Check that the heating element has 240 volts across the inputs when the power is on. Be very careful when you're doing this, do not short anything and do not touch anything electrical with your body.

Try that, and make sure those connections are tight. Make sure the dryer is unplugged before you tighten

Do you have to a multimeter?

Check the control board for any blown glass fuses if you aren't getting 220VAC (in the US) between both spade connectors on the new coil

Electrical wouldn't need to move, look up extension rings, they're meant for this actually! https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-1-2-in-1-Gang-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00004/100159668

>My understanding that the updated NEC only requires arc fault breakers for 20/15 amp outlets in bedrooms.

........ No.

Re-read the NEC if you're going to cite it.

Nononono

Don't do this. You're thinking in the right direction though.

If the receptacle is only rated for 20 Amp even though the wire is over sized, you breaker for the lowest rated component. In this case, the the receptacle.

Use a 20a breaker.

As far as connecting the receptacle, use a 12 gauge pigtail. It's not rated for 8awg

This. And clean that roof, otherwise it won't be fine for long!

FYI the insulation batting that's up there either has an oddly variegated dark back side of the vapor barrier or you've got a mold issue too. Find the source of the leak and fix that.

As far as the lead paint, there are cheap test kits from your local big box store. Ask the paint department where to find these.

Espresso stain is notorious for being tough to get an even coat with.

Try a water or oil based stain too.... The gel stuff is kind of "gimmicky".

Honestly not sure I could explain in text, but once you get the p trap kit, it'll have instructions on it as far as which way to orient the gaskets etc

Go grab a p trap kit from homedepot/your big box store. It'll be about maybe $5?

If the p trap is siphoned dry after you shut off the water from the sink (it shouldn't, but might depending on how the behind the wall section is plumbed), you will need to add an under counter vent between the wall connection and the trap but that's only if needed.

Typical bot response

Bot

Could also get 2 sheets of stone that are bookended, so the pattern continues

It makes a hell of a difference!

Toilets are easy to replace, especially if you have a helper guiding you as far as positioning goes.

I wouldn't recommend cheaping out on a toilet, this is one area where expensive is better (to a point). $100-$150 per toilet is a good starting budget here in the Midwest USA.

The cold water may be getting used more often than the hot.

Stagnant water freezes much quicker in pipes as fresh water carries heat energy with it.

Try leaving a tap on hot just barely on a trickle.

It's much easier to demo tile if you just take it off with the backer board in strips.

Then just replace it all.

I know it sounds stupid but it's less mess and faster so you come out ahead in the long run.

You have no ground conductor there, but but since it is outside, you'll need a weatherproof enclosure and a GFI receptacle anyway.

GFI will take care of the grounding issue.

Haven't had any what's app spam for a few years, but I then a few months ago I get maybe one message per week to buy crypto...... Maybe it's coincidence but I think not.

This is a subfloor.

Sometimes it's easier to to demo tile with the drywall/cement board behind it as well and just replace the drywall after.

More to the OP:

Fun fact, it's usually easier to remove larger pieces of sheet rock in one go. That way you have a better chance of getting to screw it back to 2 studs, instead of having to worry about adding backing through a small hole. Plus a larger piece makes for a sturdier repair.

https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/doorframe.gif

It's part of the door frame, when it's framed during construction

Jack or king stud could be loose from bottom plate? The noise would be the wood stud moving up/down along the nails