How do I prevent condensation on the windows from causing water to accumulate on the windowsill?

Submitted by teddythepooh99 t3_10p9q2x in DIY

I moved from the south to a city with cold weather (Chicago) a couple months ago. I live in a studio apartment, where I have been keeping the temp at 70F since the winter. I noticed the condensation in the windows causes water to accumulate on the windowsill:

https://imgur.com/a/ukyYpFu

It doesn’t pool enough to spill onto the floor, but I’m concerned it will cause mold on the windows. What can I do before I put in a work order (if necessary) with my property management company?

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amoore031184 t1_j6j3zm7 wrote

You can ventilate the room, which is kind of hard in the winter, and expensive.

You can dehumidify the room.

You can circulate the air in the room better, this may or may not solve the problem but its worth a try.

Or, you can buy those plastic window covers that stick to the frame with double sided tape. Its clear plastic film you hit with a hair dryer afterward. It shrinks the film and makes it nice and tight so you can still see out the windows no problem. Frostking is the brand I usually see in the stores.

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guy_guyerson t1_j6jwnkv wrote

I bet ventilating briefly with an open window is going to be cheaper than running a dehumidifier unless the heat is insanely expensive (baseboard electric at a high electric rate or something).

The Germans are super into this.

> "The correct way to ventilate a home is to employ the Stoßlüften, or shock ventilation method. You open your windows completely for three minutes if it's windy, five to 10 minutes if it's not," said Raymond Galvin, a researcher at the University of Aachen and Cambridge, who has written extensively about energy efficiency in Germany.

https://www.politico.eu/article/germanys-energy-efficiency-open-windows-ventilation/

In my experience, if you open a window in cold weather you can watch a hygrometer tick down very quickly in real time. Once the humidity is down, you're home free unless you create more without using an exhaust fan (bath or kitchen, for example) or the weather warms up with accompanying high humidity again. Then it's time for another quick shock.

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neutralbystander11 t1_j6k077w wrote

Sometimes, you kinda need it though? My house does this when it's super cold and the interior humidity is only at like 30%RH. I'd rather have wet windows than it get any drier in here

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oconnellc t1_j6k2k2h wrote

> you kinda need it though? My house does this when it's super cold and the interior humid

Run a small fan on the lowest setting. Just the tiniest bit of air moving will do wonders for getting rid of this.

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MagicSPA t1_j6jyhij wrote

I moved into my own flat a few years ago and discovered the principle of Stoßlüften completely independently! When it's windy, I absolutely open the windows and doors for a few minutes, cold or not, just to change the air.

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teuchuno t1_j6k9x4s wrote

Aye, every morning I go round, open all the curtains and the windows, then close the windows half an hour or so later - no problems. If it's really cold I just mop the condensation off with a cloth (but still open the windows).

Admittedly this is North Wales so not as cold as Chicago, but our houses in the UK are so old and shite that it's still necessary.

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Blackoutsmackout t1_j6jrxfd wrote

I used tape and plastic on a window like this, solved the issue.

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missionbeach t1_j6jwo7n wrote

And it adds an extra layer of insulation against the cold.

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DancingDust t1_j6k7rtf wrote

I second that. This method works really well with condensation issue.

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TwoIdleHands t1_j6jxl3z wrote

I second this. I used to use 3M on some huge windows. Works great, no condensation, and has the added benefit of keeping your place warmer so you spend less on heating. Plus the tape always came off fine in the spring (important for a rental!). Just make sure everything is dry before you apply it otherwise you’re losing in the moisture.

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blitzzerg t1_j6k2z4m wrote

We always install the frostking plastic and then the condensation happens in the plastic. It happens less often though

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gw2master t1_j6k5zrk wrote

> Or, you can buy those plastic window covers that stick to the frame with double sided tape. Its clear plastic film you hit with a hair dryer afterward.

I highly recommend this for lowering your heating bill in the winter.

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pilotdog68 t1_j6jydk0 wrote

I'm not sure this solves the problem. That plastic is for reducing drafts. If you shrink it tight it will stop a draft but the surface will be just as cold as the window, and you will get condensation on the plastic itself.

If you don't shrink it tight, then the trapped air will still be humid

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Hagenaar t1_j6jz7qy wrote

A plastic film acts like an extra pane in a multipane window. Even though it's just air trapped between plastic and glass (not argon) the added space acts as an additional insulation layer.

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pilotdog68 t1_j6k9agn wrote

But that is only if you don't shrink it tight. If you do, the plastic is in contact with window, no air gap right?

So you would want to shrink it some but not all the way, and preferably seal it with dry air inside or else you'll just get condensation inside the plastic.

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Hagenaar t1_j6kasq0 wrote

We're talking about different products I just realized.

Consumer install window film is stuck on with two sided tape to the inside of the frame. This creates a gap from the windows which are recessed from the plane of the wall surface. You put the plastic over the window trim like so.

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brainwater314 t1_j6k3333 wrote

I don't think these trap air. Instead, I think it has to do with the "impedance mismatch" between the glass and plastic making the heat not conduct as well. Put simply, heat doesn't conduct well between different materials. Imagine one material is a bunch of marbles bouncing around, and another is a bunch of bowling balls bouncing around. The energy wouldn't transfer well when the marbles and bowling balls hit each other.

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Pleasant_Carpenter37 t1_j6k5qj9 wrote

They do trap air. You tape them to the frame, so there's an air layer between the window pane and the plastic.

It sounds like you're describing something that you'd stick directly to the glass. That's another option, but AFAIK it helps less than the air-trap type of plastic sheeting.

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Hagenaar t1_j6k5hz3 wrote

Plastic film works the same as a glass storm window. There is an element of a physical substance separating the warmer and cooler air, but it's largely the trapped air because it conducts heat so poorly, it's an invisible heat blanket.

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BlueSun288 t1_j6k6b3p wrote

> plastic window covers that stick to the frame with double sided tape

Those do leave residue that is pretty annoying to remove so make sure to keep cleanup in mind.

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thenewguyonreddit t1_j6jo747 wrote

Condensation on windows is caused from your house being too humid during the winter when your windows are cold.

Dual pane/insulated windows will be much less likely to have this problem than old single pane windows. Upgrading the windows will probably solve the issue.

If you are stuck with old, single pane windows, and replacing them is not an option, then the other option is to try and reduce the humidity in the house. You could run a dehumidifier, but a better option would be to evacuate the humidity via ventilation to the outdoors. Humidity typically comes from your bathrooms, stovetop ranges, and washer and dryer. Ideally, each of those rooms or appliances should be properly ventilated to the outside.

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kkngs t1_j6jzzvs wrote

Sadly, where I live the outside humidity is even higher than indoors, so running ventilation fans inside only increases total humidity as that air gets replaced.

Edit: if it’s sufficiently cold out, the rise in temp when the outside air warms up can make the ventilation idea work at higher humidity levels, but in Houston this still doesn’t work out very often

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Pigs100 t1_j6jgh0q wrote

I keep a face towel nearby and just wipe it up every day.

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windy496 t1_j6jorop wrote

I had this problem with our first house. I bought plastic film window kits. It uses double faced tape that you stick on the window frame and then stick the plastic film to. Not only did it keep the condensation at bay, it blocked out drafts.

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BlowMoreGlass t1_j6k587b wrote

Put your house in rice and it should dry up for you

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bugbugladybug t1_j6k77qe wrote

Google "condensation drip strip"

You just sit it at the bottom of the glass and it absorbs the water.

You can wring them out and reuse which is very handy.

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FireWireBestWire t1_j6jkvsu wrote

Just point a fan at the window

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ndtoronto t1_j6jzkf5 wrote

We have this problem in my kids room.

I make sure they keep their ceilng fans on in the winter. Keeps the air circulating and doesn't allow it to stay in one spot becoming condensation.

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fxbane t1_j6jygm1 wrote

Salt. Sounds stupid and life-hacky but it actually works. You do have to replace it now and again when it gets caked up. Fill a paper coffee cup about 2/3 and leave it on the windowsill. When its done you can heat the salt up in the oven to get rid of the moisture but I almost never bother.

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[deleted] t1_j6j7pj5 wrote

When I lived in NZ I had this problem also. Two options :

  1. Buy a dehumidifier of a size to match the room(s). You will need to empty the accumulated water from it daily at least.

  2. Install a heat pump (reverse cycle air conditioner).

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ThisIsNotAFarm t1_j6jyigy wrote

> studio apartment

  > Install a heat pump (reverse cycle air conditioner).

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[deleted] t1_j6k68pn wrote

Aircon involves building works which is why I suggested a free standing dehumidifier as the first (lowest cost) option. Most folks grossly underestimate the size needed though. If OP leaves a free standing dehumidifier running all day, she/he will come home to a dry apartment.

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mtiakrerye t1_j6jnrg8 wrote

What would a heat pump do?

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chopsuwe t1_j6jxe93 wrote

They have a dehumidify cycle. A stand alone dehumidifier works better though.

Source: NZ, we're famous for our cold, damp, draughty houses with condensation on the windows and mould on every surface.

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mtiakrerye t1_j6jxu1t wrote

Oh, nice. I don’t think mine here in the US has an option to run it like that (but it sounds handy).

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chopsuwe t1_j6jyfip wrote

Handy but not very good, it works by alternating between heating the air to keep the room warm, then chilling to make the moisture condense in the unit where it can be drained away.

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[deleted] t1_j6k6z13 wrote

No it does not.

Reverse cycle air-conditioning DEHUMIDIFIES the air and optionally maintains heats OR cools to the desired temperature. It does not alternately heat/cool.

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dododoob t1_j6k7ay7 wrote

The only way for a heat pump to dehumidify is to run in cool mode. The dehumidify setting works by only running the compressor enough to keep the coils just below the dew point. Because the hot side is still outside, it will end up cooling the room down a bit. A standalone dehumidifier keeps its hot side in the room, so it doesn't have this problem.

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ErikTheAngry t1_j6jqny2 wrote

Well, I haven't tried it, but I imagine it might be sufficient to evaporate the water as it condenses on the windows.

But... it feels to me like it's just as likely to make the problem worse, by increasing the potential humidity of the room (as warm air holds more moisture).

Maybe in a place like Chicago, where it doesn't get very cold, it might work? Up where I live, I cannot see this being a tenable solution at all.

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Westerdutch t1_j6k0e2c wrote

> evaporate ... likely to make the problem worse

Correct, evaporating the water isnt the solution but rather part of the problem. Humid air hitting the cold glass is what causes the water to come out (cold air holds less water than warm air so as it cools some has to come out). More heat does not change the amount of water you have in the air so condensation will stay. You either need to lower amount of water in the air (dehumidifier) or you need to not have cold glass (isolating layer or double glazing). Ideally youd have a bit of both, lower humidity in combination with windows that do not waste as much heat will significantly increase quality of life in general and heating cost (dry air needs less energy to heat up than humid air).

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Kelsenellenelvial t1_j6k6wuf wrote

Increasing the temperature inside does help because it makes the inside surface of the window warmer too. We used to run a space heater in the living room to keep it warmer than the rest of the house and it did help a lot with condensation, at the cost of increased energy usage. The best solution is to replace the windows with a more energy efficient version, but that’s costly and not really an option if you don’t own the place.

For OP, window films is probably the most effective solution for the price. Part of the issue is older houses were so drafty that inside humidity wasn’t much different than outside. Then people start sealing things up to reduce energy costs, but that leads to cold spots that lead to condensation.

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DasArchitect t1_j6jtvcw wrote

It won't help. The temperature outside (thus the glazing) will remain below condensation.

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alfredthedinosaur t1_j6jq2pb wrote

Heat pump won't help here. During winter heat pump transfers heat into the desired space for warmth. This drives the air inside to be of conditions that cause a cold single pane window to condensate. Think of a cold can of beer on a hot day; it sweats. Same thing here.

Dehumidify or insulate windows using a secondary pane or other product are only solutions.

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[deleted] t1_j6k03z5 wrote

No it doesnt.

Reverse cycle airconditioners DEHUMIDIFY the air plus & heat/cool to the desired temperature.

Double glazing or even triple glazing is woulderful to have, if you can afford it and IF you can rip out the windows to replace them.

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flskimboarder592 t1_j6jf4tg wrote

You say take the humidity out of the room. My whole house has a humidifier connected to it that I turn on in the winter. I know the air in winter is much drier and the reason for this is to help with dry air and shrinking. When I add humidity to the air and get these cold snaps, the same thing happens.

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ImmortanSteve t1_j6jp6z0 wrote

The colder it is outside, the lower the humidity needs to be inside to stay above the dew point and avoid condensation. Basic whole house humidifiers just have a % humidity setting which can cause problems when temperatures fall as you mentioned. There are nicer controllers that also measure outside air temperature and automatically reduce humidity when it gets colder outside. Talk to your HVAC professional about this.

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flskimboarder592 t1_j6jxanq wrote

Right and mine had the % setting and my HVAC tec said I could lower it but give it 3-5 days to see results. In St Louis we don’t get super cold air that causes this all the time so by the time that waiting is up it’s back to not having condensation.

During that attic air when it felt like -20 outside I actually had water freezing on the inside of the window.

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BdaBng t1_j6jpz2l wrote

Dehumidifier will work but only if you drop the humidity level far enough in the house which is miserable yo live in. But like you said that completely goes against the whole point of adding humidity in the house for comfort. Even high end windows can suffer from this when temps drop. Generally double hung windows get it worse than casement windows.

One thing that can help is to get air movement against the windows. If you have curtains keep them closed at night but open them for a while during the day and see if it helps clear it up. Otherwise a quick wipe with a towel is the quick solution.

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abusche t1_j6k0va2 wrote

turn down the humidifier

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maroooni t1_j6k4f22 wrote

Just open your windows and let fresh air in/the humidity out a few times a day for like five minutes.

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Thud2 t1_j6k9jp0 wrote

dehumidifier

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nutbuckers t1_j6jz8o9 wrote

if your frames are aluminum, know that some window frames have "weeping holes", - they are small slits that allow the condensate to drain to the outside. those sometimes clog up or the glazing unit seal material slowly melt/ooze and clogs tuem up. Usually you can clear those holes with a straightened paperclip, and the condensation will not pool or spill over to the interior.

As otherd have suggested, you may decide to dehumidify.

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PaintedDonkey t1_j6k498u wrote

We had this problem badly in our bathroom. We put a frosted film over the window (for privacy) and that stopped the condensation. I don’t know how/why, but it worked. The condensation was so bad that it was causing mould, and we were having to dry the windows with a towel at least twice a day.

The film we used is removable - you just spray the window with a light mist of soapy water, put the film on, and squeegee out the air bubbles.

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Pafkay t1_j6jjacb wrote

Trickle vents stop that, if they are not fitted just use a towel to dry it every morning. You will only get mold if you leave it wet

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Emeraldstorm3 t1_j6jqnei wrote

This happens because the warm and humid air holds more moisture than cold air. When the air touches the window, it cools down and the excess moisture collects on the glass, eventually enough collects to drip down.

I'm guessing you don't have some sort of AC/central air which would help reduce the air humidity.

Better insulated windows would help, but likely isn't an option.

So you'll want to try to dehumidify your warmer air. Most likely with a dehumidifier.

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LukeTheApostate t1_j6k7vpn wrote

I've had a similar problem in an even colder environment, and other people in my building have had mold problems from it.

So, first thing; many single family homes or row houses will have forced-air heating systems that constantly circulate air. Those will have dehumidifiers on them. When I moved to my building, it was the first radiator-heated place I'd lived in. Radiator heating turns the unit into a sort of sealed box as far as humidity goes. There's a handful of techniques to dealing with this, and many of them didn't occur to me when I first moved into a place that needed them from the combination of uncirculated air and low temperatures.

As others have suggested, a film creating a barrier between (humid) air and the cold window will both prevent condensation build up and significantly improve your heat retention. Most buildings that aren't single family homes (and many that are) have shit-tier windows that leak heat badly and make condensation and heating problems much worse than they have to be.

Managing humidity can help, but not fix the problem. Keeping your bathroom door closed and fan on when you're showering or bathing will cut down on the added humidity. When you're boiling water for food or releasing pressure in a pressure pot, you'll also be getting humidity; opening a window for a few minutes can help vent it.

In my experience, the best way to both prevent condensation and remove any that's built up or frozen is just to point a fan at your window. A dehumidifier can keep your unit drier, but I don't think it'll remove window condensation entirely. On the other hand, just keeping the windows clean doesn't mean you've got the humidity low enough to prevent mold. But, as far as keeping the windows dry, a couple of $10 fans should solve your problems.

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Immediate_Context899 t1_j6jg68d wrote

Run a dehumidifier like others have said. For windows I don’t need to use in the winter, I use this 3m insulating plastic that covers them. It’s like cling wrap that covers your windows. It helps keep my house better insulated and seems to keep what you’re describing from happening. You have to make sure it’s sealed really well and you won’t be using that window all winter, though.

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Bitter-Basket t1_j6jtzch wrote

Dehumidifier or the shrink wrap plastic window coverings. On the latter, you put the plastic up and hit it with a hair dryer. It will create an insulated air barrier like a dual pane window, but optically it not as clear.

A dehumidifier will produce a little bit of heat and noise.

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NeroBoBero t1_j6ju0yo wrote

Look to see if your furnace has a humidity control. Sometimes these are on the side of the furnace, sometimes they are controlled by a digital thermostat. Humidity in winter is a wonderful thing, but sometimes it can be set too high, and the moist air will condense onto cold glass. Not only does this potentially damage windows, but can lead to a situation where the humidifier is calling for more humidity but the level isn’t reached because moisture is being pulled out of the air by the windows. For this reason humidity in winter should be around 25%.

Others have said you can dehumidify a room, but this is rarely a problem in chicago in the winter, especially with double lanes glass, which is what you have. I’m nearly certain you have a built in humidifier on your HVAC and it hasn’t been set for a lower winter level.

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asyouwish t1_j6jwj4z wrote

Next year (or maybe now; you have a lot of winter left), glaze your windows. They sell the film at Lowes and you can get crystal or frosted.

And get a dehumidifier.

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didba t1_j6jytza wrote

Is you hvac unit turned off? It shouldn’t be turned off but on auto set in a way the AC doesn’t turn on. HVAC also cycle on to dehumidify your home’s air, they do not cool when doing this. Turning it off completely dis allows this process to occur.

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jakedublin t1_j6k158a wrote

Use a window vac. karcher makes some very good ones. It will not stop the condensation forming, only insulation will do that, but it is very effective and very cost effective. And in summer you can use it for cleaning the windows.

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deepseascale t1_j6kar3y wrote

+1 for the karcher window vac. I'm in a studio in the UK with shite single glazed windows and it's been a life saver.

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Elfich47 t1_j6jy7go wrote

Blow warm air on it.

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cylonfrakbbq t1_j6k0g7i wrote

I noticed window AC units, so I presume your apartment doesn’t have central hvac. Is the heating electric or steam radiator?

Is the heating unit also beneath the window?

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oconnellc t1_j6k2qo2 wrote

Do you have a small fan you could point at the window and run it on low? Likely the overall air in your apartment has low humidity and you would benefit from something that just evaporates that water and makes it available as 'humidity' in the rest of the living space.

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Panaran t1_j6k4l8h wrote

Not much you can do unfortunately. I've tried everything (also in Chicago) and it's mostly the windows not being very insulating.

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Guygan t1_j6j46pd wrote

First, what causes it? Simple physics. Humid air in contact with a cold surface = liquid water.

You need to attack it from both sides: First, take humidity out of the air. Dehumidifiers are an easy solution. Second, make the window glass less cold. That means better insulated windows, which you probably can't do in a rental.

In any case, the mold isn't gonna hurt you. The whole "EHRMEGERD TOXIC MOLD!" is nonsense. Spray the sill with some mildew cleaner that you use in your shower every week and you won't see any mold on your sill.

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CorvisTaxidea t1_j6jln0m wrote

Mold allergies are common, so yes, mold can cause health issues.

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MagicSPA t1_j6jyzy2 wrote

You were doing fine until you said mold isn't going to hurt you.

If you think "toxic mold is nonsense", then check out Stachybotris atra, Stachybotris chartarum, and others:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mold_health_issues

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Guygan t1_j6jz2s6 wrote

https://www.cdc.gov/mold/faqs.htm

> There are very few reports that toxigenic molds found inside homes can cause unique or rare health conditions such as pulmonary hemorrhage or memory loss. These case reports are rare, and a causal link between the presence of the toxigenic mold and these conditions has not been proven.

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MagicSPA t1_j6jzts6 wrote

From that exact same page:

>Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can lead to symptoms such as stuffy nose, wheezing, and red or itchy eyes, or skin. Some people, such as those with allergies to molds or with asthma, may have more intense reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath.

>In 2004 the Institute of Medicine (IOM) found there was sufficient evidence to link indoor exposure to mold with upper respiratory tract symptoms, cough, and wheeze in otherwise healthy people; with asthma symptoms in people with asthma; and with hypersensitivity pneumonitis in individuals susceptible to that immune-mediated condition.

>In 2009, the World Health Organization issued additional guidance, the WHO Guidelines for Indoor Air Quality: Dampness and Mould. Other recent studies have suggested a potential link of early mold exposure to development of asthma in some children, particularly among children who may be genetically susceptible to asthma development, and that selected interventions that improve housing conditions can reduce morbidity from asthma and respiratory allergies.

Thanks for proving me right. I appreciate it.

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Guygan t1_j6k006v wrote

Apparently, you need to learn what "toxic" means.

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MagicSPA t1_j6k0uk8 wrote

No, I clearly don't, but you need to learn what "toxigenic" means.

Here, let me help you out:

toxigenic: producing a toxin or toxic effect

That PERFECTLY describes the effect of harmful molds. Thanks for your time, you've been a very determined learner.

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Guygan t1_j6k1gs6 wrote

So is dog dander that gives me asthma "toxic"? How about dust? That gives me nasal symptoms. How about tree pollen that makes me sneeze?

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MagicSPA t1_j6k3016 wrote

Then your response to dog dander and pollen sound allergenic rather than toxigenic per se.

Exposure to dust can likewise cause blockage, irritation, and problems with abrasion not related to actual toxicity.

Hope this helps you out!

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Guygan t1_j6k3cqb wrote

Right. And the CDC text you quoted says molds can produce allergic effects. Toxic effects have never been proven.

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Gunter5 t1_j6jp5fv wrote

The plastic wraps may help. Found in any home improvement store

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MikeW86 t1_j6k7z6x wrote

>The whole "EHRMEGERD TOXIC MOLD!" is nonsense.

Would you like to tell Awaab Ishak that he isn't actually dead then

https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2022/nov/15/death-of-two-year-old-awaab-ishak-chronic-mould-in-flat-a-defining-moment-says-coroner

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Guygan t1_j6k89ov wrote

Take up your argument with the US CDC and their many scientists and doctors. I trust the CDC over The Guardian. Thanks.

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MikeW86 t1_j6k8rfg wrote

Show me something from the CDC that says mould isn't dangerous then.

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Guygan t1_j6kab5v wrote

I said the "Toxic mold" hysteria is baseless. I didn't say people can't be allergic to it. I am allergic to it.

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MikeW86 t1_j6k97uw wrote

Either the guardian is reporting falsehoods or the coroner is wrong, which is it?

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Guygan t1_j6ka1ne wrote

Probably both.

You trust a UK coroner over the US CDC?

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ShambolicPaul t1_j6jt7ty wrote

Or bleach. Straight bleach kills and prevents new growth. Toxic mould is a thing. If you don't or can't keep on top of it.

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Guygan t1_j6jyzwo wrote

> Toxic mould is a thing.

They exist, but affects on humans have never been proven

> There are very few reports that toxigenic molds found inside homes can cause unique or rare health conditions such as pulmonary hemorrhage or memory loss. These case reports are rare, and a causal link between the presence of the toxigenic mold and these conditions has not been proven.

https://www.cdc.gov/mold/faqs.htm

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erleichda29 t1_j6k5ktn wrote

So your ignorant argument is that mold doesn't kill people? Why are you so eager to convince total strangers that it's not a big deal to be exposed to mold?

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Guygan t1_j6k63b4 wrote

I am just posting what the scientists at the CDC have to say about the myth of "toxic mold".

If you don't agree with the CDC, take it up with them, Doctor.

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erleichda29 t1_j6k6cdx wrote

Whatever. You are the one that started talking about "toxic mold".

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Guygan t1_j6k6hr4 wrote

Correct. You get a cookie for at least that bit of proper reading comprehension.

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erleichda29 t1_j6ka3bs wrote

So who are you arguing with then?

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Guygan t1_j6kaf27 wrote

I'll ask you the same question. You just commented, so....

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DiggSucksNow t1_j6k7uyi wrote

Did you read any of that link? There are paragraphs and paragraphs of all the things mold can do to both allergic and non-allergic people.

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Guygan t1_j6k7z2w wrote

And none of them are “toxin” related.

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erleichda29 t1_j6k592a wrote

You are completely wrong about mold not hurting anyone. I have asthma from living in a moldy house. Please stop spreading misinformation.

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Guygan t1_j6k689j wrote

I also get asthma and sniffles from mold.

Read the CDC text I posted. The idea that mold is "toxic" has never been proven.

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erleichda29 t1_j6k9w57 wrote

I NEVER ONCE USED THE TERM "TOXIC MOLD". Read user names.

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missionbeach t1_j6jwtd0 wrote

> some mildew cleaner that you use in your shower every week

You are assuming facts not in evidence.

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mypostisbad t1_j6jheqn wrote

Buy a dehumidifier. I recommend an ebacc if you can get them where you are. One with the auto and laundry functions.

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instrumentation_guy t1_j6jrn2o wrote

  1. Dehumidifier 2. Raise Temperature of Room 3. Seal the drafts around the window
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Chrgrfan55 t1_j6k96c5 wrote

Get better windows

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EhmanFont t1_j6jr4yr wrote

A bowl of kitty litter?

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kp33ze t1_j6jtmf7 wrote

Tu tu turn up da heat

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joe32288 t1_j6k7w76 wrote

Hmmm, wonder what OP was doing to generate that much moisture...

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