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Tweetydabirdie t1_j6jcemp wrote

Its got absolutely nothing to do with being hot-swap, and all to do with your choice of plate.

An acrylic top plate is not 1.6mm thick which is what the switches are designed to grip, but 2mm or 3mm instead. So you aren't locking the switches in place as designed, but simply have them stuck in there as 'press fit'.

All on you for making a choice of aesthetic over function.

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shizzy0 OP t1_j6jmpp9 wrote

When I designed this case and poured the molten acrylic into the mud holes, I must’ve mismeasured the holes or used cm instead of inches.

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Tweetydabirdie t1_j6jsn1t wrote

Sure, I’ll believe that… 😉

Not in any way saying an acrylic plate is a bad choice. It’s just a known issue that the switches isn’t locking. So for a keyboard you move around a lot it might not be the obvious choice.

You can get around it by machining cutouts for the locking tabs into a 3mm acrylic. I tried that once. Only once, and it was a major PITA.

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t0b4cc02 t1_j6jia8e wrote

isnt acrylic plates available in different thicknessses?

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Tweetydabirdie t1_j6jrkzp wrote

Sure, but a 1.6mm acrylic plate is very unusual since it’s thin enough that it simply cracks.

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a_wifi_has_no_name t1_j6jw578 wrote

To be fair, I just built an Iris, and they don't warn you about using thick plates and hotswap boards. (Luckily, I went with acrylic and solder PCB.) Splitkb does if you use their Composer tool, but I didn't see anything about it anywhere else. If this is your first build, it's an easy mistake to make.

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