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BeerOlympian t1_j9f17kv wrote

Tankless implying commercial grade with a flush valve? Or tankless implying a disconnected, in wall tank? Former plumbing engineer and currently on the contracting side so I’m very intrigued by this question.

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I_Know_What_Happened t1_j9hww9x wrote

They have toilets now for residential that don’t have a tank in the wall or attached on top.

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BeerOlympian t1_j9i9alr wrote

Yes but those are still very uncommon in residential. That’s why I asked though.

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I_Know_What_Happened t1_j9jh4ru wrote

Oh yea. I’ve seen them pop up within the last few months at least being advertised a lot. They are expensive. The ones I saw are 1000+ but they are also ones with like a bidet, air dryer, self open and close lids.

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atmetal OP t1_j9gon94 wrote

I don't know what qualifies for commercial grade, as the pictures I've seen strongly imply they are built for residential use, but I am certainly talking about a truly tankless design. The flushometer design so often seen in public toilets has long been a dream of mine because of their seemingly superior performance, but that obviously has nothing to do with my motivations for wanting to rotate the toilet.

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waderson85 t1_j9h8y5u wrote

A standard commercial chrome flush valve or "flushometer" for a toilet is designed to be connected to a 1inch diameter water line. Depending on your specific home, you may not have any piping larger than 3/4 inch in diameter anywhere. The pressure drop caused by a commercial flush valve opening in your average house will likely cause the flush valve to perform poorly. In addition, the water line will have to be relocated from the standard 6-8 inches above the floor to roughly 12 inches above the top of the toilet and 4-5 inches off centerline. A water line coming out of a square/flat wall at an angle will look super weird, if the toilet is in a corner, it will be harder to accomplish and probably look worse (in my opinion).

Others have mentioned that at best, the flange will have to be repositioned due to the slots for the bolts that hold the toilet to the flange not being aligned with your desired position. This might require you to cut the existing anchors and spin the outer ring with the slots in it, it also might require complete flange replacement. Worst case, this toilet is in a tight corner and turning the toilet to your desired angle will conflict with existing walls requiring you to break open the floor and/or crawl under the house to relocate the opening further away from adjacent walls.

Should you ever have to move, this will likely need to all be undone.

All that to say this project is likely more trouble than it is worth.

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BeerOlympian t1_j9i97dx wrote

If your house has the pressure the 1” connection could be doable still. Have to make/buy a pressure gauge to fit on a hose bibb and run some other fixtures in your house to see what happens. Short burst of water from the valve would only really be noticeable if you were in the shower. As others have mentioned this could be a lot of rework depending where you upsize your water to and probably would need a water hammer arrestor for the toilet too.

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Acid_Traffik t1_j9gl2xb wrote

What about a maceration toilet? Lol

Looked into installing a bathroom in my basement once upon a time. Once I considered all logistics involved I gave up on that endeavor pretty quickly.

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BeerOlympian t1_j9i8lvi wrote

Zoeller Quik Jon would help with that. Macerating toilet with a pump. Happy to run some numbers with you if you’re serious about it.

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