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2001sleeper t1_j6f2933 wrote

That will work, but I would run a 1x2 around the walls to give a lip for the play wood to rest on. 3/4” can be used as subfloor with a joist span of 24”, so you should be fine with the weight you are planning.

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csth OP t1_j6f58mq wrote

Thank you for the feedback!

For the 1x2, do you mean build a lip instead of the brackets?

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2001sleeper t1_j6f5q05 wrote

No, the brackets will attach to the 1x2 as well. For the parts where the brackets are you add a piece of 1x2 going north to south. This also gives a bigger footing for the bracket.

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csth OP t1_j6f84g0 wrote

What is the advantage of that?

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2001sleeper t1_j6fl22p wrote

Gives you more flexibility to put the brackets right where you need them and allows for more contact points.

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Still_Willow2252 t1_j6fbihn wrote

Would just put wall cleats in instead of the brackets, it'll be enough to support quite a bit of weight.

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csth OP t1_j6ff0cw wrote

Does this work for the cleats?

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microcozmchris t1_j6gt01m wrote

Rip some strips from the edges of your plywood for the cleats. Make them, I dunno, 2" tall and screw the strips to the studs. Shouldn't use pressure treated indoors.

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csth OP t1_j6gtmur wrote

What is a better option for the wood choice?

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microcozmchris t1_j6hu4ta wrote

3/4" ply of any kind should be just fine. The more dense the better. You just don't need pressure treated, which is treated against moisture and the outside environs.

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csth OP t1_j6jscx8 wrote

Thanks for the advice! Should I run the cleats on 3 sides or just 2 sides of the shelf?

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Banana_Ram_You t1_j6guoeq wrote

Yea that'll do. Once the wood is fastened to studs, it's not going anywhere

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LeatherDonkey140 t1_j6fe98z wrote

Those brackets hold 600# each…so if you use the right fasteners, 2400# capacity?I think 4 is overkill…no?

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ViolinistDazzling857 t1_j6h36mg wrote

Agree with the above, I would use 1x2 around the perimeter to make it easier since it’ll be minimal amount of cutting. I also don’t like the cross brace of the brackets. The furring strips you linked to will work. However, take a look at the non-furring 1x2s. They are a few bucks more but will be straighter.

Couple of other notes:

  1. Pre drill the 1x2
  2. I like torx head screws. Grk makes some great products. The R4 or finish screws are awesome.
  3. Make sure you screw the plywood into the cleats
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csth OP t1_j6jm1hj wrote

Thanks for the advice! Should I run the cleats on 3 sides or just 2 sides of the shelf?

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nalleCU t1_j6i5sfm wrote

All depends on the walls

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