I'll just call an electrician tomorrow to figure out this neutral issue. Is that what's causing the light fixture to not work? If so I'll do the hook up myself since that part is pretty easy

I only have three pairs. This seems like a good stopping point for me actually lol. Running a switch to a light seems pretty easy. I appreciate the help though.

Ok. So what should I do with that neutral? There's three bundles in there. Two go to a light switch/fan plate that operate on two different breakers.

https://imgur.com/a/noFRFFW

Now I'm at a loss. Gonna call in a pro now.

Everything is either 120 or zero. Someone pointed out that there is probably an open neutral upstream which is confirmed by a diagram we made with the circuit when I moved in.

Sounds like I have some work to do. Thanks I may post some more tomorrow.

Alright cool. I'll open that outlet tomorrow tomorrow and the ones upstream to figure out how to fix the neutral.

Thanks man you've been super helpful. My question is why doesn't the rest of the outlets show that open neutral on the circuit downstream? Is it because I separated the two circuits at the switch?

Is that what's causing my issue? And work back towards the main from the point where it says open neutral?

So I pulled out our map for the electric that we made. https://imgur.com/a/51ir7wO. I'm working on 28. I'm guessing that open neutral is what the plug tester read when we went around testing the outlets. I have a bad feeling lol.

Ok separated the neutrals at the box. In the off position the line black wire reads 120, the load (to the light) reads zero and the line neutral reads 120 and the load neutral reads zero. So at this point everything is zero at the lamp.

With the switch in the on position, all black wires read 120. The line (from the source) neutral reads 120 and the load neutral reads zero. So at the lamp with the switch on the neutral is zero and the hot is 120.

This is with the lamp removed and the neutral wires untwisted but the grounds and hot at the switch hooked up.

Is that something with my wiring or something hidden I can't see? Both my neutral wires on load and line are twisted together and capped. I'm using new Romex 14/2. House was built in the 70s.

Switch on, both hot and neutral reads 120 disconnected and separated at the ceiling. Switch off, the neutral reads 120 but the hot reads zero.

With the switch on both blacks show voltage. The the switch off, only the one shows 120 as the other shows 0.

At the light the neutral shows 120 with the switch off which I'm pretty sure isn't supposed to happen. I haven't checked the connected neutral wires at the box since it's capped off.

The black to ground and red to the hot wire then to the neutral wire.

https://imgur.com/a/kNP90sA

Here are pictures and some explanation. https://imgur.com/a/kNP90sA

Here it is in detail and separated. https://imgur.com/a/kNP90sA

I will. I thought that was odd as well

I purchased another fixture and light switch earlier today so I don't think that's the issue. Should the neutral at the fixture be reading 120 with the switch flipped to off?

Ok with switch in off position and wires not connected to fixture: The neutral reads 120v and the hot zero. With it in the on position both read 120v. That's the light fixture.

The hot wire from the source always reads 120v regardless. The wire at the switch going to the fixture reads zero when the switch is turned off and 120 when on. The neutral wires are capped and the grounds are spliced with a pigtail to the green screw.

Light is hanging down and connected. I initially tested it before I hung it

That's how it's hooked up. Except I have no ground screw in the light. It's a plastic new work box and a plastic fixture with a hot and neutral screw with no ground.

Though with the light switch off I still get a live wire warning with my non contact tool at the light which I thought was weird.