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Prophetshark OP t1_j6hycjw wrote

Reply to comment by Petersm66 in Does garage door insulation need to be evenly distributed? by Prophetshark

Warranty is new and was part of agreement to purchase the property. While the act of swapping out panels wouldn't be hard, I am looking for the cheapest method to fix the issue, storing extra panels I already own vs replacing all of them and eating the cost is the decision I'm debating.

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jobyone t1_j6idtka wrote

Doing it yourself is seriously super cheap if you're willing to DIY it a bit instead of using pre-cut-for-a-garage-door kits. I have a small one-car garage and by cutting a foam insulation panel myself and installing it with foil tape I did mine for like $30-40.

The trick was doing each section with two pieces, side by side. Each one scored and snapped horizontally so I could insert it slightly folded and when I pressed it in it locked into place against the top and bottom of the panel. On my door there's a small void one one side of each panel, so I slid one piece into that, then inserted another next to it.

It looks great. It works great. Makes the whole garage quieter, even. Dampens rattles when the door is moving. Weighs maybe a pound or two.

Edit: If you're looking to keep a garage warm, it's also well worth checking and possibly replacing seals. It's not very hard to replace the bottom seal, maybe even install a strip on the ground below it. It's also generally not hard to replace the exterior seals on the top and sides. I've done all of the above and having my garage well-sealed has worked wonders on its temperature and keeping out traffic/city noise.

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PositiveFalse t1_j6j1ty2 wrote

Get that statement from the service company in writing! Then, go back to the original homeowner with the agreement that you have and make a formal demand. BUT KEEP READING!

For an overhead door, the spring setup counterbalances the weight of the unit. Spring sets are color-coded based upon the loads that they can handle. AND most importantly, this is why all of us everywhere only need to buy ONE particular garage door opener to handle ANY wood or fiberglass or steel or composite garage door of any width or thickness!

THEREFORE, don't remove ANY insulation until formal action is corroborated! The CORRECT fix should "simply" be a spring adjustment or upgrade! If you take it upon yourself to do anything else, ESPECIALLY before asserting a formal demand, then all remedies and expenses could now be yours alone to bear!

[EDIT] Just read through some of the other comments and your notes, here, especially on the insulation type, which is NOT going to be out of line for an overhead door! To doublecheck the "balance" for yourself:

That opener should have a pull-cord disconnect near the door attachment when everything is closed. Disengage it and then try to lift the door for yourself. If it feels like the effort is going to require more than ten pounds of heft; or, if the door travels poorly or binds up within it's tracks, then you'll know for certain that it's a spring or service issue and NOT an insulation issue...

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LongWalk86 t1_j6j2qyn wrote

> most importantly, this is why all of us everywhere only need to buy ONE particular garage door opener to handle ANY wood or fiberglass or steel or composite garage door of any width or thickness!

Then why do openers range from 1/2hp up to over 5hp?

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PositiveFalse t1_j6j9c8z wrote

Short answer: Durability

Long answer: Look VERY carefully at those listings! And maybe post what you're seeing here? AC drives have a direct mathematical conversion. DC units can only be "approximated" or identified as a "horsepower equivalent" - with different manufacturers handling their own ratings differently...

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bn1979 t1_j6k55b7 wrote

Mostly it’s bullshit numbers. A 1.5hp motor should draw around 14 amps on 110v. That’s pretty much maxing out what you should have on a household circuit. Manufacturers just like to make up things like “developed” or “max/rated hp” or other stupid terms that don’t actually mean anything but make their products seem more robust. Look at the current draw on the opener. The more it draws, the more powerful it will be.

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nibbles200 t1_j6jfycm wrote

It’s a bit more nuanced. Your average modern garage door isn’t going to have much weight difference. The difference will mostly be related to hight and width but that weight is offset by the spring. A properly installed 7x8 door should open with a similar effort as a 7x16. One could argue that there maybe be a little more mass to get the door movement started but over all it should be the same amount of effort. Higher hp units generally aren’t required unless specified by the door manufacturer due to something unique about it. Just like why would you buy a 2 hp garbage disposal when a 1/4 works about the same in 95% off applications. Sure a higher hp opener will do better and last longer on a larger door but the only real difference it might encounter is the starting inertia.

Don’t believe me? Pop the string lock on two garage doors, a single and a double and feel the difference it takes to open both. But I’m referring to modern aluminum doors, things can get a little strange with old wooden doors etc.

I got an insulated garage door for free, it was a 16x16, older style and heavier. I installed it on my equipment storage shed so tractors could get in and out. The springs were huuuuuuuge, two on either side about 7ft each. Guess what I opened it with? A 1/2 horse residential opener I got off Craigslist used/broken for free. Fixed it (bad sensor wire) and it worked for years until I moved. You could tell it was pissed of initially but once the door started moving you could hear it idle.

The other consideration is duty cycle. When it is 90 outside, you leave the door open or shut until you are done. Open and close it 6-8 times in close succession and it goes into overheat shutdown and flashes the lights with that error code until it cools. If I used a 2hp opener it would be able to open and close many more times before it’s over heats. You’re going to say yeah it is overheating because it’s working harder. Well… more nuanced. It’s having to run for a longer time between open and close, 16 ft door so longer run times. And yeah there is still mass in the door that takes effort to get started but once in motion it’s not much different then a small door. I would argue if you looked at a current meter that it would be very similar other then the initial start.

That 16x16 door was so well balanced I could open it and close it with my pinky. It have it sit 1/2 open without the garage opener all day long and before I installed the opener my children (4-7) at the time would open it by them selves, lift and jump push to get it to go all the way up so they could pull out the atv or power wheels.

I also had on the same building a 10x10 same story 1/2 hp opener no problem, that door was brand new and a lot lighter though still two decent sized springs.

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Hinote21 t1_j6jqofp wrote

>am looking for the cheapest method

Removing the installation may seem cheap up front but it will not be in the long run. Your energy use will go up, it's just a matter of how much.

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