Submitted by whayd t3_10m7wsi in DIY

I can’t find anything on the internet about making an axle with a 5/8” steel rod and a supporting 2x4. Maybe I’m the first person (dumb enough) to try it?

“Why the 2x4?” you might ask. Because I have a perpendicular piece of wood that needs to attach to the axle.

I’ve made good progress in my attempts so far, but the contact point between the wheel and the 2x4 is making me nervous. There’s quite a bit of movement and shifting as the wheel applies pressure to the “overhang” section of the fender washer. Demonstration: Imgur.

Things I’ve researched: videos on go kart axles; articles on uses for Harbor Freight pneumatic wheels; 2x4 as axle; connecting wheels to wood.

Nada.

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Comments

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Chemengineer_DB t1_j61nrs9 wrote

Why can't you buy a go kart axle and attach it to the wood? I would imagine a go kart axle parts are readily available and it's a proven system.

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Nobo_hobo t1_j61r5cz wrote

Depends a lot on what the intended use is of whatever you're making. Does it need to hold a lot of weight or move at high speeds? If you're building a garden cart, this will.be fi e, if you're building a go-kart, not so much.

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PsychoEngineer t1_j61rchh wrote

Get some proper pillow-block-bearings and some axle collars and use that to mount the rod instead of the conduit clamps; stronger and then you won’t have to worry about it. Harbor-freight should have everything you need.

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squarebacksteve t1_j61red4 wrote

You're worried that the overhang of the washer wobbles too much? You can put another clamp onto the rod, and have it meet the washer to back it up. Being that close to the edge of the wood you'll want to pre-drill the holes for the wood screws to prevent splitting.

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Nobo_hobo t1_j61uqmx wrote

So, for that application, I think what you have will be fine. It may sqeak a little and won't be the smoothest, but it will do the job. Ideally, you'd have some kind of bearings between the wheel hub and axle to smooth everything out, but your clubs will be fine on this.

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MidnightAdventurer t1_j61vfok wrote

Then it shouldn't matter if the axle moves smoothly or is locked in place as the smooth motion of the wheels comes from their bearings. In that situation, you could even fix the axle rigidly to the 4x2 and it will work fine.
For something like that, I'd be tempted to use threaded rod and have washers and nuts clamp the axle in place then use nuts to clamp the inner race of the bearing to the axle

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Graflex01867 t1_j61vvdz wrote

You've built half a bearing. See how the wood overhangs one half of the axle? You need to have a corresponding piece of wood on the other side of the axle. Two little "legs" and a bridge piece going across the axle would work (An "n" shape").

Or just throw on another washer or two and call it good. I'm pretty sure that would be fine for your golf clubs.

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whayd OP t1_j620hi0 wrote

That’s my current setup actually. The steel rod is held rigidly by the conduit clamps. The wheel turns around the rod, and only occasionally “engages” the bearing (it basically moves around the axle without needing the bearing). Is it common/recommended to secure the inner ring of the bearing to the axle so the bearing remains stationary?

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PsychoEngineer t1_j63zin7 wrote

They would go right next to the Pillow-Block-Bearings and keep the shaft from moving axially; either a pair on the outside of the 2 of them, or a pair on the inside. I also recommend grinding a flat spot or drilling a dimple into the shaft for the set screw on the collar. This will allow you to lock it to the shaft better.

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justincgd t1_j66nsan wrote

My dad made me a go cart when I was a kid, and I’m not sure I’m understanding correctly, but he cut a groove out of the 2x4 so the rod sat in it and inverted the 2x4 so the weight of the cart held the rod in the groove. The rod was secured in the groove I’m sure, but I don’t recall how. Might have just been the fact that there was nowhere for it to go. On each end of the 2x4 there was fender washer so the wheel didn’t rub on the end of the 2x4.

It held up until we outgrew it.

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