Submitted by VegUltraGirl t3_zvlair in Maine
AriusTech t1_j1qygvd wrote
Reply to comment by [deleted] in How prepared are you for these long power outages? by VegUltraGirl
Generac systems self cycle weekly minimizing service/maintenance and yes they automatically switch the power system and run when the power goes out. They are $7k - $10k tho, so it's definitely an investment. I live in the city, so a full system is a waste as our power is repired pretty quickly 99% of the time... My camp, on the other hand, looses power for 2-4 days at a time so currently I have to go up with my little 2000watt inverter generator to run the heat every day or two so it doesn't freeze up. I want a nice automatic generator up there, but it's alot of cash to spend for a few weekends a winter. Edit: I have a 7000watt generator that I can attach to my panel in the city too, but it was about $800 and I went to school for electricity so I can safely patch it in on the few occasions I need it.
reddit-toq t1_j1rp18b wrote
If you can’t afford the $7-$10K for an automatic failover Generac system look into a self installed transfer switch and a regular 5-8K watt gas generator. The transfer switch isn’t difficult to install yourself but if you are worried an electrician can do it for you. 8K likely won’t be enough to power your whole house but should be enough to power the furnace fan, a few lights and the fridge. Total costs should be in the $2K -$4K range.
ozzie286 t1_j1r2wcd wrote
I live a bit outside the city, but have an older 7000w generator. I didn't lose power, but my brother did. I lent him my generator, and turns out it has issues, because it hasn't been run since I got it a couple years ago.
EDIT: before anyone says it, it was completely drained of gas (tank emptied, float bowl removed and dumped) before storage.
AriusTech t1_j1r5b8a wrote
Regular startups are important. The shizz is like $25 a gallon, but "True Fuel" is the key to maintenance IMO. I run fresh 93 octane when I need to run it for hours, but I run it out or drain it and put about a half gallon of true fuel in and run it into the fuel system for storage. It's long term stable and ethanol free, so I just fire the sucker up a few time a year and haven't had issues since.
eljefino t1_j1s6c44 wrote
I've got a dual fuel generator, gasoline/ propane. I always "finish" by shutting off the gas and running propane through it, which absolutely completely dries out the carburetor of any gas residue whatsoever.
Anyone shopping generators should consider one, they aren't much more than gas-only models. You can also get a retrofit carb for $35 on amazon.
ozzie286 t1_j1r8exz wrote
Stop wasting your money on 93 octane. Higher octane rating fuels exist to prevent detonation (fuel igniting before the spark plug fires) in high compression/forced induction engines. Small engines are neither. Some cars can adjust their ignition timing to compensate for power octane and take advantage of higher octane. Small engines cannot. There is no benefit, at all, to running high octane fuel in any small engine.
I also don't buy true fuel, I suspect it's no better than pump gas + stabil.
I worked for several years as a small engine mechanic. I had fully intended to check/clean the carb before running it, but in the craziness of Christmas Eve, didn't get a chance to, so rolled the dice. He got his power back Christmas day, so I never went out to his house to fix it. I'm seriously debating filling the carb with motor oil, to protect it from corrosion and not have to worry about it.
AriusTech t1_j1rckb7 wrote
Interesting. I have been told by relatively high level mechanics that higher octane is better, but that was for my tuned and high output modern engines. I instinctively applied that conclusion to my small engines, but after reading up just now I see that you are correct. I also read that stabilizers increased corrosion in the past, but apparantly Stabil does not. Thank you for drawing my attention to this!
Despite this info, I will probably still run 93 because I have it for my boat, and still store my small engines with trufuel because it is ethenol free. Thanks again.
JAP42 t1_j1rwq75 wrote
Canned fuel is much better then pump fuel due to ethanol. No stabilizer will stop phase separation. Fill the tank and carb with canned fuel and it will start easily for 2+ years. If you drain out pump fuel that already had water that moisture won't pour out, it will stay there and corrode. I manage a small engine shop, we do this work daily and we test pump fuel monthly. We've gotten 10% water in "fresh" 90+ fuel. Usually no more then 1 or 2% in 87. In a vented generator tank in the fall with humidity and temperature all over the place there can be 10% water in 2 weeks.
ozzie286 t1_j1s41fu wrote
Many gas stations sell ethanol free fuel. Even if you have to drive a bit to find it, it'll still be cheaper than the true fuel.
JAP42 t1_j1s84cc wrote
Ya, IDK about many. In northern Maine where the fuel comes from Canada premium can be Ethanol free. Southern and Central Maine are much farther and fewer. And from the few places I've gotten some from its been really poor quality. In reality what's $25 of fuel to store your equipment and know it's going to run vs $200+ carb repairs.
ozzie286 t1_j1sgbv3 wrote
I can buy a carb for my snow blower for $25, and I know of at least 3 gas stations within a half an hour drive that sell ethanol free fuel.
JAP42 t1_j1sgtjz wrote
Congratulations, not everyone can buy 4 Amazon carbs the day the generator does not start on the off chance one works every time the power goes out.
AriusTech t1_j1t3h3j wrote
Not to mention that the Chinese carbs on Amazon are hot garbage. My $500 Mikuni on my ATV is not equivalent to the $60 "replacement" on Amazon... Speaking from experience unfortunately.
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