the 1 x 6. Test to see that it holds you.


rsogoodlooking t1_j2fmri6 wrote

I'd go horizontal too. Having said that my kid was a whale of a baby, 26lbs at 6 months. God knows how much he weighed when he got into that jumper. Money never better spent. He'd spend HOURS bouncing on that thing.... NAP....and then wake up drowsy with a few tiny bounces. Throw him a snack and hes good to go for more bouncing! Then he masters regular bouncing and advances to directional bouncing to hit the dog. Great days for you, dont miss a second unless you're napping. Long story long, we were dumb and young and we never reinforced any threshold