TIFU by going to the dealership by myself…

Submitted by Euphoric_Feeling_272 t3_111scxz in tifu

I just purchased a car about a week ago now and a few hours ago opened my bank app and saw that my car loan is ready to be viewed/payed. The things is that I purchased the car for $25k and put a $10k down payment... but it says I owe $25k.... Not 15k. So I'm very confused. Where the fuck is the 10k I put down???

So after looking at the paperwork I noticed some add ons they never mentioned.

The sales man said the car was going to be $25k, but when I went to the finance office to sign the loan they never mentioned the 9k they added in warranties and add ons… so basically my entire down payment :) fml

So now what can I do. Like I mentioned before I purchased the car last week and I have no idea what to do now. Can I fight to get the add ons and warranty’s taken off after not mentioning them and even after I signed?

Btw I have an audio recording of everything which I’ve listened over and over again and they definitely never mentioned the 9k add on :)

Any help/suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you <3

TL:DR I bought a car for 25k after putting down 10k and the amount due is still 25k because the dealership added 9k on add ons and now idk what to do. So I might be fucked for the next 72 months :’)

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Boring-Pudding t1_j8gj3a2 wrote

This is why you always read your contracts before signing them, boys and girls.

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The-Phreak t1_j8ju2a3 wrote

This is why you sign at the bank and not the dealership.

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hails8n t1_j8kgwfs wrote

This. You almost always get better financing outside the dealership

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Jman9999999999 t1_j8ubkmq wrote

All the dealerships I worked at get you financed through the banks. With the bank rates.

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1feralengineer t1_j8gj5q2 wrote

Review everything you signed, if you signed for the $34k, then your audio recording is not going to be of much use.

If you didn't sign for anything beyond the $25k, then you have a fraud case

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NDALLASFORTY t1_j8gpbhp wrote

I worked at a dealership for a while. What amazed me was how the F/I guy would gross twice as much as the salesman AFTER a price was agreed upon. When you get in that back office, just say NO. And NEVER finance a car at a dealer. NEVER EVER EVER

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Graega t1_j8gujkn wrote

I financed my current car through my credit union I've had for 20 years. For almost 3 months after I bought it, I got dozens of rejection letters for auto loans from places like, "Jim Bob's Tractor Supply Bank of Bumfuck Ohio". I managed to get about $3k of aftermarket stuff refunded from the dealer over that, and last I heard the Attorney General's office is still investigating them.

NEVER finance your car from a dealer folks. Even if you're already got it financed they're still crooks.

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NDALLASFORTY t1_j8hzctx wrote

Credit unions will usually give you the best rate over most lending institutions. Usually.

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Jman9999999999 t1_j8u8m3h wrote

So in Canada, the dealership finances you through the banks. This is a new car dealership, not some random corner lot. I've worked 4 different dealership. Not one had there owe financing thing, it was all done through the banks. Might be different in the states, I don't know.

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Yavinite t1_j8gktec wrote

You already have your answer in all the other posts - you signed a contract that it seems like you may not have fully understood? The car was never actually 25k, it looks like the actual price was closer to 27k and then you got a service agreement and some aftermarket things and taxes. Yes, you should have brought someone with you that understands these things.

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Ochre1 t1_j8h2pr9 wrote

Car dealerships can be shady, especially the smaller used car lot "buy here, pay here, no credit, no problem!" type of spots. If they tacked on a costly extended warranty, you MAY be able to get a refund for most of it, or even all.

Hopefully your state's rules on this are consumer friendly. I know for an absolute fact that in certain states you have a window to notify the warranty company that you changed your mind and don't the coverage anymore. In some states, as long as you cancel in the first couple weeks, they have to give you back every dime. In other places you might only be eligible for a pro-rated refund. I'm assuming that in some shitty fuckin' states they can probably just keep it and you might be screwed.

If they refuse to refund or try using stall tactics, look into which state regulatory agency has jurisdiction over warranty companies and file a complaint.

Hopefully the bulk of the added cost is a warranty. If its shit like "weatherproof undercoating" or some other nonsense then it might not be so easy but you could look into returning the vehicle at that point.

Again, this all comes down to where you live and local regulations, but don't listen to these other posters saying you're boned. Good luck!

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larrysaysrelax t1_j8h2dsm wrote

Most of those things are cancellable.

Depending on the brand of the Vehicle Service Agreement I might keep that, espeically if its reasonably priced/term/mileage.

As people have said, read the figures before you sign.

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Jasun31 t1_j8gus6o wrote

I would go back to the dealership and ask for the general sales manager. Have them explain your contract and the add ons. Then decide if you want to cancel it( you will then be on the hook if your car breaks). They will cancel it and the amount they charged you will then come off your loan. Don’t forget about $2,500 or so depending on state is taxes and registration

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per54 t1_j8h5yfj wrote

Most add on stuff have XS cancelation options.

Also.. if you’re broke you should have got a car for $10k. Not 10k down

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datDANKie t1_j8jmek4 wrote

you wrote more and read more in this thread, with more effort

than the actually contract

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International-Pie162 t1_j8gpgsv wrote

Bruh…you’re a broke college kid and you put down a TEN THOUSAND DOLLAR down payment on a car?!?!? 🤯🤯

I know it’s not helpful now, but why not take 10k and spend it on a used car??

Lol…forget about that 25k…assuming interest isn’t figured into that amount, you could possibly be on the hook for upwards of 30k 🥴

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Young-yunna-yunna t1_j8hd5xg wrote

Idk if you’ve tried buying a car recently but a 5-6 year old Honda civic is going for around 20k now a days used car market is nuts

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LNO_ t1_j8hse8l wrote

Sounds like a story for /r/personalfinance/. You can find similar situations and suggestions on what can be done there (check under flair auto).

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akrazyho t1_j8i0eg0 wrote

You can cancel the car warranty if you want to, but you need to call the warranty company right away to do it you should be able to get that money discounted from your loan. Seeing how you’re just gullible and you probably sign for every single add-on they have at the dealer you probably got a wheel and tire package seat, protection package, a paint, protection, package, monks, other things, but a couple of those you should be able to cancel out right through the dealer. Time is not your friend you need to go right away and call the warranty company and get that squared away and then go to the dealer and return what you can more than likely you can return the wheel and tire package I don’t know about the seat, protection package or the paint protection package but it’s worth a shot and don’t let them bully you into not doing it ‘. If you’re this bad with conflicts and financial stuff, please take somebody you can trust to guide you in the right direction.

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loserkids1789 t1_j8j1752 wrote

Based on the photos you posted in that other group, it’s pretty clear and dry what you signed.

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jaydoes t1_j8uw9er wrote

Go back there and tell them remove everything and rewrite the contract for the price they quoted you minus the add ons. If they don't you call FTC and tell them the entire story and that you have an audio recording to back that up. Unless they're crooks they won't want that.

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ManuSwaG t1_j8inloz wrote

r/legaladvice

They are oriented with trying to help you. Especially mention that you have an audio recording

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Oatz3 t1_j8j6dlo wrote

If you paid for an extra warranty and haven't used them yet you may be able to back out of them. Check your paperwork. Could save you some of that.

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ajcranst t1_j8nd8h6 wrote

Former car salesman here. In my state, we had to have clients sign off on the full price with all warranties and fees applied. Search for a piece of a paper with a box with a price next to a signature box, likely on the bottom of the form.

If you signed something agreeing to take out a 25k loan, you may be out of luck.

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slopmarket t1_j9n9f98 wrote

Your paperwork literally says it’s 35k…

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Euphoric_Feeling_272 OP t1_j9nfcr7 wrote

Edit: thanks to everyone who was very nice and kind and messaged me directly to try to help my situation out. I appreciate it 🫶🏻

I ended up calling the dealership a couple of times until I was connected to the manager. After a couple minutes of explaining situation to him, he was able to take off all the extra add ons I did not agree to. He was not able to remove the warranty so instead he wrote me a check for $3.6k (which is the cost of the warranty) meaning I get to keep the warranty for free and in total there is now 8k of add ons off from the loan.

Making my loan $17,000 ☺️

Screw everyone who was super mean on the comments :)

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TechnicallyAllergic t1_j8lfg4b wrote

Depending on country/state in the US you might be able to cancel the entire purchase within 24-72+ hours. Read your contract and find out if you can return the car. You'll be on the hook for mileage or fees but it will be a lot less than 10K.

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