I left a cast-iron pan on the butchers block desk which left quite a mark. I've sanded it down however since then the wood doesn't take the wood preserve I'm adding to it. Is there anything I can do here? Link to the butchers block and the preserve I'm using: https://imgur.com/a/TUSyYUl
Comments
CURRTIS1 OP t1_j6myf1s wrote
I'll give this a go, thank you
toalv t1_j6no8km wrote
The product you are using is not really a wood finishing product. It's primarily a fungicide designed to, well, preserve wood - things like joists and floorboards. It doesn't repel water. I honestly would not use it for an interior project like a desk particularly if you're eating off of it.
You need to use a proper top finishing coat like a compatible oil based polyurethane. Sand down to 220 or so like the previous comment and use a few coats of poly sanding lightly with 320 or higher grit in between.
oneeye3040 t1_j6nl6xp wrote
You could also try wood conditioner to open the pores. Running lumber through a planer often closes the pores and will prevent stain from penetrating.
bainebarray t1_j6msjcn wrote
Are you using it for a food surface like a cutting board or counter?
If so I'd recommend a food safe mineral oil.
Bob Villa has some good tips and recommendations. For my cutting board I use a conditioner (not sure what brand as the label has worn off) after washing and it works great.
CURRTIS1 OP t1_j6mt4u6 wrote
Nope, just using it as a desk. Do you think it will take to the conditioner you posted if it's not taking the sealant here?
bainebarray t1_j6mtcrb wrote
Possibly. Was it sealed before you had to take care of the burn, and if so did you use that same sealant?
If possible get some conditioner (could even an oil like walnut oil etc since it's not for food prep) and try a small bit and see if it soaks in. With oils and conditioner you want very little so it doesn't leave a residue.
Genghis_Kong t1_j6nh7f9 wrote
FWIW that's not a butcher's block, that's just a wooden counter top.
Butcher's block always has the wooden staves oriented vertically, with the grain side up, so when you hit it with a cleaver 100 times a day you don't get splinters in your sausage. As it were.
guerrilla32 t1_j6pbg9h wrote
splintered sausage, oooof.... Bad Memories.
scoopfing t1_j6muns6 wrote
It looks like there's a coat of polyurethane on the wood already? And that wood preserver is a penetrating oil? If it is poly on there, use poly to fix it.
CURRTIS1 OP t1_j6myhax wrote
I'm certain it was unfinished when I bought it last year, I definitely used the same preserver then which I put in the pic above.
howard416 t1_j6n7v0u wrote
Is it possible that the bottom of the pan was oily, and it wicked into the wood and the oil is preventing the adhesion of the stuff you're trying to apply? Is it the entire piece of wood that won't take your sealant, or just the approximate area underneath the pan?
CURRTIS1 OP t1_j6nmvtu wrote
It's pretty much where I sanded, the original marking from the pan was a lot smaller surface area.
Successful_Ride6920 t1_j6oiuwk wrote
Had somewhat of a similar issue, purchased a butcher block, sanded it down, bat one spot was giving me trouble. Neighbor gave me a small jar of "industrial bleach". not sure where he got it, it didn't solve the issue 100%, but pretty close. I think it was a powder substance that was mixed to make it liquid. HTH.
gooberfaced t1_j6munvb wrote
Are you certain that the butcher block was not oil finished?
I would use a simple cutting board oil.
CURRTIS1 OP t1_j6myc8l wrote
It was unfinished when I bought it. I used the same preserver in the picture, this was a year ago though.
nah-meh-stay t1_j6nat5m wrote
Tung oil and citric acid. The acid opens the pores, tung oil takes a bit to dry, but is tough. Food safe, as well.
ChickenNext586 t1_j6mxph3 wrote
You're probably sanding with too fine of a grit. The wood needs to be "open" if that makes sense. Sand with maybe 220 max, and it should take the oil/ stain/ etc.