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ReaLx3m t1_itp9bbp wrote

Reply to comment by ischolarmateU in What is the absolute cheapest pair of headphones/IEMs you would describe as enjoyable? by DwellerInIce

Idk man, im kind of suspicious... Your next comment should have been "where do i get those filters", as usually people are not this far into modding. Unless you are, and know about those and where to get them?

hmmmm idk idk.

IM WATCHING YOU :P :)

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ischolarmateU t1_itpdw50 wrote

Yiu are right, i have mire questions but at tgat time i was on my way to bed to catch that 6h of sleep and now im at work i am gonna have questions when i get from work lol

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ReaLx3m t1_itq06ah wrote

Sure, ask away if something isnt clear.

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ischolarmateU t1_itrz1xs wrote

First of all what kind of tuning does oxygen have? Because i need sone warm headphones iems..because well hd 560s re bright same goes for s12 i guess that tinhifi t3+ arent...

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ReaLx3m t1_itua6m9 wrote

Since i dont have the Oxygen, well cal them by their name, modded Blons. Though they do identify as Oxygens(pretty progressive, i know).

They have Harmanish(warmer with more body/weight) tuning, which i find better, as i dont really like the plain harman curve. In my configuration, theyre not warm per se, but will be warmer sounding than the S12. I find the tuning practically perfect for everything i listen, and i think they will sound right with anything. To mention few, my mostly listened genres are Vocal/acoustic Jazz, Reggae, EDM, Alternative, Classic Rock, Acoustic Rock etc.

Going by the FRC(as i dont have them), compared to S12, most noticeable would be theyre less shouty because of couple of db lower at 2KHz, smoother vocals(less raspiness in the voices) because of also couple of db lower at 3KHz. And generally a feeling of the band being bit farther away because of that dip at around 6-7KHz, which sort of contributes to the warmth feeling. Though mostly its bass that will affect warmth. You can try yourself with 250Hz band on GEQ, going down makes the sound colder, and up makes the sound warmer. But warmer also means bass covering some of the mid frequencies so you might not really want that. I think what might be bothering you in the S12 is the 2KHz ammount, and mostly the flatness at around 6-7KHz. You can try lowering 2KHz Q1.5 by 1-2db, and also 7.2KHz by around 4-5db with Q3 and see how you like the results. Use peaking filters.

You would need parametric EQ to target the frequencies i mention, on android you want "Poweramp Equalizer" and on Windows "Equalizer APO + Peace GUI".

You could also try this bit more complex EQ for your S12

  • Preamp: -1.7db

  • Fr: 2180Hz, Q: 5.106, Gain: -1.2

  • Fr: 4568Hz, Q: 4.338, Gain: 2.3

  • Fr: 5427Hz, Q: 7.452, Gain: 1.4

  • Fr: 6036Hz, Q: 3.251, Gain: -1.4

  • Fr: 7596Hz, Q: 3.478, Gain: -4.8

  • Fr: 9946Hz, Q: 1.000, Gain: -1.2

This should bring your S12 to the FR of my modded Blon, though not really ideal way to do it because of unit variation, also ideally i would need to verify the resulting FR after applying the EQ by measuring. But should at least give you the general picture.

Or not ideal, but closest you can get to that result with Graphic Equalizer is:

  • Preamp: -1.1db

  • Fr: 1000Hz, Gain: 1.1db

  • Fr: 2000Hz, Gain: -1db

  • Fr: 4000Hz, Gain: 1.1db

  • Fr: 8000Hz, Gain: -6.9db

I recommend you go with the PEQ

If you get those filters i mention i used for my mod, you can also play with your S12, and probably will manage to bring them to a level more to your liking with just the nozzle filters.

Btw, what size is the nozzle of the S12?

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ischolarmateU t1_itum9s9 wrote

I ll give u more in depth abswer tomorow when i have time... But do you know akros, yesterday i remembered that i saw him make a video on " bloxygen" some time ago?

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ReaLx3m t1_itup5v9 wrote

It was a video on youtube that inspired me doing the mod, it was some time ago so i dont recall the name of the channel. Though that "Bloxygen" rings a bell, so its probably the same guy.

I remember that Tanchjim Oxygen filters were used on the nozzles(and Y2 on the driver). With what im using, and the measurements i have available to me, i find my results very close to target.

Thanks for the reminder of "Bloxygen". Dont remember what he achieved, but will search youtube with that term, curios to compare.

Edit:

Searched around Akros channel, and yep, thats definitely the guy. Its these 2 videos

The mod - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdFaGm13qaA

The measurements - https://youtu.be/VAiVek2h1rQ?t=1221

When i normalize my charts at 1KHz results are pretty close with what he got, almost the same. Though as i mentioned in one of the previous comments, with my blon sample(there can be some variation), 300 or 350 nozzle filter should bring it even closer and compensate for that around 1-2db difference in the 2-4KHz regions(this would also affect the dip at 6-7KHz, and i like it the way it is currently), and Y2(instead of the Y3 im using) on the driver for the 1db bass difference. Dont have them glued still as they hold pretty well only with the pins, so i might try this variant in the future.

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ischolarmateU t1_iu0hjdn wrote

Nozzle outer size is 5.84 mm

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ReaLx3m t1_iu0tgs8 wrote

I was asking that in context of the nozzle filters, so curious to know the inner diameter.

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ischolarmateU t1_iu3ltrx wrote

I have a question, do you think mod is achiveable if you have shaky hands, because i imagine its much harder, like im interested in doing it, but thats my biggest concern

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ReaLx3m t1_iu3x1wy wrote

Its not like i have surgeon hands, but if you have like alcoholic without a drink shaky hands then idk :).

You just glue the filter edge on a needle tip and lay it down on the driver back, its pretty easy that way imo, easier than using tweezers. Even if you missalign the filter at first try you can peel off and try again.

Getting the 4mm nozzle filter in is bit more finicky, but do it the same way with the needle and once its aligned properly then just push around the edges with the blunt end of the needle so you bring the filter down to the filter shelf in the nozzle and glue them to it. You can potentially instead of 4mm use larger filter for the nozzle(4.5-5mm should do) and just glue it on the top of the nozzle, just like in the video on the Akros channel where the guy uses larger Tanchjim Oxygen filters for the nozzle. But this way you can potentially unglue them when changing tips, so i prefer it my way, with a 4mm filter inside the nozzle.

Smallest amount you can get those filters in is 10 pieces for the Y and 20 pieces for the nozzle filters, so even if you manage to mangle/ruin some im pretty sure youll be able to do it by accident in the end :).

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