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Supreme-Bob t1_j6fix4f wrote

Steps to try

  • Penitrating fluid
  • Pipe on your wrench/allen key to make handle longer for more leverage
  • Blow torch to heat it, this helps to free the rust
  • Angle grinder to just cut it off
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GoodGoodGoody t1_j6frfmw wrote

If op is asking how to remove this simple bolt they def don’t know how dangerous an angle grinder is in untrained hands. Pls use common sense when recommending things.

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GargantuanGorgon t1_j6gmsx0 wrote

You're getting downvoted but you deserve better -- everything you're saying about this is the voice of reason and experience. Perhaps a popularity contest is not the best way to determine the relevance or quality of an idea.

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[deleted] t1_j6frm8i wrote

[removed]

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GoodGoodGoody t1_j6fu9jc wrote

Well, I work on a lot of old bikes and have never once needed an angle grinder but I’m sure you’re an expert.

Just like I’m sure

-You won’t have difficulty getting even a small grinder in that tight space

-Op, who based on the question is clearly inexperienced won’t overcut into the relatively soft and thin frame, and that kickstand area is where three structural members join (actually four members)

-Op surely has the correct cutting disc and face shield, right?

But ok, your advice to use a grinder is Aces.

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Supreme-Bob t1_j6fv51h wrote

So then you'd know you should be able to flip the bike upside down and cut the bottom bracket off from the underside, right?

Yet you have no issue with the blow torch idea (grease, paint, rubber, fire, etc.)?

I'm here to give ideas and try to be helpful, not hold hands.

You have a great day now.

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GoodGoodGoody t1_j6fvxrb wrote

I know

  • The bottom bracket, pedal arms and wheel are in the way, even from underneath

  • even if you remove the wheel the irregular shape of the bottom half of the kickstand makes grinding difficult and will lead to skipping the disc in inexperienced hands

I’ve done this exact repair several times. You haven’t a clue what you’re talking about or how to do this repair efficiently, safely, or without risk of collateral damage.

Further, not sure where you got the dumb idea that I agree with the torch idea. If you could read I actually said it was unnecessary.

Have a great day yourself.

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S_Orbital OP t1_j6g6y3c wrote

Thank you for the suggestions! I think the easiest thing to try first is the pipe to gain additional leverage. Given all the things that I have tried, my strength has been one of the limiting factors. Other options such as power tools or heating aren't practical in my case. I'd like to avoid spending singificant amounts here.

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AltruisticMonkey t1_j6g8kbe wrote

To follow up with this, I've found heat followed by penetrating oil while it's still WARM (not hot) to help. I think it helps the oil penetrate better. Let sit 24 hours. Hope that helps, good luck!

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wiga_nut t1_j6jw7ua wrote

In lieu of a angle grinder a simple metal hack saw blade would do the trick and be safer, if you can't get the bolt to turn

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Starstriker t1_j6hyger wrote

Whack it with a hammer to loosen some of the rust inside, then oil.

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rolltododge t1_j6fk5m1 wrote

also, metal gets pliable/compliant when hot so it's easier to get stuff moving.

downvotes? metal expands and gets much softer when it gets hot... and thus a hole in a piece of metal expands making it easier to remove things that are stuck..

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choochoopants t1_j6hgjpg wrote

Yes metal expands when it gets hotter, but you’re not applying heat to “make the hole bigger.” When metal expands, it expands in all directions, not just out. You’re also not trying to soften the metal. Given that your next step is to apply torque, it would be counter-productive to make the metal pliable.

Different metals expand at different rates when heated, and this difference will cause the rust bond that has formed between the nut and the bolt to break loose. That’s why heat works.

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