What tool should I use to extract this broken screw?

Submitted by llamaherding t3_10nw61w in DIY

While installing a light fixture one of the mounting screws broke off flush. It is a #8-32 screw, I was looking at screw extractors but these seem to require that the head of the screw is still partially intact. Is there another option I should consider? Thanks

Broken Screw

Edit: Thank you everyone! I was able to use a vice grips to bend that ear down slightly, just enough to get a vice grips on the top of the screw and then was able to back it out. Success, new light fixture now installed

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Comments

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Koots_guy t1_j6bb4q1 wrote

If the screw doesn’t go above the box then just bend the ear down and get some pliers on the remaining piece.

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SwagarTheHorrible t1_j6bqljt wrote

This is the correct answer. Those ears can bend a few times before they break, just bend it as little as possible and use any kind of pliers that can reach it. It'll only take two or three full turns to remove.

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llamaherding OP t1_j6dn3o4 wrote

Thank you! I ended up doing this with some vice grips and it worked!!!

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rael9 t1_j6bhhf1 wrote

Vampliers are the best thing I have found for turning a broken screw. They grab way better than any other needle nose pliers I’ve tried. Saved me so many times.

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Hero_To_Millions t1_j6ch2n5 wrote

I second vampliers or their twin Engineer brand that has way more variants and other tools (I think they are the same company). Found them looking to find a cheaper vamplier that doesn't exist 😀. I use my Engineer PZ-59 like linesman pliers and PZ-58 small linesman looking, more than any other ...well maybe I'm using the even smaller ESD electrical ones just as much lately. I also found a pair of Knipex that are similar that work beautifully no. 82 01 200 they grab excellently tip or side and have a fine adjustment slip joint build that locks vertically in ~4mm increments of total jaw open width when closed....similar to a water pump / channel lock jaw position adjustment but forward and not in grooves but adjusting the hinge point wider or narrower. Look em up OP, I love mine. Otherwise theres ALWAYS the old standby that eats fasteners for lunch but gets the job done...ol trusty vise grips (heck I made my first vamplier style out of an old vise grip using a thin diamond ignition file and many parallel cuts like teeth but offset opposing teeth. It still works great too. GL with your screw and hope I gave you some helpful leads.

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andyrocks t1_j6cpowv wrote

Engineer tools are amazing and absolutely worth the money.

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LetsBeKindly t1_j6dxemx wrote

Just got my first day of Engineers (from Japan). Haven't gotten a chance to use them yet.

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[deleted] t1_j6b9j89 wrote

Vice grips and you need some anyway if you don't already own them.

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Popeye_01 t1_j6bfqf5 wrote

I would go in behind it with needle nose pliers and back it out a bit . Then, switch over to locking pliers and twist from the fromt

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lachneyr t1_j6cfo0w wrote

Just change out the shallow ceiling box. It will take less time then anything else.

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Plywood-Records t1_j6d7ouw wrote

Sometimes I cut a line in the top of what's left of the screw with a rotary tool or hacksaw blade and use a Stanley screwdriver to get it out.

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unicoitn t1_j6cj9sg wrote

left hand drill bit should do it...

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TrebekCorrects t1_j6b7s2x wrote

If you have locking needle-nose pliers, you might be able to get a good bite. Lock it tight and slowly rotate counterclockwise.

If that doesn't work you could try the dremel tool method to cut a flathead screwdriver slit.

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RunTheBull13 t1_j6bbggq wrote

Screw removal pliers on Amazon

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AccomplishedEnergy24 t1_j6crl72 wrote

Vampliers are what you want.

They do make extractors that can deal with missing heads of screws. Look at socket extractors. You just need one sized for the screw shaft. They are mainly meant to remove damaged bolts, but work fine for this type of thing.

Not worth getting just for this, since the vampliers will get it out with no issue. But something to keep in mind for the futre.

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Electroflyguy t1_j6cwctc wrote

I used to be a residential electrician. If this happens and you are unable to remove the screw, buy a 6/32's speed tap and tap a second hole in the remaining metal portion of the mounting tab. Shift the lighting bracket slightly, use new hole and new screw, and you are good to go.

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generalducktape t1_j6d1l3o wrote

Try with pliers if that fails file it flat drill center with small drill bit go up a size then retap the hole go up to 10-32 if you have to

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ShaunDSpangler t1_j6d323p wrote

Needle nose vice grips will get it out. Alternative is selecting a smaller drill bit and drilling into screw and once it grabs, reverse the drill. This screw is fairly small, so this process won't be as easy.

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