Dbjfdb t1_j9gso5k wrote

I’m in IT, and I see things like this and really love the ingenuity and cleverness that goes into it.

I can’t go there yet so I’ll ask here.

Do you have a way to allow someone to mark a balloons position, altitude, and date/time and have it display an (ever-widening) range of locations where it may have been launched from?


Dbjfdb t1_j6ismh0 wrote

We have a mid-1800's house with just two adults and we both work from home most of the time.

Primary family room is separate from the main house. We keep it 66 when we are using it, 54 when we are not. Heated by LP gas stove (Jotul Sebago)

Main house is 60 during the day and drops to 54 at night. Heated by heating oil and radiators. Three zones. We'll bump the heat to 65 as needed.

Bedroom's heat is managed by the main house heat but we have a 1500 watt electric heater in there and will set temp to 64 at night when we need it...most of the time we don't and it's in the mid to upper 50's.


Dbjfdb t1_iy4y6xs wrote

I am not a lawyer, this is just my experience. Some of these won't be necessary depending on you and your situation, so take it all just as things to consider.


  • The only payments you should accept are cash or a certified bank check. If bank check, bring the check to the ISSUING bank to cash it and then transfer the title to the buyer. Alternatively, check with your bank to see what their policies are on bank checks and how they might guarantee its a good check
  • If selling for cash, agree to meet the buyer at a bank or police station to finalize the sale...if you get robbed in a bank parking lot there will at least be video.
  • NO one but you handles the original title until you have payment in full
  • Don't accept payments on the car! You are not a bank. If they cannot get a bank loan there is likely a reason, and that is not your problem
  • The buyer's problems are not your problems, and your reasons for your price do not need to be disclosed. Understand and acknowledge their problems, but in the end, you want $x for the car and you are happy to sell it for that price, but cannot sell it for less than $x
  • Lower your price when you stop getting calls of people interested in it. I'd price it a bit higher than you think you'll get to start...it'll help you avoid under-pricing it. I lower it a bit every couple days until interest picks up
  • Take the plates off before they take the car. Do not let them "just take it home and I'll send them back to you". I did this once and it worked out fine, but that could have gone really badly. The buyer can go to their DMV with a signed purchase and sales agreement, which has the VIN, and get a plate.
  • You and the buyer each sign and get a purchase and sales agreement. Find an online template for your state, probably from their DMV site.
  • I like to write "As-is, with no warranty expressed, written or implied" on the P&S
  • Don't hold a car without a non-refundable deposit (cash) if you are getting multiple calls a day on it. If you are getting occasional calls a week, then that might be OK. If holding a car, set a time limit on when they need to finish the deal...a few days to a week or so. If you pull it off the market you potentially miss a sale. When receiving a deposit, give them a deposit slip that has these details.
  • Make sure the buyer is over 18. If the buyer is under 18 then sell it to their parent or legal guardian. Minors generally cannot enter into legal agreements on their own
  • See the buyer's driver's license before signing the purchase and sales and the title. This may not matter, I don't know...I've just aways asked for and confirmed they are who they say they are
  • They'll want to test drive...ask to see their driver's license and current insurance. If they are not insured then I wouldn't let them drive it...have them bring someone who is insured, or you drive and they ride. Check the name, expiration date, and address. Go with them on the test drive and set some ground rules before you go...seatbelts, keep to the speed limit, obey all traffic laws, etc. Recommend a route that'll take them on slow roads, faster ones, etc. Since this is a sportscar, be very, very wary on who wants to test the car out and be very clear about following all rules of the road.
  • Put the actual selling price on the purchase and sales agreement, not any other amount, regardless of what sob story they've given you! It is probably illegal to put a different value in...some sort of tax fraud I suspect.
  • When the person sees the car make sure the engine is cold...a warm engine is a red flag for a buyer as it may mean the car has problems starting when cold so the seller warmed it up before they got there
  • Save that purchase and sales agreement for a long time. It is proof that this car was sold to so-and-so as of a certain date and no longer your problem. Follow your state's laws on purchase and sales agreements for a car...be sure to include at a minimum the date, description of the car, "as-is", purchase price, and the VIN
  • Cancel your insurance on the car when it sells
  • Absolutely do not hold back any info about the car. If you sell a car with a problem it should be documented
  • Have all your service records to show the buyer. Ensure you redact any personal information, or keep those with you
  • Carfax report ahead of time is short money and provides some reassurance to the potential buyer
  • Avoid selling to family or close friends...a faulty part months from now could get awkward
  • When selling, if the buyer is with someone else give them some time to look it over and chat with their companions. Sometimes a person doesn't know much about cars and brings something who does, so giving them some time to chat without you standing there can help speed the process up and give them a better overall experience
  • Know what your "bottom line price" is before you negotiate. If you are listing it for $10k but will take $9.5, then that is your bottom line price. When the seller offers you $8k you can say "sorry, my partner and I agreed that $9.5 is the lowest we can go". If they say "$9.2 is the best I can do because of such-and-such", then say something like "totally understand. I'll discuss with my partner and if we can do that I'll call you. In the meantime if you change your mind, just let me know". The negotiation and dickering on price can be nerve-racking. It doesn't have to be...know your bottom line price. You don't have to give reasons why you won't take a lower price...any excuses you give will be used by the buyer to find a way to make it OK. I like to say what I wrote about my partner...its true, and why that is the price is my business. If its a bad price then the car will not sell and that's my problem.
  • Again, don't adjust your selling price because of a story. You adjust your price only when you know the car won't sell to anyone at the price you want in the timeframe you have to sell it.

Dbjfdb t1_ir6kq1v wrote

Just some thoughts from a random internet person: Everyone's got a past, best to work on evaluating people for who and what they are today.

But sometimes people can't get past your past. That is 100% THEIR problem, and in this situation, her issue seems batty potatoes to me.

Based on the story you tell here, quite frankly I see this whole exchange as a warning to you about her. If you don't address this and you both work on getting ok with acknowledging/accepting your pasts, you are never going to be able to build a future. You will never have a new female friend again, either, and you'll miss out on a lot of joy in life.

Heck, I'm looking at a group photo of our friends from a few years ago at a party, and there are three women I've slept with in it, one woman and two men that my wife slept with. All in the past, before we got together, and we are happy and trusting.