How to deal with gap between wall sconce and old work light box?

Submitted by monroegreen9 t3_111fn1w in DIY

I looked online and found nothing that addresses this issue I have observed when mounting new wall sconces to a standard plastic “old work” light box. Because the box sits proud of the drywall (instead of behind the drywall like “new work” boxes), the light fixture’s metal mounting plate is also proud of the drywall. And, because the light fixture is designed to sit exactly flush with the mounting plate, there is now a gap between the light and the wall, which is very frustrating. The plastic light box is 100% as far into the drywall as I can get it.

Photo: https://imgur.com/CajxggM

My guess is that wall sconces are designed with the assumption that the box is flush (I’ve tried two different ones already), so that the light will sit exactly flat against the drywall. But in my case, I have to use an old work light box to add these lights where there previously weren’t any…which is what all the videos tell you to use. What am I missing? It doesn’t seem like lights come with any kind of designation for different light boxes. Any insight would be invaluable, but at the end of the day I’m assuming I have to just find something to cover the gap.

ETA: the picture makes it look the light’s backplate is too small and doesn’t cover the box, but it does. It just doesn’t sit far back enough to hide it.

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cosmonihilator t1_j8el0xs wrote

You can either remove the light and somehow flush the box with the wall, or make a plate (believe it would technically be called an escutcheon) out of wood to fasten to the wall, to give you a flat surface to which you could fasten the light.

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MK7474 t1_j8esllo wrote

Does the old work box really stick out that far? Doesn't seem like the tabs that hold it against the drywall would cause that huge a gap. Tightened down well it should be nearly flush.

Try bending the sides of the mounting plate the lamp screws into back so when you attach it to the box they sit closer to the wall.

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monroegreen9 OP t1_j8fzdni wrote

It’s flush, it’s just that the rim on the front is surprisingly thick and pushes everything off the wall a bit. But that’s a decent idea to try manipulating the mounting plate

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1998f1504x4 t1_j8fr36b wrote

Modify the light fixture. If you enlarge those side mounting screw holes you will be able to push the light flush against the wall.

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monroegreen9 OP t1_j8fziqr wrote

Oh that’s true, we could try that. It’s metal but I could look for the right drill bit. Thanks for the suggestion

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ATX_native t1_j8faa9b wrote

Is it an old work or new work box?

If old work, see if it’s come loose (tighten down the screws that tighten the tabs. If the drywall is broken in the backside rotate the box and retighten)

If new work (nailed to stud) remove box by finding out which side stud Is and remove box, I would then put new work box in it’s place.

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Kooperst t1_j8f03l7 wrote

Got access to a 3D printer? Make a plate. At work we've done that on multiple occassions for similar issues.

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Aluggo t1_j8eina2 wrote

If just the the blue part is sticking out and the rest is wiring. You can go in with a Dremel and shave down the blue housing that is sticking out. You would have to remove the camera to do it. Then once flush with the wall you can reinstall the camera and see if caulking is needed on the outer edges.

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GrimResistance t1_j8hvyp6 wrote

That's actually what I would do, just shave down the parts over the mounting screws that the bracket will hit. Leave the rest of the flange obviously because it holds the box to the drywall.

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SinisterFriend t1_j8ezmjf wrote

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DMQRWS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Shallower box.

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-TX- t1_j8f5bxg wrote

This.... Most house use ½" drywall on the interior of the house. The ceilings and garage walls with be ⅝" drywall. Looks like they installed a ⅝ box.

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