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[deleted] OP t1_j24q3tj wrote

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lemonylol t1_j251tc2 wrote

Use a drill bit and go through the center of the premade hole, then from the top align the drill bit in the center of the hole saw with that hole. You could also use a plunge router if you have one after drilling the alignment hole.

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Tack122 t1_j25gxnc wrote

I've never seen a stone/concrete hole saw with a centering bit.

Is that a thing?

Also, plunge router for stone/concrete is sus.

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25vs5j wrote

No, they don't give us pilot bits in our hole saws. They would just snap off.

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Tack122 t1_j25w323 wrote

Well you'd need a hammer drill for a center bit in stone/concrete. Just spinny would grind off the tip and you'd never sink in.

I could imagine some sort of complicated dual clutched system where the hole saw rides on a hammer drilling center bit, but that'd be a very specialized drill.

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25zhn4 wrote

We can't use ANY hammer drill on stone tops, the many repeated impacts will eventually cause failure in the material. Some may work, most won't. Quartz is made up of about 93% natural Quartz chips, and the rest an epoxy binder resin. It's heated and pressed together in a huge line, and when cooled is extremely durable, but if you start creating point heat/impacts nearing the manufacturing process, all bets are off.

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100GbE t1_j267g21 wrote

Diamond tip bits work well in tile, stone masonry - don't need to use hammer either.

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Hittinuhard t1_j25x5m2 wrote

Yes. Some core bits have a center bit. We have diamond coated router bits that we use with a large water feed to keep the bits cool.

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lemonylol t1_j26ntwm wrote

Ah, just assumed they had them, did not know.

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Hittinuhard t1_j25wxq2 wrote

The problem with coming up from the bottom is that you can blow the face out. If it's a marble or granite type surface it wouldn't be able to handle the heat and have fun trying to use water to keep the bit cool while working underneath the sink.

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[deleted] OP t1_j25u807 wrote

[deleted]

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25xt5f wrote

Ok, you don't want to try from underneath! You can easily locate the hole that you want to use from underneath, and transfer your measurements to the top. Cover the top area w/ blue tape so you can make marks. All of the holes should be on an even number measurement, MOST are 4" center to center. So locate the center of the faucet hole from underneath, by using the very back of the circle, that's the center. Now measure to the center of the hole you want to use. I would guess it will be 8" or 12". With that measurement, go up top and find the center of your faucet at the back of it, and measure to the center of where you want the new hole. So now you have the side to side located. The front to back is simply the same distance from the wall as the center of the faucet, 90 degrees from where the center is on the back. The quartz is NOT friendly on ANY drill bit! I believe HD has a diamond tipped line that I made work, but you might need 2. Go at least 1 size larger than the minimum, the flange will give you plenty of wiggle room. Source: am countertop guy, that builds as a hobby.

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Mhog42 t1_j25icmp wrote

This is a good answer that’ll remove any guesswork.

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NewAlternative4738 t1_j256ahf wrote

I think this is smart. Find the spec sheet on your sink. It will be on the manufacturer’s website. That will provide the exact measurements on where your hole is located

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asjtj t1_j25vb5o wrote

There should be a template with it. If you installed the sink recently you might still have it or online.

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