Not even remotely close to pine. It's 'rubberwood', 'acacia' or whatever catch-all term they use for generic import hardwood.

The key issue is surface prep and finishing method. First, your sanding isn't even. Whether you haven't gotten the original finish off, or we're seeing bits from your previous attempts, you can clearly see how the surface varies across the top and especially the side profile. Going this dark with stain alone is extremely demanding in terms of surface prep. There are also fundamental limits to how much stain different woods will accept.

Shellac will help with evenness, but not with darkness. The opposite, in fact. But that's not a bad thing.

What you need here, if you insist on a dark finish with wood that doesn't want to go dark, is to do what the factory did: tint. They don't stain, they use tinted finish (toner) to get the color in the finish itself, not the wood. Then the wood doesn't matter, it doesn't matter that they used a grab-bag of scrap hardwood that never matches, you just tint it to hell.

Problem with this, and a fundamental problem people have refinishing commercial furniture, is that it's not easy to use toner. You can't apply it by hand without getting some streakiness. It has to be sprayed. What you can do, however, is find rattle-can toner. See if there's a Mohawk dealer near your, or consider ordering some. A couple cans should do a top like that.

Watch some pros if you need to understand more about how colorwork is done: John's Furniture Repair and Tom Johnson Antique Restoration