Submitted by Vorpalis t3_11byznu in DIY

I have a wooden bed frame that was previously stained and (I believe) had some sort of clear coat, that I'm repainting with Behr Premium Satin spray paint + primer. After sanding with 220 grit, blowing off the dust, wiping-down with a dry cotton towel, then spray painting, most of the pieces turned out great. However, two pieces of the bed frame keep getting a crinkly finish as the paint dries. I've googled this, but none of the suggestions I've found (paint applied too thick, paint or piece either too hot or too cold, surface is wet / greasy / dirty) seem to be what's happening here.

What I've tried to correct the crinkly paint so far: let the crinkly paint cure for 2 days; sand-down the crinkly patches and surrounding area (I've also tried sanding-down the entire board); blow-off the dust with compressed air; wipe down the pieces with a damp cotton rag, folding / swapping rags to use a fresh bit until it comes up clean; allow the surface to air dry; re-paint.

In my latest attempt, in addition to repeating the above, I moved both the paint and the two pieces indoors for 24 hours to warm up (68° F). Then I used a fresh cotton rag to wipe them down with 70% rubbing alcohol, allowed them to dry, then repainted, but it still turned out crinkly.

Any advice would be appreciated!

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cashew996 t1_ja0qmyl wrote

The only times I've ended up with the crinkles is if I added a coat more than 2 hours after first coat. This happened because first coats were skinned over but wet under.

That may or may not be your problem, but you might try sanding it back down -- and seal it with poly first -- let dry for 2 days -- then paint lightly as if you're painting sheet metal. This needs much less paint than going straight to wood. This has worked nicely for me lately

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Vorpalis OP t1_ja0r109 wrote

Thanks for the reply!

"Poly" as in polyurethane? I'm planning to spray it all with a polyurethane clear coat after painting. You're saying to use that as a primer as well?

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zedsmith t1_ja0sydp wrote

Don’t trust products that say “paint and primer in one”

A good bonding primer should have been your second to last step.

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zedsmith t1_ja0x0y9 wrote

My normal go to is Zinsser Bin, which is a shellac primer with an alcohol base. Very runny and stinky, but dries sandable in like 30 minutes.

Last time I did cabinet doors I tried stix by insl-x, which is a water base, and dries about as fast, and is equally sandable, which I love.

Bin is available at most home improvment stores, insl-x is available where Benjamin Moore paints are sold.

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cashew996 t1_ja0ysu5 wrote

Yes. I've tried it a few times - though you should know that somebody at Ace told me that it may be a problem later as far as flaking off when the poly gets older but I don't know.

I haven't had any trouble with it -- but I do more wall hanging stuff as opposed to furniture that gets wear. Something to watch -- and learn

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