I am about to make my first 3D-printed Dactyl-ManuForm style keyboard which has no PCB. The CAD files I am thinking of using are Tom Shorts designs.

I am thinking of modifying the build a bit by making it hot-swappable but I have heard 3D-printed things are brittle. The current plan is to use ready-made hot-swap sockets. I think the durability of these ought to not be the issue as it would be if I printed even these by myself. But how about the structure that supports these sockets? I have no experience with 3D printers so I am wondering if you have some experience in making 3D-printed hot-swappable keyboards, I would like to hear about how you have made it work out.

Tom Shorts designs by Zack Freedman:

https://thangs.com/designer/ZackFreedman/3d-model/Dactyl-ManuForm%205x6%20Mechanical%20Keyboard-10466?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=zack_f

Hot-swap sockets:

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-swappable-Socket-CPG151101S11-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07K8CCMQZ

Comments

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shaunsingh0207 t1_iu5dk0l wrote on October 28, 2022 at 5:50 PM

#291,476

Hot swap sockets are usually held in place on the pcb by solder, if you're going with a hardwired build I highly suggest skipping the hot swap sockets.

If you really want to use hot swap sockets, I suggest either designing and/or buying a pcb that has the pads for hot swap sockets, or you can model one of the hot swap sockets and print a "mold" for the bottom that "cradles" it

deorul t1_iu5lsje wrote on October 28, 2022 at 6:46 PM

#293,005

Haven't made a 3d printed keyboard, but I've got thousands of 3d prints under my belt. Using PETG instead of PLA will make it tougher, more impact resistant, and less brittle. That's what I'd recommend as far as material if you're concerned with brittleness.

nico_h t1_iu5t4vp wrote on October 28, 2022 at 7:36 PM

#294,426

Maybe there’s a Dactyl that has bottoms for the key wells with cutouts & slots for sockets ? Then with a slicer with tree support it could be possible to print, Otherwise you can search for hotswap sockets on this forum.

nico_h t1_iu5ta82 wrote on October 28, 2022 at 7:37 PM

#294,451

Replying to deorul (#293,005)

Any advice on reducing stringing and blobs of PETG Prints?

Cra4ord t1_iu73fze wrote on October 29, 2022 at 1:29 AM

#302,694

You can make it hot swap-able with brake down PCBs https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1242724034/amoeba-kings-25-single-key-pcbs-per?click_key=e4560f8bfe48aa37afdfc30a8ddc40903dc27fde%3A1242724034&click_sum=d20323e2&ref=hp_opfy-1

deorul t1_iu7lywa wrote on October 29, 2022 at 4:15 AM

#305,858

Replying to nico_h (#294,451)

Best advice would be to print a temperature tower, modify your retraction distances, and also get your e-steps correct for PETG specifically.

its_james_t t1_iu8i6m8 wrote on October 29, 2022 at 11:34 AM

#310,522

It should be possible.

I've done it with cut acrylic

Little test thing I did

For a macro pad

Acrylic can be brittle too, probably less so in the amount and direction of the force, but you could perhaps have the holes printed a bit more snug, so they stay in there hard.