How to insulate 24" stud spacing with 2x3 framing?

Submitted by Blackking203 t3_10muhh6 in DIY

Good afternoon,

My laundry/storage room is unfinished, but the interior foundation wall has wood framing that someone already put up. I'm looking to add some insulation to the wall...but the studs are 2x3 and the spacing between each is 24in.

This doesn't fit any standard size insulation and when I look at insulation that size, it's like 4 times the cost of the 15in insulation roll. Does anyone have any recommendation on how I should insulate this wall? I'm looking for a quick, but efficient solution.

Any help is appreciated.

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Comments

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it00 t1_j659y29 wrote

A general rule of thumb with insulation - either board or glasswool roll - is there is incredibly little waste. Just cut to size and put it in the gaps as best you can. I'm assuming you're going to be covering with a vapour barrier and plasterboard / drywall in any case? It doesn't matter a damn how the insulation looks - as long as it's full coverage with as close to no gaps as possible.

If you get rolls of insulation for the required area just cut to the required width (in your case 22") with a saw - while it's still in the roll. Sheet insulation can be like the worst made jigsaw in the world - who cares? It's going to be hidden in any case. Just slice it all to fit nice and tightly to the studs.

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colin294 t1_j65o34y wrote

Just buy the bat insulation for 2x6 walls and pull it in 1/2. It generally separates very cleanly along a cosistent plane. It does create a little more airbourne dust than cutting, but i would recommend wearing a proper ½ mask respirator anyway.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j674yis wrote

That's a good idea

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tahmorex t1_j689vpt wrote

Compressing the insulation reduces its R-value considerably.

I would use rigid foam board, take your time and cut to fit, and use a spray foam gap sealer (comes in a can) around the edges once it’s in.

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MillionHobbies t1_j65touz wrote

Buy rigid insulation, cut it to fit and glue it in. Finish it off by using spray foam on the sides top and bottom to fill gaps.

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brock_lee t1_j65jb0s wrote

Rigid insulation will fit that bill.

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Realshotgg t1_j668yza wrote

IMO, furr out the 2x3 to turn it into 2x4s and then put a 2x4 in the 24 inch space so you have one 16 inch on center stud and another 8 inch on center.

That way at least half the space will be easy to insulate

The 23 inch wide insulation is like 20 cents more expensive per sqft so depending on size it could be cheaper to create some 16 inch on center studs

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NTA_Shawn t1_j658h0o wrote

Lowes carries a 24" R19 wall insulation that covers about 133sq ft. It's $109 here. Yes there are some rolls you can get for $30, but they only cover 40sq ft.

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DarkLink1065 t1_j659i5n wrote

That's for 2x6 studs, though, and won't properly fit in a 3" cavity.

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NTA_Shawn t1_j659ywd wrote

The R13 is for 2x4s and covers 163sq ft for $118 Item 108995.

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winter_rainbow t1_j65a7e0 wrote

You can find insulation that is 24” wide. It’s commonly used. Using 3-1/2” thick insulation will be fine. Compressing the insulation makes it lose a little bit of R-Value, but not much.

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jinbtown t1_j66qowp wrote

it increases R value per inch, but loses inches. The R value actually goes up when compressing fiberglass.

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Traveling_Carpenter t1_j65dd25 wrote

2x3 exterior wall framing? Is this infill in a timber frame, pole barn, or something similar? Knowing what kind of structure this is would be helpful in recommending an insulation strategy.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j65kdlr wrote

It's a wall in a basement laundry room. The wall is a concrete foundation wall that has some 2x3 framing on it already

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Traveling_Carpenter t1_j65xw8p wrote

Personally, I’d take the framing (really furring) out first. Make sure there are no leaks in the wall or walls, and if there are you have to fix those before you think about insulating. For insulation, rigid foam right against the foundation to cut off thermal bridging. Foam thickness depends on climate zone and insulation type (eps, xps, polyiso, phenolic). Then reinstall the furring and fasten your drywall to that.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j69fgdo wrote

So the studs are nailed to the concrete wall. What do you recommend to take them out?

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Traveling_Carpenter t1_j6a12hf wrote

A hammer and a big flat bar or something similar should work. Even a big flat shovel or floor scraper - whatever you have that you can hammer into the joint between the wall and the stud. Start at an end - top or bottom - and work to the other end. If the nails pull through the studs, no big deal. You can use vise grip pliers to kind of twist the nails back and forth until they loosen, or if you don’t have those, just tap the exposed nail back and forth with a hammer until they fall out or break off.

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ShwAlex t1_j66nmlu wrote

Are your studs 2" x 3" or 1.5" x 2.5"?

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Blackking203 OP t1_j6758qp wrote

They are nominal 1.5 x 2.5

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ShwAlex t1_j67c3h2 wrote

Use R8 batts for 2.5" walls and cross cut them. How many square feet of walls do you have?

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energysector t1_j66vo2k wrote

Are the spaces 24” or are the studs 24” on centre? You should be able to find fibreglass batts that work for 24 on centre.

As far as the depth of the studs goes, can you move the framing out? Pull the nails top and bottom and move it out from the wall 3”. That'll give you plenty of room for insulation. I'm assuming that the framing isn’t structural—just backing for drywall.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j674wf0 wrote

It's not a load bearing wall, but the studs are tapcon to the concrete wall. The spaces are 24" on centre. I found some, they're just a lot more expensive

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energysector t1_j67605h wrote

They weren’t fooling around. But, bare wood against concrete may start to rot. If your foundation isn’t damp-proofed and we’ll drained.

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CharlotteBadger t1_j66y61f wrote

It’s more labor, but they would fit. Run them crosswise rather than up and down.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j69f9hg wrote

What do you mean run them crosswise?

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CharlotteBadger t1_j69m63y wrote

Batts are usually run up/down, run them side to side. 24” long, as many as you need to fill the cavity. You can peel 6” batts in half, if that’s what you’re working with, to fill your 3” deep wall cavity.

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WISteven t1_j68fsns wrote

Use rigid foam insulation. It comes in 4x8 sheets. It will perform way better than any batt.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j69fkyi wrote

Can I not add pictures to post here? I can't seem to find the option

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Joecool2008 t1_j6565ft wrote

If you seal the bays with plastic, you could do blow in insulation.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j656tbf wrote

I'm not opposed to it, but that does sound a bit complicated and expensive. I'm looking to see if I can insulate this 1 wall for about $100 or less

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Joecool2008 t1_j6576m2 wrote

Insulation is hard to do nowadays less than a 100. Might get foam board and cut it down.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j657wvf wrote

I was thinking about that too

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Joecool2008 t1_j659nux wrote

A serrated knife cuts it well. Or, Home Depot has some pink board with perforated lines to allow for easy sections.

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Blackking203 OP t1_j674qss wrote

I've been pricing things out and you are right. I think I'm going to do rigid foam and just cut it to size around the framing and used spray foam for any gaps.. I have about 88 sq. ft and the price is around $224 for 2in....What do you think about 1 1/2 inch?

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WISteven t1_j68fzl5 wrote

Make sure you cut the insulation about 1/4" short on all sides. That will leave a nice gap to fit the spray foam in.

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Joecool2008 t1_j6753mp wrote

Since I don't know the temperatures around your parts, I would be looking at the R values. But, 1 1/2 board does a decent job.

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