Submitted by foxrue t3_11ael2k in DIY

Our bathrooms have these small, slab gray tiles that have always looked pretty awful. Recently, I started researching ways to clean the grout (i.e. avoid having to retile), when I looked more closely and saw that it doesn't look like grout at all — it looks like the tile was laid directly onto concrete. The building itself is poured concrete, so it's not entirely surprising. But I can't seem to find any information on what to do with tile that's been laid into concrete. So, I come to you humbly seeking some wisdom: how would you clean and/or deal with the discoloration between tiles laid onto unfinished concrete? Or is the answer that concrete is concrete, and there's nothing we can do besides remove the tile? (Apologies for the zoomed in photo of dirty tile eeeee!)

UPDATE: I decided to give a couple of these suggestions a go. First, I used soft scrub on a portion of the floor. I covered it in goopy, bleachy goodness, let it sit, scrubbed with a toothbrush, let it sit again, and then washed it away. Still the same! Here's a before/during/after: Then, I went for the Mapei Grout Refresh in oyster grey. I followed the instructions and decided the "wet" method was for me. I was wrong! When I tried to clean up the excess, all of the product came up and formed a soup of off-white mess. When I was done cleaning it up, I was pretty much back to where I started. Somebody recommended Zep grout cleaner, and somebody else recommended XLGC — I couldn't find them today, so they were on my list for the next round. But after so much scrubbing and tediousness, I'm starting to understand why so many recommended that it was just time to get new tile! Maybe, if I'm lucky, that's in my future.



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anarchyreigns t1_j9rkvew wrote

It’s set with mortar and then grout is applied between the tiles. You can use a product like grout renew to revitalize the old grout, it comes in many colors and last for several years.


PlayNice_PlayPharah t1_j9sjsn6 wrote

We used a grout renew product and it worked great. It was like a paint and it sealed.


HyperionsDad t1_j9srdwp wrote

I just used the Mapei Grout Refresh product yesterday and it worked great. Much easier than I thought it would be to apply.


foxrue OP t1_j9thdzm wrote

I appreciate the recommendation!


AdmiralPoopbutt t1_j9tibn5 wrote

Krud Cutter also works well. Spray on, wait about a minute, stuff brush 3-4 swipes, and wipe off with a clean rag. You'll need a lot of rags since wiping off with a dirty rag isn't very effective.


HyperionsDad t1_j9tu19a wrote

Krud Cutter looks like a cleaner, where as the Grout Refresh product is a stain/colorant and sealer that matches the Mapei grout color product line.

KC sounds like a great step 1 to clean, with Grout Refresh (or Custom Building Products’ version) being step 2 for getting the color where you want it.


AdmiralPoopbutt t1_j9tw0tj wrote

You're right, it is. I have used the Mapei stuff and am not super impressed with it. Adhesion was very good and it has held up for the last 2 years, but it looks like a bit like paint to me. Applying it took absolutely forever too. I would only use it again if I had some exceptionally super nasty stained grout that I couldn't stand.


HyperionsDad t1_j9uji1j wrote

Thanks for sharing your observations. I’m happy to hear that it’s held up well (my primary concern). I do like the appearance because I have a relatively thin 1/8” grout line and I used their Ultracolor FA (fine aggregate) which to me looks nice without the coarse sanded grout (do not like that appearance).


HyperionsDad t1_j9tvqpo wrote

No problem. I used the Grout Refresh on a new install because the grout dried lighter than expected and varied a fair amount. The Grout Refresh, while an extra step, made the final product look amazing (color was what we wanted it to be and it was 100% consistent throughout the room).

If you’re really precise or “anal retentive” this type of product really helps you dial in the color if the grout application or cleaning effort comes out more varied than you’d like.


foxrue OP t1_j9thcr4 wrote

Thank you for the recommendation, I'll give it a go!


RabbitWhisperer4Fun t1_j9uud81 wrote

That’s actually the perfect solution if this is a home but if this is commercial the grout renew will not last. It’s a surface treatment that doesn’t hold up to constant commercial cleaning with the harsher chemicals and the grinding outdoor dirt that finds it’s way into commercial bathrooms. But if this a basement in a home or pool house then it’s perfect and quick solution.


RabbitWhisperer4Fun t1_j9uul40 wrote

It kind of looks like a commercial tile with harsh fluorescent lights somewhere in a warehouse or old business…the surface applications just won’t last for commercial settings.


foxrue OP t1_j9vnjl7 wrote

Ha, it's funny you say this -- that's basically how our condo was built. Terrible finishing all around.


Fro_Yo_Joe t1_j9ru5am wrote

ZEP grout cleaner and brightener is what I use and it does wonders. Don’t forget to seal it when you’re done.


5degreenegativerake t1_j9rumgb wrote

ZEP makes a lot of really good stuff but you need to read the directions carefully because a lot of it leans toward “Industrial strength”.


lympunicorn t1_j9s6trv wrote

This is good advice right here. I used their grill and oven cleaner on my stovetop grates without gloves and got chemical burns up my arm where it dripped - I could rub my skin off where it happened. It was a great reminder to read the instruction and take precautions. My grates cleaned up nice though.


enjoytheshow t1_j9thc9b wrote

What about a respirator too? Seems like shit that can burn your skin is also not great to inhale


AdmiralPoopbutt t1_j9ti1a7 wrote

Oven cleaner tends to recommend that also. Or at least heavy ventilation. The ones I have used tend to be spray and leave for an hour type products.


foxrue OP t1_j9thfpz wrote

Noted! Thank you so much!


epsilona01 t1_j9s5bnh wrote

In my experience, you can spend a lot of time and money cleaning the grout around tile you're already not happy with, and still not be happy at the end of the process.

Nothing solves the problem better than an SDS Hammer Drill with chisel attachments followed by a tiling professional.


Opposing_Thumbs t1_j9s5vyu wrote

In this case just tile over it.


IronSlanginRed t1_j9s7tan wrote

In most cases I wouldn't suggest this. But that would level out the threshold, and if it's straight on concrete it shouldn't deflect any or crack much. It's actually a decent use case. Basically using the old tile as an extension substrate.


juicius t1_j9u05kr wrote

Self-leveling underlayment?


leviathan65 t1_j9udf38 wrote

You could, but kinda an unnecessary step since you have to put down adhesive of mastic or thin set. These look even enough that the trowel will level the adhesive for a good bond. Depending on size. Big ass tiles are a pain in the ass.


epsilona01 t1_j9s88vv wrote

Always looks crap, never settles well, transitions look silly. Worse, you're just leaving double trouble for the next person down the line. Do the job properly (I just spent a month removing a double tiled floor).

I bought a house built by the person who built the terrace of houses of which it's part, he built this place for himself. One look at the roof (no lead in the rain channels, joists too thin) and I knew he'd cut every corner imaginable. However, it's huge, south facing at the rear, with a triple sized garage outbuilding which is also south facing, and I'm handy.

Paid for the full flight survey, got a whopping discount on the condition of the building. BUT year round solar from sunrise to sunset on two roofs means tiny electricity bills, and I got a large workshop to play in.

Man, do I curse the work of the bloke who built it on the daily. I think he built it from the spare parts he had left from the other houses, nothing about it makes sense. Bizarre drainage, floors in thermal contact with the outer skin of the building, garden walls build on six inches of micro gravel, brick interior in the chimney, the roof looks like it was built from plans made by a child.

However, if you like DIY, want free electricity, lots of space, and a big workshop you couldn't otherwise afford, then removing the artex from every inch of every wall in the house was worth the effort.

All that said, don't half arse it.


foxrue OP t1_j9thllb wrote

Ha, this is basically what my partner said!


random_internet_data t1_j9t82lh wrote

Followed by... Putting down something other than tile.... I hate tile on the floor. Shower walls, backsplashes, etc. are great, tile floors suck.


merdub t1_j9tgh3m wrote

I agree with you. They’re SO cold, the grout ends up looking super gross so fast, they can make a space echoey, they’re hard on your back & feet, they show every little drip, smudge, footprint.

For a small bathroom I’d be fine with it but I would never ever tile anything larger than that in my house.


AdmiralPoopbutt t1_j9tj7ua wrote

Cold floors is a feature in hot climates. We have area rugs where appropriate and wear comfy slippers in the winter.

Wall to wall carpet is gross, even in a shoe-free household. I owned a very nice carpet cleaner when we had carpet and learned quickly that it is impossible to fully clean. With tile if you can wipe with a white cloth and not pull up much dirt, you can be assured that it is actually clean. All kinds of nasty stuff can hide in carpet even with excellent care.


random_internet_data t1_j9tqibx wrote

Team roll out vinyl? It's like the opposite.


merdub t1_j9u4sz6 wrote

If I was doing something from scratch I’d put in-floor heating under the tile in the bathroom, and engineered hardwood/LVP everywhere else.

Maybe put a carpet surround around the tub, just for that extra cozy moldy vibe.


kingfrito_5005 t1_j9val1y wrote

>the grout ends up looking super gross so fast

This is why I love black grout! Also I think it just looks cool, especially with brightly colored tiles.


epsilona01 t1_j9tgpj4 wrote

The last one I put down had 4" of rockwool and electric underfloor heating, because without that you're just installing a giant cold radiator.

I agree, anything but tile unless you have no other option.


random_internet_data t1_j9tqftv wrote

For bathrooms in my house, I love rollout vinyl now. It's cheap, easy, 100% waterproof and super comfortable.


epsilona01 t1_j9ucnxy wrote

I did riven slate in the kitchen because I love it to death, but vinyl is the very best stuff for bathrooms and it's so easy to replace.


Jisp_36 t1_j9t9brb wrote

Toilet cleaner gel with bleach - one product. Brand does not matter. Use product over the grout and let sit for 5 minutes. Use old toothbrush and scrub into grout. Use old rag with water to rinse. The rest of the day is yours to enjoy. :)


_Epcot_ t1_j9tdrwf wrote

This is literally the only thing that has ever worked for me. Should be the top comment. Zep has never worked. I use Soft Scrub. Literally night and day in less than an hour.


foxrue OP t1_j9thqgp wrote

I'm making a list of everything to try, and this is on it. Thank you!


_Epcot_ t1_j9tmq16 wrote

Buy a small brass brush. Use a thin line along the grout line. Use enough to barely cover. Gently brush for a bit. Wipe clean with a rag. Test a spot first.


Jisp_36 t1_j9tlmkc wrote

Good luck. Please keep us updated. Thank you. :)


merdub t1_j9thp1c wrote

I might be wrong so someone is welcome to correct me but I read that using bleach like this can break down any sealant and actually cause the grout to become more porous and stain even more.

I still do it because like you said, it works, and I live in an very old apartment rental and if those floors were ever sealed it was probably 30 tenants and 60+ years ago, but I don’t think I’d try it anywhere else without looking further into it.


Jisp_36 t1_j9tjfl3 wrote

I based my comment purely on the photo that the OP provided which looked to me like the grout was way past the point of any concern for sealants that may or may not have been applied previously. With no disrespect intended to the OP, is is clearly a well aged bathroom. Ask me how I know, lol. 😁


foxrue OP t1_j9vnone wrote

None taken! Actually, this bathroom is ten years old. The building was completed in 2009 and every corner was cut in the finishing.


loganab13 t1_j9rjnyp wrote

Tile isn’t laid on grout, it’s laid on thinset mortar. This is called quarry tile. Can you get better photos of the grout you’re dealing with?


WittyWest t1_j9s6xkk wrote

How is this a top comment? None of this is true. This is an unglazed porcelain... Close to Quarry but not. Tile is laid WITH thinset not ON it.

Also, it being laid on concrete is perfectly acceptable. I'm not sure what you assumed it should be laid on but even, clean concrete is the best substrate for tile. None of this has anything to do with cleaning grout. Grout is cementious just like concrete so using a cleaning product is mostly useless, especially if it was a lower grade cementious grout. Lifting stains with steam is much more effective. You can also buy an epoxy colorant and tape and paint the joints if it has become discolored. FYI.... ALL cementious grouts will become discolored eventually. You can grind it out and regrout, color it with epoxy colorant, steam it or just sanitize and move on...

I'm actually more worried about the transition between the 2 tiles, how do you not stub your toe on that? Tiles shouldn't be different heights without the use of a transition. EDIT: I guess this is a step down into your shower after looking closer. If you're worried about this being on concrete because it's the shower floor....the waterproofing is under the mud bed which is what is directly under the tile and thinset and looks like concrete.

Is that a wood base... In a shower?


loganab13 t1_j9s7a6n wrote

What the hell are you talking about?

  1. tile is absolutely laid on thinset with a notched trowel. The qualifiers “with” or “on” make zero difference in OP’s situation

  2. I never once stated it was unacceptable to lay tile on a concrete substrate

  3. This is absolutely quarry tile. I have either personally installed or overseen the install of this exact quarry tile nearly a dozen times in my two decade’s long career in various residential and commercial construction settings

  4. I asked if OP had clearer photos to adequately address the situation. Where you’re coming up with these wild generalizations is beyond me


WittyWest t1_j9s823f wrote

I have been in the tile sales business for 20 years, directly with the contractors and commercial dealers and installers...I've been to more TCNA and NTC classes than I care to relive. I know my shit. Not about everything but most definitely about the tile world.

Quarry tile is commercial kitchen tile and comes usually red or gray. It comes 6x6 and larger, is usually half inch thick.

This is unglazed porcelain mosaic used on shower floors. None of this is a generalization...I know tile. The thinset thing is just worded weird... We are saying the same thing there. It's an adhesive that provides a mechanical bond to adhere tile to a substrate. It comes powdered in a bag and is mixed with water to make a spreadable glue...yes applied with a trowel.


loganab13 t1_j9s8jic wrote

Quarry tile comes in everything from a dull white to a deep red in sizes from 4x4 up to 12x12. It is used everywhere from commercial kitchens to K12 educational environments to commercial automotive shops. I have dealt with literal tons of quarry tile in schools and homes built in the 1950’s to the early 2000’s and can confidently tell you it isn’t limited to red 6x6 tiles.

Just because you sell tile and have attended a handful of TCNA courses doesn’t make your knowledge the end-all, be-all. We’ll agree to disagree on this one.


lit19 t1_j9saeck wrote

Hey man. These are not quarry tiles by any definition. You can always tell a quarry tile because it's been extruded and will have a slight sandy texture on top - as opposed to a porcelain which remains smooth.


WittyWest t1_j9sa78c wrote

All good, a quick Google image search is enough to understand the difference between the 2 shrug. I've seen how calling products the wrong thing can cause a 10k repair bill when a shower has to be ripped out so you aren't the first and you definitely won't be the last.


keyserv t1_j9rtadt wrote

Either I suck at cleaning grout, or it's just really difficult to do. But I can never get it clean when it's so far gone. If you can't scour it with muriatic acid, you can grind it down in a couple different ways and re-grout.


AccomplishedEnergy24 t1_j9s165v wrote

You basically have to steam it repeatedly until you have gotten it all out of the pores.

If you want it to be easy to clean, don't use cement grouts. Polymer additives that promise stain proofness are not good enough Cement is quite porous, and so stuff gets in the pores and gets very stuck. Or just plain absorbed (in the case of oils, for example).

Polymer modified cement does not fix this. It just makes it a bit more flexible. LIke modified vs non-modified thinset.

Use reactive resin grouts, epoxy grouts, etc.

Then it will always be cleanable because they are not very porous (and some are just non-porous), so nothing can really soak into them except by being left forever, or being a chemical the grout is weak to softening the grout enough for something to stain it.

It takes me like 5 minutes with a steam cleaner to clean the grout in the bathrooms that have resin grouts from "a 6 year old uses this bathroom" to "it looks as new as the day it was made"

(Epoxy grout is nicer but if you don't get an aliphatic epoxy grout it will yellow in UV. Most people are not running around calling the tech line to talk about the chemistry of the grout, so resin grouts are usually a more solid DIY choice)


loumatic t1_j9tp90f wrote

What steam cleaner do you use? The type I'm picturing is confusing me with this application


AccomplishedEnergy24 t1_j9tr36m wrote

I have a handheld, and borrow a non-handheld if i have to.

The handheld is one of the variants you find if you search amazon for "handheld steam cleaner". There are a few real companies there (dupray, etc), and the rest is everyone selling the same mass-produced models.

I have one of those :)

If you are trying to steam clean cement grout, then using something larger because it will take a bunch of steam pressure to clean it.

For a non-cement grout, it's usually just stuff stuck on top, so it takes a lot less steam to get anywhere. Just enough heat + pressure to unstick it. Which is easy for a handheld.


foxrue OP t1_j9thk9r wrote

This is really good to know. Thank you!


RideAndShoot t1_j9s3gn9 wrote

XLGC is your friend. It’s non acidic but works like a muriatic acid. It bubbles up on dirty grout like hydrogen peroxide does on dirty wounds. It’s made by XL north and it’s their Grout Cleaner. Don’t use it on natural stone as it will etch it. And don’t splash it on stainless steel for the same reason.

Source: I’m a tile contractor.


keyserv t1_j9tfswj wrote

Never heard of it, but it sounds amazing!


Tygress23 t1_j9svb48 wrote

Correct me if I’m wrong but do you think the lines between the tiles are cement and not grout? That would be highly unlikely and doesn’t appear to be the case from the two photos. The way that tile is installed is usually a two step process. Step one is to adhere the tiles to the surface using thinset or mortar. This leaves all the edges of the tiles exposed as the bottom is the only part stuck down. In step two, all the gaps between the tiles are filled with a colored cement - sometimes with sand, sometimes with polymers, glitter, or other chemicals. This is what dries and what you are wanting to clean. It looks like concrete because it is concrete on a finer scale.

There are many tools on the market to remove grout, just be careful if you go that route not to chip the tile. Regrouting will give you the best results. Otherwise, I make a paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide and scrub with a grout brush after letting it sit for 10 minutes. That seems to work for me pretty well.

Having the floor retiled or retiling it yourself are also not very expensive options, and it’s a project that is very satisfying to complete and makes a big change.

Good luck!


foxrue OP t1_j9thu82 wrote

Thank you for the thoughtful response! Retiling seems to be in my future, but I'm excited to try a few cleaning methods first. If only for science!


gendabenda t1_j9s8h3y wrote

For the amount of work you'll do, you can just as easily grind the grout down and re-do it vs trying to save it. You'll appreciate it more as well.


snielson222 t1_j9tcw14 wrote

It looks like the grout is low enough that you could get away with a thorough cleaning and re grout the space. I would probably get a vibrating multi tool and grout blade to rough up all the grout first.

Steam cleaning works pretty well if you don't want to do all that work.

The best and most expensive option is re tile. I have never taken on a grout refinishing job as a professional.


tazmo8448 t1_j9slr6f wrote

if you don't mind 'elbow grease' use dish soap and white vinegar with a stiff bristle brush preferably small bristle and rinse clean


SkepticlosFailed t1_j9teajm wrote

I use a ajax/comet slurry with a stiff grout cleaning brush. You could rake the grout but that could be really time consuming, still less work than starting from scratch.


falconlover_47 t1_j9tm4a4 wrote

Toilet bowl cleaner and a toothbrush… don’t question it, but it works wonders


superkrazykatlady t1_j9s0c42 wrote

my suggestion ...stain the cement as dark black as possible. I mean ...of course clean it real good first. I have used a black grout pen on regular grout and it worked well.


Pauldurso t1_j9tfae3 wrote

Depending on how much time and type of mess you want to make. That a prefect sub floor to tile over or putting laminated flooring,ether one will work properly. High end thinset if you tile over it. Laminate flooring directly on top no glue or thinset necessary.Removing would be extremely messy labor-intensive Need to know what you were doing so that would be the last options.


Agent_Paul_UIU t1_j9tgrey wrote

Domestos. Without dilution. A lots more than you think. Basically pour it directrly over the grout everywhere. Then wait. 1-2 hours. It will whiten the grout, like magic, with almost no scrubbing.

Or pour some colored epoxy. Can look fantastic, if you use the right material, and it matches the style. One of the guys i know makes marble style, professionally.


hv_piezo t1_j9thill wrote

From this one photo, looks like there is quite the transition (i.e. lots of room for buildup). I would not bother trying to remove the tiles if there is no need to.

Personally, I would put a layer of Schluter Ditra underlayment (use polymer modified thinset), let this cure. And then lay some new tiles over this. With this underlayment, you can lay large tiles if you want (personal preference) and not worry about cracking from the house settling/moving from temp changes) as this is the role of the underlayment (movement absorber,best way to describe it). Non-modified thinset OK here, use the correct trowel notching for the tile size, and backbutter the tiles before setting. Let cure and then grout the gaps with whatever color you choose (lots of options to suit the decor/tile color).


dudsmm t1_j9tn3i8 wrote

Schluter Ditra. Set this right over top and put down a tile you like over top.



Raul_McCai t1_j9toxxi wrote

A hydrogen peroxide cleanser won't risk etching the grout. But before peroxide cleaners came along people just mixed bleach and water and went to town with a brush.

The fact of the concrete is irrelevant.


nishnawbe61 t1_j9u08g7 wrote

I go to the dollar store and buy that blue colored toilet bowl cleaner. Squirt it on the grout. Scrub with a hard bristle scrub brush. Rinse with clean water and looks good as new. Shocking and a heck of a lot cheaper than grout cleaner.


Born2Lomain t1_j9u9777 wrote

This looks fine clean it up a little then use a grey grout and just apply over the whole surface and sponge like you would any other grout job. Seal the grout when your done


moshennik t1_j9uanlb wrote

Call a refinishing company and have a coating applied over it. Permanent solution.

Just call someone who has experience applying it over tile. Miracle Method is a national franchise.


RabbitWhisperer4Fun t1_j9us2oo wrote

Let me just start by saying I’ve applied about 40 tons of grout over the years as one of my side hustles along with customer tile work in contracting. Much of it commercial.
To bleach clean concrete that has been used as grout you would use Muriatic Acid available in any pool supply shop for about $30/gallon. It is unlikely they use concrete for the actual grout even if they were oblique enough to apply a tile application directly to a concrete floor. But…this is not uncommon in industrial / commercial applications where they call it “industry standard” when they mean “It’s good enough and will last past the call back date”. Run a screw driver or grout pick over an out of the way bit of cracked or ruined grout to see if it is grout (it will scratch easily) or concrete (will appear hard and unscratched). Don’t use a lot of elbow grease, you are not prying out the grout, you are just trying to lightly scratch through whatever miasma has built up over the years to see the original material. Treat it like you are keying you least favorite neighbor’s car to try and scratch the actual grout line. The tile will not scratch. Grout will scratch and look powdery and concrete will chip or only scratch lightly even with lots of effort (which, again, not needed). If it’s concrete us muriatic acid. If it’s grout the use a professional product called 477 (It’s been about 25 years since my last job so I don’t know if they still make it and sell it. If so…USE GOOD VENTILATION!!!! It works but it can really give a guy a headache! Probably have really good ventilation with ANY chemical you use! If it were me and a floor looked like that I would pull out all the grout (grout picks are designed for this) about a 20 minute job, then use the pick to pull lightly on all tiles to see if any are ready to pop or already loose, then I would vacuum every last bit of dust and old grout up and spritz the grout line with a spray of water and regrout the whole bathroom with a fresh clean grout that can be properly sealed. If you are this ambitious us SANDED GROUT! It’s a little harder and messier to work with but it is far better for commercial use. SEAL your new grout properly! (TWICE).. Sanded grout expands and contracts more closely to concrete than unsanded grout. And for god sakes don’t use silicon or some silly stuff in a tube that promises lifetime adhesion…you will be pulling it out in a month when it starts mildewing and stinking and staining. Buy yourself a $30 grout bag and make a clean job of it or do it like us old farts and trowel it and clean up after. Concrete and tile/grout expand and contract at different rates so you are going to have small cracks and spaces along the sides of the tiles that will darken over time. If you go to a box box home DIY store you can buy an adequate sealer for ‘stone’ that will fill in the tiny cracks and keep the tiles from ‘popping’ over time…and they WILL start popping off over time and you will try to glue them back down or some such craziness because…”It’s just a couple tiles”. Once you use the acid to clean (following the safe handling instructions) and it looks great, go back in and seal everything. Wait for it to dry to the touch, tie small garbage bags around your feet like medical footies to keep from fouling the uncurled sealer and go back in with a dry Terri cloth towel and wipe the sealer off the TOP of the tile (but don’t push down into the grout!). Keep your towel folded flat so it skims only the tops of the tiles and removes the sealer. That stuff will build up and look awful if left on the tiles. But it fills in the small gaps and after it’s cured will allow you to go back in and scrub the grout every few months to keep it looking clean. Nothing is forever and you will need to do this every three or four years if you want that floor to last. No one likes ugly, but why spend money if it still functions as it should?


foxrue OP t1_ja182km wrote

This answer told me so much I didn't know. Thank you!


macimom t1_j9wbwlf wrote

pour floor self leveler on it and retile with something you like


Itsthatguywithcats t1_j9sundf wrote

To be honest, you'd get a cleaner and quicker result by tiling over with bigger tile. Small tiles are going out of style anyways...

That's what I would do. Roughen up the remaining tile, apply the correct tile on tile adhesive (very important!), retile and grout, done. 5 hour job max, from the look of your bathroom it's kind of small.

I'd not do that if it was a bigger bathroom / area (stress fractures more likely).


liltiger1 t1_j9tdd7p wrote

Sugar soap and a brush…. Do a small bit at a time….