Doctor_Frasier_Crane

Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_jefazl5 wrote

Reply to Insulating angled roof rafters or laying insulation on the attic floor? by haxxer_4chan

I would assume that the HVAC unit in your attic is the furnace & vent pipes. Do you have a separate AC unit outside on the ground somewhere?

The problem with having HVAC in the article is the heat/cooling loss from improperly insulated vent pipes. So if you enclose the space with spray foam or other method on the underside of the roof sheathing, your HVAC system doesn’t have to work as hard.

https://buildingscience.com/documents/building-science-insights-newsletters/bsi-119-conditioned-unconditioned

https://buildingscience.com/documents/bareports/ba-0305-why-it-s-so-important-and-troubling-to-keep-ducts-and-equipment-in-conditioned-space/view

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Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_jee6m3t wrote

Reply to comment by me-chewbacca in Need to hang something from ceiling and unsure what lumber to use by me-chewbacca

You certainly can apply load, it’s just not intended. The trusses form triangles so the snow load and wind uplift are actually causing tension and compression along the length of that bottom chord of the truss. Either pushing or pulling along the length based on the downward or upward pressure. That’s how they can get away with using a “little” 2x4. It’s not direct downward pressure like you get on a 2x8 or 2x10 floor joist (that is just a straight across board and no diagonals) from a load standing on top of it.

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Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_jecfnpj wrote

Reply to Need to hang something from ceiling and unsure what lumber to use by me-chewbacca

That would make me nervous. Ceiling joists are usually just 2x4 trusses, maybe 2x6 at most. Not meant to carry heavy point loads and especially not in a single 500 lb weight.

Would be mildly better if it was closer to a wall than in the middle of the room.

If you must do it, don’t just place a 2x4 or even 4x4 across the top of the joists. The hole to connect to that would be difficult to seal properly.

I would build an inverted-T shape the same depth as the joist. The part between the joists is a 4x4 (or whatever height of the joists) and gets attached through the sides of the joists with proper construction screws. Then a longer piece of 2x4 is laid flat across the top of the insert and across at least 2-3 joist on either side and screwed into any wood it’s going over.

Drill a hole through the assembly into the room below. Insert proper eye-bolt (rated for 600lb or more) with a washer and nut on top to secure it.

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Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_j6eua50 wrote

Reply to How do I finish hanging the drywall on this ceiling? by CDSEChris

Normally the sheets should all fall mid-way between the floor joists since 16 & 24-inch joist spacing lines up with 4x8-foot sheets of drywall.

You can cut it back to the middle of the floor joist and screw it in. Go slow when screwing it in, or better yet, spend $5 and get a drywall dimpler bit that should prevent you from over-driving the screws.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dewalt-drywall-dimplers-3-pack-/1000112322

Buy/rent/borrow a drywall lifter if you have a lot to do, or google "how to hang drywall by yourself" and "drywall deadman". You can build a jig out of a couple of pieces of 2x4 to help hold up the sheets.

You're definitely going to need to secure a 2x4 to the left side, by the closet area so you can hang the sheet along that edge. You can't have a long edge like that unsupported.

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Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_iycmpz5 wrote

Reply to comment by more_than_just_ok in Plan to frame part of basement and have a few questions by Ad-Nauseam91

I used 12-inch wide 6-mil poly under my basement walls and wrapped it up both sides and stapled it in place. Provides separation from the floor and some minor flood protection. I can get up to 6 inches of water on the floor and still have some protection for the studs.

I also have rolled dimple flooring underlay to provide separation and airflow under the vinyl plank flooring.

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Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_it3a65q wrote

Reply to Power outlets have a faint smell. by napstur

Take a look at how they're wired... I bet they're back-stabbed. Re-do them properly using the side screw terminals. Some outlets you can extract the wire, but if not, just cut it off and replace it.

I did that to my whole house after noticing some of the often-used outlets were getting warm and smelled.

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Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_is7xgpu wrote

Reply to 10x20 Shed base materials. by EnuqieuEsur

Figure out where the runners are going to go and dig it down 4”. Fill with 3/4 crushed (no fines) 2-inches at a time and tamp it down. No need for a perimeter wood structure…you’re just digging a couple swaths of grass/dirt out maybe a foot wide…the surrounding dirt/grass should hold it in place.

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