1feralengineer

1feralengineer t1_j6obqvj wrote

Reply to What’s the point of avoiding an NC-17 rating these days? by TakeOffYourMask

>But theatres are dead/dying

This is a regional thing.

I have lived in places where you had to wait in line for hours to buy very expensive tickets and sit in cramped disgusting conditions and watch a film on a small screen barely visible because the bulb in the projector was dying

I have lived in places where the theater was pristine, the screens were enormous, luxury seating, tickets were cheap, and you were the only person in the place.

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1feralengineer t1_j5w7h76 wrote

Reply to Bonding Sub Panel to Main Panel Question by G0BLINxKING

There are conflicting ways to do this because of differing circumstances (and sometimes because of various regulatory agencies "knowing" best).

When doing electrical work, if it isn't intuitive to you (because you understand it and have experience with it), you really should run your plan past someone who can look at it, including your local building inspector.

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1feralengineer t1_j5r8oys wrote

Reply to comment by Mech2021 in Awning Basement Windows Won't Stay Open by Mech2021

Without putting my hands on it I cannot be certain, but it looks like simply changing the latch location on the hinge would take care of the issue. There are many ways to accomplish this.

The easiest would be to use a hack saw on the hinge piece that is attached to the window; cut 3/8" up the tab that supports the hinge pin. Cut the old latch tongue off and then bend in a new latch tongue from the remaining stock created by the first cut.

If you can visualize what I am saying, and have the tools, I would say it would take ten minutes per side of each window.

If what I am saying doesn't make sense, or you don't have the tools... Then I would take some more pictures and find a local machine shop. Then take one hinge (both pieces on one side) to the machine shop, show them the pictures and explain what you need done (i.e. reduce the latch angle). They can easily either fabricate new hinges, or modify yours. If you are not in a hurry, then let them know that they can work on the project at a slow time and that might save you some money.

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1feralengineer t1_j3qt2su wrote

Reply to Do I need a floor in a firewood shed? by Barbadosslims

Somewhat depending on your location, but in general wood in contact with soil means bugs. Termites are your worst enemy, but I assume you don't want to bring any bugs into your house with your firewood.

Two things you never want to do: stack firewood against your house (garage or any structure made of wood); or lay your wood directly (indirectly) on soil.

There are plenty of barriers you could use that are cheap and would offer some protection (pressure treated lumber and tarps is one way to go)

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1feralengineer t1_j2rnsfk wrote

Reply to comment by StoneTemplePilates in How many of these recessed lights can I use on a dimmer switch? by notscammed

>What am I missing?

Power factor.

VA only equals watts in a purely resistive circuit (PF=1). In an AC circuit if the current sine wave leads the voltage sine wave (capacitive load), or the current sine wave follows the voltage sine wave (inductive load) the apparent power (VA) is higher than the actual power (W). PF=W/VA

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1feralengineer t1_j2qbvvq wrote

Reply to comment by StoneTemplePilates in How many of these recessed lights can I use on a dimmer switch? by notscammed

The 600w rating is for a pure resistive load.

LEDs are a nonlinear load. They would fall in the capacitive category (the current leads the voltage by about a factor of about 0.8 full load/brightness). Dimming them can shift the power factor significantly (just because the wattage is reduced doesn't mean the current is reduced - especially peak currents that interplay with the semiconductors that do the heavy lifting of the dimmer).

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1feralengineer t1_j0xgbec wrote

Reply to comment by madoc007 in Cold air pouring in between door casing and floor, how do I fix? by madoc007

Based on what I can see, it looks like the door weatherstrip is good, but not sure what is going on with the casing and the wood threshold. The discoloration (especially around the fasteners) indicates moisture.

The fact that the door is mostly window, what you feel may just be heat loss and not actually air exchange.

Try taping a thin piece of tissue paper to the end of a stick. Then hold the tissue paper in various places to see if it flaps around (showing actual air movement).

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1feralengineer t1_iybnkc2 wrote

Reply to comment by geramanj95 in Tapping noise in ceiling! by geramanj95

There could be something loose on the siding outside. Also, the backdraft flapper on a vent fan (kitchen or bathroom or even the dryer vent) can be affected by the wind (you can try turning the fan or dryer on when you hear the banging and see if that changes it). And rain can also find its way to dripping onto metal flashing/eves/vents.

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