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Primary-Owl-1145 t1_j8zkbfi wrote

That paper backing is actually a vapor barrier (worked for an insulation company in the northwest) but I would suggest looking into coding for a basement for higher humidity areas


redditknees t1_j91s47m wrote

I was thinking this too. If its a basement, wouldn’t they not want a vapour barrier? Spray foam or rigid foam insulation directly onto the concrete is a better option? I guess depends where you live. Im in Canada where the ground freezes for 6 months out of the year.


Primary-Owl-1145 t1_j91vytf wrote

Yeah I know foam board is normally recommended but in some cases I have seen Kraft batts used in basements depending on the ability to keep moisture and humidity under control


slickwrick21 OP t1_j8zsuau wrote

Do i need to staple it to the wood or can i leave it as is?


Primary-Owl-1145 t1_j90rhq6 wrote

Yes the paper should be stapled to the wood should have a an overlap on one side also might want to try to fix the compression in yours bats so get your actual r value


woodprefect t1_j919461 wrote

if you want to drywall the basement you want to remove those batts and replace them with unfaced batts, rockwool or XPS. Rockwool is moisture resistant.


dsptpc t1_j91glop wrote

DONT staple it, (if you can) … remove the paper prior to sheetrock. You do not want an additional vapor barrier holding in humidity.


Primary-Owl-1145 t1_j91nw1i wrote

If you remove that vapor barrier that's glued to the batts you damage the batt as well vapor barrier should be secured if op staples this vapor barrier then they do not need a poly vapor barrier as well again I still suggest that local coding is checked but manufacturer says to secure the vapor barrier that is on the batt not to be just removed or else the r13 value that is up is no longer r13