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ICYaLata t1_j6b2c1z wrote

Ground wire is not the problem. Switch should only control the Hot wire.
1)Do you have 120v at the line side of your switch?
2)Do you have 120v on the load side of the switch when it's on? 3)Do you have continuity of the hot conductor from switch to your fixture? 4)Are you sure your fixture works? 5) are all your connections secure and properly done?

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Cappuccino_Crunch OP t1_j6b43t6 wrote

Ok with switch in off position and wires not connected to fixture: The neutral reads 120v and the hot zero. With it in the on position both read 120v. That's the light fixture.

The hot wire from the source always reads 120v regardless. The wire at the switch going to the fixture reads zero when the switch is turned off and 120 when on. The neutral wires are capped and the grounds are spliced with a pigtail to the green screw.

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Cappuccino_Crunch OP t1_j6b4gx9 wrote

I purchased another fixture and light switch earlier today so I don't think that's the issue. Should the neutral at the fixture be reading 120 with the switch flipped to off?

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ICYaLata t1_j6b4ws3 wrote

Why is your neutral reading 120? There should be no voltage on your neutral unless its part of a closed circuit. Are you sure your wires? Older houses did not pull neutrals to switches and often used a white wire in the pair as a switched or hot leg. You may want to post a couple pictures.

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Cappuccino_Crunch OP t1_j6b6ih1 wrote

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ICYaLata t1_j6b7lj7 wrote

Take the lamp out, and with the switch on, check if the socket has power. If you read 120v at the socket, it's the lamp. Or the metal plate at the bottom of the fixture isn't making contact with the lamp.

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Cappuccino_Crunch OP t1_j6b8ixz wrote

Switch on, both hot and neutral reads 120 disconnected and separated at the ceiling. Switch off, the neutral reads 120 but the hot reads zero.

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ICYaLata t1_j6b97b1 wrote

How are you measuring voltage on the neutral? One prong on the neutral, the other on the ground? Or are you using a voltage sensor?

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